AmericanMuscle4.6GT

no i don't actually shift with the power on, i lift when i shift, i just shift real fast haha

my synchros should be fine, driving around 99.999999999% of the time i never have any synchro type issues, just 1 out of 20 times shifting hard to second, thats all

157dB

Adjustable UCA FTW.
A two piece driveshaft makes the lowereing effect on the pinion angle
just that much worse than a one piece driveshaft.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=77&viewfile...easurement.pdf

Stetler17

Are you guys considering the 4 degree pinion angle the difference between the rear end and tranny angle...or 4 degrees off from perpindicular (sp).

I've seen it referenced both ways in the racing world.

Thanks for any clarification.

degeze

Like others have said, it's the pinion angle.
Also from personal experience if you want an accurate angle reading, get one that is digital.

moosestang

It doesn't really matter how you define pinion angle. What matters is the operating angles of your U-joints. Read the pdf file that 157db posted and follow the steps to figure out your operating angles. No more than 3 degrees continuous and no less than .5 degrees.

degeze

+1...For a normal street car with a few suspension mods 3.0-2.0 degress is about right. If you have a lot of mods then 2.0-1.5 degrees should work. Lastly, if you have a full race setup then 1.5-1.0 degrees works.

I did plenty of research before/after buying all of my parts and these were recommended degree ranges to adjust to.

I am running a 2.0 right now and no clunking .

Rubrignitz

Degrees from the tranny angle or output shaft. Both were zero on my car in my garage. You want to get your first angle (with a one-piece shaft) from the transmission/tranny output shaft. At 4 degrees my driveline is quiet and BARKS HARD on shifts. I've been trying to get that hard bark for a long time and 4 degrees worked.

Stetler17

Thanks for the help...I have a digital left over from my circle track days so maybe I can find a set-up that works for me.