Pypes o/r H installation...wow *56K...come on in*
#12
Whoops...got myself a nice fat exhaust leak.
Is it just a matter of tightening bolts or do I have to put those damn inserts in?
I tweaked my right rotator cuff yesterday torquing all those bolts...kind of embarrassing that a leak still formed...
What can I do about this?
Is it just a matter of tightening bolts or do I have to put those damn inserts in?
I tweaked my right rotator cuff yesterday torquing all those bolts...kind of embarrassing that a leak still formed...
What can I do about this?
Last edited by East87; 06-28-2009 at 09:26 AM.
#15
Def put those inserts in rather than trying to tighten the bolts more..they can easily snap if you over-tighten them. pypes is crap quality..and theres nothing in the directions that even tells you to use the inserts or what theyre for...sad!
#16
yea I would put them in. I dont think tightening the bolts will help. That little piece gives it a better seal. Like those donut exhaust rings from older cars. Yea pypes instructions arent very good at all but jba's lt instructions were terrible as well. I think the people that write the instructions have probably never done the install.
#17
I zapped every nut with some WD40, and was able to muscle them off...my car does only have 10700 miles though...
Are they absolutely necessary?...and how would I know if I have an exhaust leak? It's not one of those "you would know..." deals is it?...because I don't hear anything except for what seems like raspy, rhythmic sputtering (from the tailpipes) under any kind of substantial throttle...Seems normal though considering I now have an o/r pipe...
Are they absolutely necessary?...and how would I know if I have an exhaust leak? It's not one of those "you would know..." deals is it?...because I don't hear anything except for what seems like raspy, rhythmic sputtering (from the tailpipes) under any kind of substantial throttle...Seems normal though considering I now have an o/r pipe...
#18
Most people weld the crossover pipe and the union with the clamp, since keeping those separate solves so particular purpose. Mine leaks from the crossover, but I'm taking it off soon and I don't wanna weld it.
#19
After all these years on messing around with cars, the only solution I know for sure, is to heat the outside pipe red hot and tightening the clamp before it cools off (not with rage please).
This will kill the gap between the two pipes, even if the outside one is too big in diameter.
This has worked for me everytime.
Another important detail is, to make sure the clamp is almost perfectly round, so pressure is applied evenly upon tightening.
For those of you that have Stainless pipes and are affraid that they will get blue from the heat, well, it's too f#cking bad!!
This will kill the gap between the two pipes, even if the outside one is too big in diameter.
This has worked for me everytime.
Another important detail is, to make sure the clamp is almost perfectly round, so pressure is applied evenly upon tightening.
For those of you that have Stainless pipes and are affraid that they will get blue from the heat, well, it's too f#cking bad!!
Last edited by pascal; 06-28-2009 at 01:46 PM.
#20
I zapped every nut with some WD40, and was able to muscle them off...my car does only have 10700 miles though...
Are they absolutely necessary?...and how would I know if I have an exhaust leak? It's not one of those "you would know..." deals is it?...because I don't hear anything except for what seems like raspy, rhythmic sputtering (from the tailpipes) under any kind of substantial throttle...Seems normal though considering I now have an o/r pipe...
Are they absolutely necessary?...and how would I know if I have an exhaust leak? It's not one of those "you would know..." deals is it?...because I don't hear anything except for what seems like raspy, rhythmic sputtering (from the tailpipes) under any kind of substantial throttle...Seems normal though considering I now have an o/r pipe...