DarkFireGT

More height = less revs per mile. You are effectively lowering (numerically) your gear ratio. In laymans terms, your car will roll through the traps reving a bit lower. You will not need to change your rev limiter.

Rubrignitz

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STANMAN

That's the way I played it in my head. But it's early here in WI, just wanted to make sure, lol!!!

Got a reply on another forum from a guy with a 1.5 inch drop that they hit at the track on a hard launch.........not what I was hoping to hear. But, I only have a 1.25, and I can set the rears to full firm so there's no squat, but again there's the traction issue. With the Nittos if I set the Tociko's to full firm on the rear my times go up, with some squat they actually go down. Maybe with more sidewall and better traction I will be able to set the rears for no squat at the track. Hahaha, suspension/traction issues FTL!

Rubrignitz

"when" I get to the track I will swap my stock rear springs back in the car along with tires and could do that swap in <20 minutes. I've swapped between my Steeda comp rear springs and HR's many times and now swap them out w/o even removing the tires. Granted they are lower than the stockers and you would have to jackstand/move one side of the axle up to put the stockers back in but it's soooo easy to do. Stock rear springs and setting the shocks soft should get maximum weight transfer and maximum tire clearance.

DarkFireGT

Full firm in the rear and full soft in the front is what will give you the best launch at the track. Also, if your rear end is centered perfectly, the tires will tuck, if you were to squat that bad. I've looked at mine closely, and if mine were to squat that bad over a bump or on launch, I'd be clear.

I run full firm in the rear at the track, and 3 from full firm on the street. I have yet to do any damage, or come even close. Granted, I don't run these at the track, but I was running a 28" tire and had no problems. I get almost 0 squat on launch.

Also, make sure that, since you have adjustable suspension components, that your pinion angle is right. If you have the stock 2 piece driveshaft, it should be -2 to -3 degrees. Everything works together, so if anything is off, it will affect your launch.

STANMAN

If you plan on running the 305/35's at the track, you won't have to change the springs, I have that tire size now and run it at the track, no issues what so ever.

STANMAN

I have an aluminum 1 piece. Funny thing about pinion angle, talking to one of the best sponsers on this site, who has drag raced for longer than most of us have been alive, and he totally poo-poos it as WAY over rated. States that it has to be WAY out of line for it to make a differnece, and you would notice it instantly if it were that far out.

Rubrignitz

I run the 305/35-18s on the street and they work great, much better handling (surprisingly w/ a DR) than the 275/35 BFG KDW2s I had and the grip is much better. I want more sidewall for dragstrip use and will probably purchase some 15/17'' for the track, most likely some big/littles along with a spring swap back to stock.

As for the pinion angle, I agree that it doesn't have to be "perfect". Ideal is 0 under full rotation or the suspension/tires will load/unload (to some degree) but I don't think it's a perfect science.

Mine was out of whack pretty bad after lowering and you will notice/hear if it's out of whack that bad.

DarkFireGT

All I'm saying is that I didn't adjust my pinion angle right away after lowering, and when you let off the gas at the top end, it got real squirrely. I had to ease off, instead of just pulling my foot off.

And like I said, everything is connected. If you want everything to work together optimally, you'll have everything adjusted correctly. That's all.

STANMAN

I hear ya brother! When the place that did all my suspension was working on my car I asked them about pinion angle, and they showed me that it was in spec (-2), and then they went into about how over rated it CAN be. It's still very important!