Aftermarket sub wiring?
06-07-2009, 04:12 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Henry County, Georgia
Posts: 1,636
just looking around at that amp you got. The 750.1 has a few features you should pay attention to:
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
01-15-2010, 09:48 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Henry County, Georgia
Posts: 1,636
Well I just got ariung to pulling the sub and amp from my accord this week and I'm about to order some sound deadener for the trunk so I'll probably be installing the sub in a few weeks. One more question though big I splice into the rears I'm assuming I will splice into either the left or right speaker. How will the sub act if music plays through only one side or if my balance is off? I think I currently have my balance set slightly to the right. Will that affect my sub or can I splice into both somehow? I may end up pulling the headunit from my accord to just to make it simple untill I can afford a nice touch screen...
01-16-2010, 08:44 AM
#13
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
just looking around at that amp you got. The 750.1 has a few features you should pay attention to:
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
The 750.1 will be amplifying all the distortion added by the head units
internal spearer amplifier and adding some of its own to the mix.
Not to mention ground loops and possability of frying the amps
inputs by cross wiring them to the BTL output of the stock head unit.
You are playing you expensive fire and you will get burned without the proper isolation from the speaker
leads and the RCA inputs on the amplifier. Been there done that and
have seen it happen more than I care to have.
01-16-2010, 12:58 PM
#14
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Henry County, Georgia
Posts: 1,636
And it will sound like sheit.
The 750.1 will be amplifying all the distortion added by the head units
internal spearer amplifier and adding some of its own to the mix.
Not to mention ground loops and possability of frying the amps
inputs by cross wiring them to the BTL output of the stock head unit.
You are playing you expensive fire and you will get burned without the proper isolation from the speaker
leads and the RCA inputs on the amplifier. Been there done that and
have seen it happen more than I care to have.
The 750.1 will be amplifying all the distortion added by the head units
internal spearer amplifier and adding some of its own to the mix.
Not to mention ground loops and possability of frying the amps
inputs by cross wiring them to the BTL output of the stock head unit.
You are playing you expensive fire and you will get burned without the proper isolation from the speaker
leads and the RCA inputs on the amplifier. Been there done that and
have seen it happen more than I care to have.
01-16-2010, 01:44 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
and yet another AHole talking somone out of doing something perfectly resonable. Is it the best sound? No. But its better then nothing, free, and you can do it now... Yes
157, your a *****. you always come into threads with the if your not going to do it my way then I am going to bash you till you do, or give up menatlity. Just because not everyone does things exactly how you would, does not mean it will fail. Why dont you put your thoughts in a memo and send them to the manufacturer to have them removed, because clearly you know more then Kicker.
157, your a *****. you always come into threads with the if your not going to do it my way then I am going to bash you till you do, or give up menatlity. Just because not everyone does things exactly how you would, does not mean it will fail. Why dont you put your thoughts in a memo and send them to the manufacturer to have them removed, because clearly you know more then Kicker.
01-16-2010, 01:59 PM
#16
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
I dont always do anything the same.
Block me if its that distastful to your reading needs.
Just cus its not your way does not mean its the highway.
I am the option giver. The OP will do what he wants regardless.
If he wants to do it twice, then so be it.
But it will sound like amplified distortion and
distortion is what kills a speaker, not power.
Been there, done that.
Learn from your elders or be destined to relive the disgressions...
01-16-2010, 11:32 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
your right, thousand of people dont wire there cars this way and have it sound just fine and run for years. In opposite world that is.
Also, you dont always do things the same way. You will come in and be helpfull, then if they dont take your advise exactly as given, do something like this where you tell him it will sound like **** and be full of destortion, and in the end blow his equipment.
I should not have called you a *****, I react strongly and for that I am sorry, but this forum is to help members and to talk somone out of using the stuff they have, the way the manufacture intended, and instead not do it unless they are going to spend alot more money to do it your way first, is not in anyones best interest. Not even your own unless you just look to get off on the feeling of being right.
To the op, IMO, only hold off if you do not feel like splicing into the rear speakers. I have done this on many systems and never had a sub blow.... So long as you have all your settings right, you should have ZERO problems. That said, of coarse the easiest way to do it, is to wait till you have aftermarket stereo and run your RCA, but people do it everyday the way we talked about. Good luck.
Also, you dont always do things the same way. You will come in and be helpfull, then if they dont take your advise exactly as given, do something like this where you tell him it will sound like **** and be full of destortion, and in the end blow his equipment.
I should not have called you a *****, I react strongly and for that I am sorry, but this forum is to help members and to talk somone out of using the stuff they have, the way the manufacture intended, and instead not do it unless they are going to spend alot more money to do it your way first, is not in anyones best interest. Not even your own unless you just look to get off on the feeling of being right.
To the op, IMO, only hold off if you do not feel like splicing into the rear speakers. I have done this on many systems and never had a sub blow.... So long as you have all your settings right, you should have ZERO problems. That said, of coarse the easiest way to do it, is to wait till you have aftermarket stereo and run your RCA, but people do it everyday the way we talked about. Good luck.
01-17-2010, 04:13 AM
#18
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cali
Posts: 702
ok well here is my suggestion........just tap into 2 of the speaker wires behind the headunit......run them into a basic hi/low converter and run the amp into the hi/low converter......it will work awesome i have done this on a couple cars and worked great.....oh and the remote wire can be wired into anything that is live when the key is turned like any light.
01-17-2010, 12:24 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
the point is though, he bought a really nice amp.
The amp has a sense turn on mode so there is no need to run a remote, it works like a home audio self powered sub, it turns on when a difference is sensed on the inputs (when music is being played.)
Also, the amp has a built in high low converter. With a flip of a switch he is accomplishing this for free.
Everyone is trying to talk him into spending more money to do all these things externaly, but part of the expense of a nice amp like he has, is that it has all that built in. The only thing to make sure of is that they selector for the Hi/Low on the amp is switched into the Hi before you power anything on, after that should never have a problem. And when you get your atermarket radio put in, just run your RCAs and disconects the taps on your rear speakers. Switch the amp back to Low and your ready to rock again.
The amp has a sense turn on mode so there is no need to run a remote, it works like a home audio self powered sub, it turns on when a difference is sensed on the inputs (when music is being played.)
Also, the amp has a built in high low converter. With a flip of a switch he is accomplishing this for free.
Everyone is trying to talk him into spending more money to do all these things externaly, but part of the expense of a nice amp like he has, is that it has all that built in. The only thing to make sure of is that they selector for the Hi/Low on the amp is switched into the Hi before you power anything on, after that should never have a problem. And when you get your atermarket radio put in, just run your RCAs and disconects the taps on your rear speakers. Switch the amp back to Low and your ready to rock again.