WeinerDog

That would be cool but a button is pretty simple. You might be interested in this thread. Works great.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2010...tallation.html

cidsamuth

Okay, for you dealership defenders, listen to this:

I have Ford Racing Performance Parts 4.10 gears in my car, professionally installed.

The car is missing under light throttle when cold (we're talking only the first 30 seconds after the cold startup). Note, that's light throttle, letting the RPMs rise slowly. This happens with the stock tune and with a performance tune.

So, I installed the original stock tune (so the speedo is now off) and took it to the dealership. They just called and claim that the gears make the car rev up so fast that they are confusing the computer. They state it cannot be fixed unless I put the stock gears back in.

Do you believe this crap?

wilkinda

That sucks. but I don't have such problems when I take my car to my dealer. You seem to be in the minority with this issue as many here have installed after-market gears and not having this issue. Hopefully others with this same mod will chime in and try to help ya out. Possibly....try starting a new thread in the 2010-2011 Technical section on the issue

cidsamuth

I just got back from the dealer, and they did update the calibration on the PCM -- it might have fixed it, but I won't know for sure until tomorrow morning. Much more to that story, but I will put it in another thread (as you suggested).

But, as it relates to the problems with 2010s and whether the dealers can fix them: The mechanic was a descent guy, but even he admitted to swinging in the dark on this one. He seemed competent enough (and not deserving the "grease monkey" label I used in an earlier post), but the bottom line was the problem was beyond his fix.

Now, when I called Tillman Speed, they had quite the grip on things and deduced the cold air/fuel tables were off. If the computer recal that the dealer did fixes it, then we know that was correct. But, again, I'll give details about that in another post.

cidsamuth

UPDATE: I just drove the car "cold," and the problem is still there. I'm very frustrated.

I have a Tillman tuner coming, so I guess I'll see if it helps. I am not optimistic, though. I'm convinced there is a "mechanical" issue somewhere that needs addressed.

Holl0sky

Hello! I need some tech advise... just bought a 2010 mustang, interior lights go out when headlights are on.... can use the dimmer but doesnt get bright enough. Dealer says its suppose to be that way? they started comming on then off..

Holl0sky

just bought a 2010 mustang, interior lights go out when headlights are on.... can use the dimmer but doesnt get bright enough. Dealer says its suppose to be that way? they started comming on then off..

conejo172

[QUOTE=v6motorheadftop;6877043]I'm getting squeaking noises on the startup(sounds like a pulley is causing the belt to screech)

I noticed this on mine too, however very infrequent. Have noticed a constant whistle coming from the area of the alternator and tensioner...but once again not all the time and of course not at the dealer. They want me to leave it there the whole day running until the tech hears it. I think I will wait until it happens every time, so not to waste gas at the dealership.

dmhines

New Tranny installed at 700 miles due to bearing howl in 4th gear ....

ATXjulie

Car shut off while driving on the highway 3 yrs ago. Coasted to safety and 3 days later I found a tiny piece of leaf in the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with maf cleaner, car started again but runs rough since. Other issues & repairs since:


*Purge solenoid valve (2017)
*EVAP canister (2017)
*EGR Valve (2017)
2- batteries (2016 & 2019)
Brake pads (2019)
Rotators (2019)
*O2 sensors (2019)
Air filter (2018)
Thermostat & housing (replaced twice now since late 2017 & 2019, first one the gasket at the base melted)
Wiper blades
Tires
Drive belt (2019)
Idler pulley (2019)
•A/C flushed, dye tested & recharged (2017, they found no issues yet a/c would blow hot and then cold sometimes, now only blows hot and a/c not turning) note: immediately after changing out the drive belt & idler pulley the a/c blew ice cold for 10 mins, now only blows hot and clutch doesn’t engage after driving it mins afterwards)
•fuses #25, relay for blower motor #51 (2018)
•clicking noise in dash during start up
•Check fuel fill inlet light on & off the past few months now


*all have been replaced but still throwing check engine light codes