whtcanbrwnd04u

I just had a pioneer screen installed with my shaker system, to be honest, i think it sounds worse than before. The bass doesnt hit as nice and i cant turn it up without it being very un-clear. So i want to upgrade my door speakers/subs for now and throw a sub in the trunk later... any suggestions? Thanks.




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Shadow7874

Uhh... Price range?
Not many companies make the 5x8s which come stock on our cars i believe.
I bought some pioneer 5x8s which look nice, but ive yet to install them.
I have infinity 6x9s in my accord which sound awesome without an amp.
If you feel like cutting, i would get some infinity 6x9s for the rear deck and some 6.5 components for the front doors and mount some tweeters somewhere.
Infinity and polk are my two favs for speakers. as far as bass, it depends how much you want. Kicker is reliable but kidna over hyped. I love my kicker 12" l7 and 750.1 amp, but there are way harder hitting subs out there.
Best place to get help is caraudio.com

thedrod

First off I don't know about the Pioneer.

When I installed my Alpine i thought the same thing.

The deal was, the Alpine was setup to control the Door subs as a "subwoofer."

All the subwoofer controls on the headunit directly affected the door subs. Once I figured that out, it sounded much better.

That aside, I did end up changing speakers recently. But if I could do it again, I would look into getting a 3-way component setup such as ones offered by Focal, Eclipse CDT, or Rainbow.

I would put a 6.5 in midbass where the 8in is now. Then, if you can, mount the 4inch and tweeter where the stock 5x7 is, or just mount the 4inch there and mount the tweeter elsewhere.

I ended up putting a 6.5" Kicker SSMB6 Midbass speaker in the 8in place, and an Infinity 5.25 inch componet in the door and drilling a hole for the tweeter. I am using a JL Audio 450/4 to power these. Then the sub brings in the low end. I have attached some photos of the fabricating process.

CDT
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1119

Eclipse
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=2869

Focal
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=7028

Rainbow
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=7050

CutterWolf

There is really no need to upgrade your door subs "if" you cap them for "mid bass" only. They make great mid bass speakers. Put a cap crossover on them and throw a sub in the trunk and all it a day. Change out your upper door speakers for a set of mids & tweets with crossovers and then change out your rear deck speakers to a nice set of two way or three way speakers and run them full range for fill. This will clean up your sound greatly.

thedrod

when you say "cap crossover" are you referring to a bandpass crossover? If so, I have one on my mid-bass speakers that sends them everything above 80hz and everything below 400hz.

If you do use an aftermarket amp with the stock 8" speakers. You will need to take into consideration the factory 8s have some weird ohm rating that is too low for most amps. This would require you to wire in a resistor somewhere in line. I still wish I would have done a 3-way component setup instead....not because I don't like mine but for the simplicity of it.

Also my 8s had already torn their rubber surround...and needed replacement.

whtcanbrwnd04u

Good suggestions guys,keep them coming. I really dont want to spend alot of money but i do want a decent amount of bass. Cutter i like your idea. Around how much are the rear speakers? Can you by any chance post some links? Would be MUCH appreciated.

Ive been having thoughts about the 12" Kicker L7 in a probox hooked up to the Kicker 750.1 amp... thoughts/comments?

thedrod

I personally think that rear speakers are useless in a Mustang. If you have a good front sound stage and a good subwoofer, you won't even notice the rear speakers aren't there. All they do is muddy the sound and unless you have a good signal processor to adjust for time correction I think it will be detrimental to your sound.

Many of the best Sound Quality Competitors don't use rear speakers either.

if you get too many high frequency sources in your car it will sound like an elephant defecating on a george foreman grill.

What kind of music do you listen to?

I prefer sealed subwoofer enclosures. They require more power but provide a much tighter response. I listen to a lot of rock and metal and with a typically fast bass drum you don't want a sloppy subwoofer enclosure like a ported or bandpass box. These two typically have more volume (as in loudness, and cubic feet, i.e. larger boxes) for the same power applied, but are more suited to rap, or those that can't afford 1000WRMS amps and want to get by on a 250W amp.

whtcanbrwnd04u

I listen to mostly rap/hip-hop. I don't really care about how LOUD it is but i do want it to sound good. I plan on dynamatting the whole car aswell.

Thedrod, you think its a good idea to just upgrade my door subs and speakers and call it a day? Add a sub down the road if i need it?

wicked stang

i have a pioneer flipout and all my speakers and the door subs sound awesome. speakers could be louder but they are clear.
you just have to mess with the eq settings in the headunit. make sure that you turn the bass all the way down so that your speakers dont get any bass and you can mess with the subs settings in the headunit until they sound good. i can tell you my exact eq settings if you want, just let me know.

thedrod

I think you will need a sub in the trunk regardless.

I chose to use the midbass speaker location because it was there. It is not required. I have had great sounding systems with only 2 speakers in each door, not 3.

Are you wanting to power everything off your headunit or do you plan to get an aftermarket amp for the front doors as well?

I think CutterWolf is right that the door subs aren't bad speakers. Are you sure yours are still connected? You said your system did not have as much bass as before. You should try messing with your head unit and basically put your ear right next to them to see if they are doing anything. A filter is required for aftermarket radios on these speakers because the shaker amps require 5v to turn on instead of 12v. Some lazy installers just disconnect the speakers and hope you don't notice. I did not install my head unit when I first got it, but the installer put the proper device on to allow me to use the Shaker door subs. When I did the rest of my install and pulled out the head unit I removed the filter because it was no longer needed.

If it were me and I wanted to spend the least money:

I would first determine if the factory 8s are working.
If so I would just change the 6x8 speaker and install a set of components in the doors. Lots of companies make good 6x8s with separate tweeters, and you can get adapters to fit 5.25" speakers in the 6x8 location. But then you would need a small amp to power them properly. I simple 75-80w rms x2 amp would be fine. Then do whatever you want in the trunk. The L7 with 750w would be more than enough. Let the shaker amps power the 8s.

I would buy speakers off Ebay from a retailer with high feedback. I got my infinity 50.9cs set for $120 brand new vs $249 on crutchfield.

EDIT: Also refer to my first post, and the previous post by wicked stang about the Head Unit treating the 8s as if they were subs.