Which UCA set up do you have? Need help deciding.
#1
Which UCA set up do you have? Need help deciding.
So, I changed just about everything in my rear suspension except for the UCA/3rd link. I'm using adjustable LCAs and all poly bushings (no heim joints). It's for primarily street applications with about 340 RWHP. I think its time to upgrade so my options are these (so far):
a) leave the stock UCA and install new poly bushings (Steeda or Spohn).
b) Steeda UCA (non adj.) with poly bushings.
c) J&M UCA (non-adj.) which apparently has a patented arrangement with a solid inner ball and softer outer bushing which maximizes both launch and conering characteristics. The write up on LM performance sold me so I thought I'd bounce it off the MF community.
Am I missing any good options?
What has worked well for you?
a) leave the stock UCA and install new poly bushings (Steeda or Spohn).
b) Steeda UCA (non adj.) with poly bushings.
c) J&M UCA (non-adj.) which apparently has a patented arrangement with a solid inner ball and softer outer bushing which maximizes both launch and conering characteristics. The write up on LM performance sold me so I thought I'd bounce it off the MF community.
Am I missing any good options?
What has worked well for you?
#5
If you plan on messing with the bushing attached to the rear axle, make sure you have some sort of hydraulic ram and and be mechanically inclined enough to rig something up.
My advice........go to Ford, get a NEW bushing sleeve. Press the old bushing/sleeve out. Press the new sleeve in, then install the new poly bushing. Trust me. Don't try to get the stock bushing out the the sleeve. grinding it out, burning it out, cutting it out.............all came to failure. The sleeve is a ridiculous tight press fitment. I rigged something up with a 1/2" flat plate and used 3/4" all thread and tried to pull the sleeve out. I thought the little snapping and popping sounds was the sleeve coming out.....................until I busted my hand open when the all thread ripped in half............3/4" all thread ripping in half. I highly recommend a hydraulic ram. I used a hydraulic pneumatic ram called a Tiger Tool........pushed the new sleeve in like a hot knife cutting butter......no joke. I also put a crap load of anti seize on the housing and the sleeve, in case I need to get the stupid thing out again.
My advice........go to Ford, get a NEW bushing sleeve. Press the old bushing/sleeve out. Press the new sleeve in, then install the new poly bushing. Trust me. Don't try to get the stock bushing out the the sleeve. grinding it out, burning it out, cutting it out.............all came to failure. The sleeve is a ridiculous tight press fitment. I rigged something up with a 1/2" flat plate and used 3/4" all thread and tried to pull the sleeve out. I thought the little snapping and popping sounds was the sleeve coming out.....................until I busted my hand open when the all thread ripped in half............3/4" all thread ripping in half. I highly recommend a hydraulic ram. I used a hydraulic pneumatic ram called a Tiger Tool........pushed the new sleeve in like a hot knife cutting butter......no joke. I also put a crap load of anti seize on the housing and the sleeve, in case I need to get the stupid thing out again.
#6
So, I changed just about everything in my rear suspension except for the UCA/3rd link. I'm using adjustable LCAs and all poly bushings (no heim joints). It's for primarily street applications with about 340 RWHP. I think its time to upgrade so my options are these (so far):
a) leave the stock UCA and install new poly bushings (Steeda or Spohn).
b) Steeda UCA (non adj.) with poly bushings.
c) J&M UCA (non-adj.) which apparently has a patented arrangement with a solid inner ball and softer outer bushing which maximizes both launch and conering characteristics. The write up on LM performance sold me so I thought I'd bounce it off the MF community.
Am I missing any good options?
What has worked well for you?
a) leave the stock UCA and install new poly bushings (Steeda or Spohn).
b) Steeda UCA (non adj.) with poly bushings.
c) J&M UCA (non-adj.) which apparently has a patented arrangement with a solid inner ball and softer outer bushing which maximizes both launch and conering characteristics. The write up on LM performance sold me so I thought I'd bounce it off the MF community.
Am I missing any good options?
What has worked well for you?
opt 2 nice but expensive
and opt 3 I have read many great things about them and worth a look at....do you have your car lowered? and if so how much of a drop?
something needs to be adjustable to keep your pinion angle aligned correctly...I did read about the LCA's
Last edited by mygt500; 03-19-2009 at 04:00 AM.
#7
miloman, thanks for the heads up.
myGT500, yes, I'm lowered but not much (Steeda ultralites). I corrected the pinion angle with my LCA's so I just need a "drop in" replacement for the UCA.
myGT500, yes, I'm lowered but not much (Steeda ultralites). I corrected the pinion angle with my LCA's so I just need a "drop in" replacement for the UCA.
#9
Replacing the UCA bushing on the axle housing is not an easy thing.
You can't press the old one out because you need to re-use the stock steel sleeve.
The new poly bushings that you can buy don't come with this part.
The only way to get the old rubber bushing out is to burn and drill it out!
I had the entire axle housing out of the car to do the gears anyway so I burned the old bushing out with a torch. Not fun...
Definitely go with a UCA that has a flexible bushing up front or a spherical joint. Like the SPOHN or the J&M. The UCA needs to be able to twist to allow the axle to move properly when one wheel is higher than the other, or when the body rolls.
If the J&M had been around when I did mine I'd have looked at that one...
You can't press the old one out because you need to re-use the stock steel sleeve.
The new poly bushings that you can buy don't come with this part.
The only way to get the old rubber bushing out is to burn and drill it out!
I had the entire axle housing out of the car to do the gears anyway so I burned the old bushing out with a torch. Not fun...
Definitely go with a UCA that has a flexible bushing up front or a spherical joint. Like the SPOHN or the J&M. The UCA needs to be able to twist to allow the axle to move properly when one wheel is higher than the other, or when the body rolls.
If the J&M had been around when I did mine I'd have looked at that one...
#10
Replacing the UCA bushing on the axle housing is not an easy thing.
You can't press the old one out because you need to re-use the stock steel sleeve.
The new poly bushings that you can buy don't come with this part.
The only way to get the old rubber bushing out is to burn and drill it out!
I had the entire axle housing out of the car to do the gears anyway so I burned the old bushing out with a torch. Not fun...
Definitely go with a UCA that has a flexible bushing up front or a spherical joint. Like the SPOHN or the J&M. The UCA needs to be able to twist to allow the axle to move properly when one wheel is higher than the other, or when the body rolls.
If the J&M had been around when I did mine I'd have looked at that one...
You can't press the old one out because you need to re-use the stock steel sleeve.
The new poly bushings that you can buy don't come with this part.
The only way to get the old rubber bushing out is to burn and drill it out!
I had the entire axle housing out of the car to do the gears anyway so I burned the old bushing out with a torch. Not fun...
Definitely go with a UCA that has a flexible bushing up front or a spherical joint. Like the SPOHN or the J&M. The UCA needs to be able to twist to allow the axle to move properly when one wheel is higher than the other, or when the body rolls.
If the J&M had been around when I did mine I'd have looked at that one...
Only problem with the new steel sleeve is the need for the hydraulic ram. Not sure if stuff like this can be rented. My dad borrowed the one from his shop.
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