roadracer516

I built my own motors on my racebikes. I did not go by what anyone told me, I went on first hand experience. You might say that car engines are different then motorcycle engines, but both have to be broken in properly. I have heard of car engines having similar issues. Good synthetic oil is MUCH slicker then conventional oil and can hinder piston rings from seating properly. I have had it happen when a buddy put synthetic oil in my motor without my knowing after a complete rebuild. I was losing oil like crazy after I broke the motor in well on the dyno and thought I was changing out conventional oil to synthetic. ALL the oil loss I was experiencing was oil passing through the piston rings in all four cylinders.

I talked to the crew chief at Rockstar Makita Yoshimura Suzuki and he said they would NEVER break a motor in with synthetic oil. They gingerly break in on the dyno with conventional oil for two hours in intervals. We sponsor this team as we do many other factory race teams. This team has dozens of national championships under their belt, I am sure they know what they are taking about.

Take it for what its worth, if you think I am wrong, no worries, throw synthetic oil in anytime! Technology has come a long way in the 5 or six years since I built any motors, so maybe car motors are different now.

carmanwelder

These engines as far as I know it do not require a break in period. Unless you had your engine rebuilt from a shop engines now a a days come ready to go ..no break in requirement. It has been awhile since I have done a total rebuild myself and in the begining I was not sold on synthetic, for one the price, two I was old school and thought that regular oil and changes were just as good as synthetic. Sorry to rag on this thread, but its like the old saying "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" applies.

Art161

My 2007 Owner's Guide says, "Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils during the first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating."

OhioState87

I just changed my oil this past weekend. Used 6qts of Amsoil 0W-20 and the FRPP oil filter. My dipstick reads above the crosshatched portion of the stick and right below the top hole.

MELLOWYELLOW06

It was probably a bit low when u got the car. U should be OK. Just top it off and just watch it.

Goldenpony

Same here. There is no problem. Just enjoy your new ride.

Norm Peterson

I would NOT make that assumption. Not having a specified break-in procedure (minimum number of miles with specified speed and rpm limits) does not mean that the general guidelines for vehicle usage during the first couple thousand miles or so don't qualify as a "break-in" period. I'm pretty sure that there's something in the 2008 Owner's Manual about this - I know I looked this up once but I don't remember where I posted it.

You aren't breaking in flat-tappet pushrod lifters any more, but most everything else that needs to get microscopically friendly with some other part is still there, and it'll still generate more heat fresh off the dealer's lot with a temp tag in the rear window than it will 5,000 miles later.

All of the engines that I've built were assembled with file-fit rings and with all clearances checked. You don't really know what the actual clearances inside that new 4.6 are. Most of the time it may not matter, but you don't know with absolute certainty that your individual engine is a "most of the time" unit or not.


Norm

Norm Peterson

Just because I knew where to find this,


Norm