$1700 and still can't fix a rattle?!!
07-14-2009, 07:15 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 17
$1700 and still can't fix a rattle?!!
Alright guys, so i need some help on 2 issues with my 2007 mustang gt convertible. Mind you it has the eibach lowering springs around 1.5 inches sport pro kit or whatever lol....
1) Just recently my car is starting to make a noise when going decently sized potholes or bumps. Sounds something in between air compression and a squeak, but i get the feeling it will become a full blown squeak sometime in the future. Was just looking at the TSBs, my mustang was built 03/07, so i'm assuming it would not qualifiy for the TSB 07-23-1 summarized below?
"Some 2005-2007 Mustangs 4.0L/4.6L with a build date before 2/28/2007 may exhibit a 4.0L/4.6L grunt/creak/squeak/chirp noise from the lower control arm (LCA) hydro bushing over bumps like speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads, and driveway approaches."
2) Also, when i pump my stereo system up with some strong bass I've had an annoying rattle originating from my passenger side door, specifically the plastic piece surrounding the window up/down button. If i put my finger on the piece it seems it doesn't allow it to move hence the vibrating stops.
This i showed it to the dealer a 2 weeks ago. I just wanted them to clamp it down or something but they said they had to take apart the door to figure out exactly what the issue was so they could have a report for ford. After they did that, they said they had to order a new door panel, apparently at a cost of 1700 for ford under warrant to change it. I got it changed 2 days ago, the rattle is still pretty much there. Pretty incompetent dealership if you ask me, and it almost seems like they just wanted to bill Ford a big *** bill instead of fix the issue. I went to see if another dealer can fix it for me, they told me to go back to the original dealership because if they bill ford for the same problem then its gonna cause issues with ford.
So my question is, what can i do myself to stop the rattle..can i stick anything under that plastic piece to possibly take up some tiny space and prevent the rattle?
1) Just recently my car is starting to make a noise when going decently sized potholes or bumps. Sounds something in between air compression and a squeak, but i get the feeling it will become a full blown squeak sometime in the future. Was just looking at the TSBs, my mustang was built 03/07, so i'm assuming it would not qualifiy for the TSB 07-23-1 summarized below?
"Some 2005-2007 Mustangs 4.0L/4.6L with a build date before 2/28/2007 may exhibit a 4.0L/4.6L grunt/creak/squeak/chirp noise from the lower control arm (LCA) hydro bushing over bumps like speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads, and driveway approaches."
2) Also, when i pump my stereo system up with some strong bass I've had an annoying rattle originating from my passenger side door, specifically the plastic piece surrounding the window up/down button. If i put my finger on the piece it seems it doesn't allow it to move hence the vibrating stops.
This i showed it to the dealer a 2 weeks ago. I just wanted them to clamp it down or something but they said they had to take apart the door to figure out exactly what the issue was so they could have a report for ford. After they did that, they said they had to order a new door panel, apparently at a cost of 1700 for ford under warrant to change it. I got it changed 2 days ago, the rattle is still pretty much there. Pretty incompetent dealership if you ask me, and it almost seems like they just wanted to bill Ford a big *** bill instead of fix the issue. I went to see if another dealer can fix it for me, they told me to go back to the original dealership because if they bill ford for the same problem then its gonna cause issues with ford.
So my question is, what can i do myself to stop the rattle..can i stick anything under that plastic piece to possibly take up some tiny space and prevent the rattle?
07-14-2009, 07:22 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 17
Sorry, 1 more issue guys, I forgot.
This mainly occurs when i switch from 1st to 2nd gear and sometimes though not nearly as much from 2nd to 3rd.. i hear a one time metal on metal clunk noise that sounds like its originating from under the car... I generally hear this most often when the car is cold...but this does occur as well when its been running for a while.. i hear it here and there... is this something i should worry about?
I was reading a post by jetking69 not sure if it relates to this problem
*****************
I just got my car back from service, and i had complained about an odd light clanging noise i occasionally get from under the car in the mornings. Long story short, they couldn't figure it out but they removed the driveshaft and reinstalled it in really tight to see if it would help; i talked to the mechanic and he said he torqued all the bolts down real good and used locktite.
The second i drove off the lot i noticed the entire driveline felt ridiculously smoother and tighter. The difference in the 1-2 shift is like night and day. So basically, this entire time all my car needed was a little tightening up.
Thought this might be interesting to all you guys who figured the clunkiness was just the way the car is.
*************************
any advice would be of great help
thanks alot in advance!!!
This mainly occurs when i switch from 1st to 2nd gear and sometimes though not nearly as much from 2nd to 3rd.. i hear a one time metal on metal clunk noise that sounds like its originating from under the car... I generally hear this most often when the car is cold...but this does occur as well when its been running for a while.. i hear it here and there... is this something i should worry about?
I was reading a post by jetking69 not sure if it relates to this problem
*****************
I just got my car back from service, and i had complained about an odd light clanging noise i occasionally get from under the car in the mornings. Long story short, they couldn't figure it out but they removed the driveshaft and reinstalled it in really tight to see if it would help; i talked to the mechanic and he said he torqued all the bolts down real good and used locktite.
The second i drove off the lot i noticed the entire driveline felt ridiculously smoother and tighter. The difference in the 1-2 shift is like night and day. So basically, this entire time all my car needed was a little tightening up.
Thought this might be interesting to all you guys who figured the clunkiness was just the way the car is.
*************************
any advice would be of great help
thanks alot in advance!!!
07-14-2009, 07:42 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,599
wow, thank you so much for the driveshaft tightening idea. I have that clunk soooooooooooo bad in my car and i was wondering if that would help.
I also seemed to have a rattle in my door panel, but I took my door panel off and covered it in sound deadener and it went away. this also increased the bass output from the speakers greatly. I know you think it is coming from the window switch, but i would also look at the piece of plastic behind the door handle. If you hold the door handle open, look behind it and there is a plastic piece behind it that just covers a screw that you need to remove to take the panel off. I would try either putting sound deadener on the back of this piece, or even just layer a couple pieces of duct tape. Basically you are increasing mass which decreases the reasonant frequency of the piece and you might not hear it.
I think your hydraulic noise might possibly be your front struts. See if you take the speed bumps slowly if it still happens. If not, then its just your dampers in your struts being compressed too quickly by the speed bumps. I dont think you can solve this.
I also seemed to have a rattle in my door panel, but I took my door panel off and covered it in sound deadener and it went away. this also increased the bass output from the speakers greatly. I know you think it is coming from the window switch, but i would also look at the piece of plastic behind the door handle. If you hold the door handle open, look behind it and there is a plastic piece behind it that just covers a screw that you need to remove to take the panel off. I would try either putting sound deadener on the back of this piece, or even just layer a couple pieces of duct tape. Basically you are increasing mass which decreases the reasonant frequency of the piece and you might not hear it.
I think your hydraulic noise might possibly be your front struts. See if you take the speed bumps slowly if it still happens. If not, then its just your dampers in your struts being compressed too quickly by the speed bumps. I dont think you can solve this.
07-14-2009, 08:21 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,914
Alright guys, so i need some help on 2 issues with my 2007 mustang gt convertible. Mind you it has the eibach lowering springs around 1.5 inches sport pro kit or whatever lol....
1) Just recently my car is starting to make a noise when going decently sized potholes or bumps. Sounds something in between air compression and a squeak, but i get the feeling it will become a full blown squeak sometime in the future. Was just looking at the TSBs, my mustang was built 03/07, so i'm assuming it would not qualifiy for the TSB 07-23-1 summarized below?
"Some 2005-2007 Mustangs 4.0L/4.6L with a build date before 2/28/2007 may exhibit a 4.0L/4.6L grunt/creak/squeak/chirp noise from the lower control arm (LCA) hydro bushing over bumps like speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads, and driveway approaches."
2) Also, when i pump my stereo system up with some strong bass I've had an annoying rattle originating from my passenger side door, specifically the plastic piece surrounding the window up/down button. If i put my finger on the piece it seems it doesn't allow it to move hence the vibrating stops.
This i showed it to the dealer a 2 weeks ago. I just wanted them to clamp it down or something but they said they had to take apart the door to figure out exactly what the issue was so they could have a report for ford. After they did that, they said they had to order a new door panel, apparently at a cost of 1700 for ford under warrant to change it. I got it changed 2 days ago, the rattle is still pretty much there. Pretty incompetent dealership if you ask me, and it almost seems like they just wanted to bill Ford a big *** bill instead of fix the issue. I went to see if another dealer can fix it for me, they told me to go back to the original dealership because if they bill ford for the same problem then its gonna cause issues with ford.
So my question is, what can i do myself to stop the rattle..can i stick anything under that plastic piece to possibly take up some tiny space and prevent the rattle?
1) Just recently my car is starting to make a noise when going decently sized potholes or bumps. Sounds something in between air compression and a squeak, but i get the feeling it will become a full blown squeak sometime in the future. Was just looking at the TSBs, my mustang was built 03/07, so i'm assuming it would not qualifiy for the TSB 07-23-1 summarized below?
"Some 2005-2007 Mustangs 4.0L/4.6L with a build date before 2/28/2007 may exhibit a 4.0L/4.6L grunt/creak/squeak/chirp noise from the lower control arm (LCA) hydro bushing over bumps like speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads, and driveway approaches."
2) Also, when i pump my stereo system up with some strong bass I've had an annoying rattle originating from my passenger side door, specifically the plastic piece surrounding the window up/down button. If i put my finger on the piece it seems it doesn't allow it to move hence the vibrating stops.
This i showed it to the dealer a 2 weeks ago. I just wanted them to clamp it down or something but they said they had to take apart the door to figure out exactly what the issue was so they could have a report for ford. After they did that, they said they had to order a new door panel, apparently at a cost of 1700 for ford under warrant to change it. I got it changed 2 days ago, the rattle is still pretty much there. Pretty incompetent dealership if you ask me, and it almost seems like they just wanted to bill Ford a big *** bill instead of fix the issue. I went to see if another dealer can fix it for me, they told me to go back to the original dealership because if they bill ford for the same problem then its gonna cause issues with ford.
So my question is, what can i do myself to stop the rattle..can i stick anything under that plastic piece to possibly take up some tiny space and prevent the rattle?
07-14-2009, 08:33 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 390
Check with Eibach,
Recall 06E089000.
CERTAIN AFTERMARKET EIBACH BRANDED FRONT STRUTS ONLY, PART NO. 35101.8001, AND EIBACH BRANDED FRONT STRUTS AS SUSPENSION KITS, PART NOS. 35101.840, 35101.680, 35101.780, 35100.680, 35100.780, 4.10135.680, AND 4.10035.780, SOLD FOR USE ON 2005 THROUGH 2007 FORD MUSTANG VEHICLES. THE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR ATTACHMENT BRACKET ON THE FRONT STRUT CAN SEPARATE FROM THE STRUT HOUSING DUE TO INCONSISTENT WELDING. THIS COULD RESULT IN A CLUNKING NOISE AND OR POOR HANDLING IN EXTREME OR EMERGENCY MANEUVERS.
Consequence of Defect:
IF THE BROKEN BRACKET CONTACTS THE TIRE, SIDEWALL DAMAGE CAN OCCUR, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.
Corrective Action:
EIBACH WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER TO PROVIDE NEW STRUTS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON DECEMBER 1, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT EIBACH AT 951-256-8300.
Recall 06E089000.
CERTAIN AFTERMARKET EIBACH BRANDED FRONT STRUTS ONLY, PART NO. 35101.8001, AND EIBACH BRANDED FRONT STRUTS AS SUSPENSION KITS, PART NOS. 35101.840, 35101.680, 35101.780, 35100.680, 35100.780, 4.10135.680, AND 4.10035.780, SOLD FOR USE ON 2005 THROUGH 2007 FORD MUSTANG VEHICLES. THE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR ATTACHMENT BRACKET ON THE FRONT STRUT CAN SEPARATE FROM THE STRUT HOUSING DUE TO INCONSISTENT WELDING. THIS COULD RESULT IN A CLUNKING NOISE AND OR POOR HANDLING IN EXTREME OR EMERGENCY MANEUVERS.
Consequence of Defect:
IF THE BROKEN BRACKET CONTACTS THE TIRE, SIDEWALL DAMAGE CAN OCCUR, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.
Corrective Action:
EIBACH WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER TO PROVIDE NEW STRUTS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON DECEMBER 1, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT EIBACH AT 951-256-8300.
07-15-2009, 05:31 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 17
I have a question about removing the window control switch housing, i've searched it but am still a bit confused..
does it just pop off?
i have some butyl tape i think it might work if i just put a piece under it....
does it just pop off?
i have some butyl tape i think it might work if i just put a piece under it....
07-17-2009, 10:46 AM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 305
Posts: 403
i read a thread in one of the forums( cant remember witch one.but the mirror rattle is a screw that comes loose.i have the same rattle in the mirror but i havent had time to get to it.
abe86 is your car auto or manual?i have that same noise when shiffting between 2 and 3.
i thought was an exhaust hitting something but ill have to look into the shaft.
abe86 is your car auto or manual?i have that same noise when shiffting between 2 and 3.
i thought was an exhaust hitting something but ill have to look into the shaft.
