Tylus

I was only being slightly mischevious.

Ran her up to about 3,500 RPM and let the clutch out. Didn't dump it, nor slip. Just ran it out like normal.


And the car responded like a Fire Snorting Bull. I guess it didn't help that I gave it more gas ...but now I've got bits of rubber on the rear fascia I have to clean up.


Is there any solution besides new rubber or a lower RPM start?I'm all about having fun like this...but I'm wondering how some of you guys are launching your cars? Granted track conditions are vastly different from the street...but still, some similarities should exist I'd think.

desslok40

Replace lower control arms (stock are junk), you can also install lower control arm relocation brackets, replace upper control arm (adj.) and mount (they are junk).

Ultimately if you want to get serious at track get drag radials, slicks......

Added bonus with LCA/UCA swap you get rid of wheel hop around corners and over bumps !!! lol

Tylus

I'm not after a track car...but I do need to be able to lay down the traction when needed

I plan on running a RoushCharger @ 8psi this time next year. So I guess I've got to do a few more upgrades than the planned clutch.

I'll add those adj. control arms for the rear, and the new front control arms to the list. I've already been victim of the hippity/hoppity feeling on corners and bumps


it gets expensive when you mess with these puppies doesn't it?

Norm Peterson

If you didn't get wheel hop, replacing the LCAs won't improve things much at all. Actually, there is nothing wrong with the arms themselves at stockish power levels - it's the OE rubber bushings in them that let bad things like wheel hop happen. It's easy to blame the whole arm plus its bushings for what the bushings allow to happen, but it's best to know exactly what is to blame.

LCA relocating brackets will work to quiet the immediate wheelspin. They don't add "weight transfer" so much as they make it happen more quickly, which is kind of what you need here.

You need better rubber. No matter what you do to the suspension, traction limits are still dictated by the tires.

And you need to teach yourself something called "throttle modulation". The skinny pedal on the right is not like a light switch that's either 'on' or 'off' with nothing in between. Use just enough throttle to keep a TINY bit of wheel slip going (note that slip does not equal freely spinning tires here, just a little less than completely stuck down). For a dragstrip-style launch being as brutal as it is, you need to be delicate about your throttle control for best results.


Norm

S281 E

Just keep playing with the throttle and clutch. Just have to practice and find that median between the two.

Nuke

+1 on the stock BFG KDW's being garbage. With my CAI & tune, I'd break free way too often. A set of Goodyear Eagle F1's in 275/40/18 made a world of difference for me and since I'm not PLANNING on going FI (and I don't take her to the track), that was all I needed.

JDWalton

I noticed a fair amount of gain from when I did the UCA, LCA, and Panhard. The panhard is only really important for cornering AND the fact that as you add wider tires in the rear, you will want to center the rear end as much as you can to get clearance from the inside of the fender well. Also, the LCA's I got were adjustable so you can make sure you get your pinion angle right. They also had one end with a spherical bearing. A little less forgiving but even less flex on launch.

Even with 285s in the back and Eagle F1 Supercars, the off the line straight line traction is really hard. The only reason I don't have drag radials on the back is I love to blast down windy roads and didn't want to make the car straight line only.

You can try a different style launch. Try going at your normal 3500, side step the clutch but DO NOT give it any more gas. you want to play with your RPMs to find what one gives your a squealing launch but not a spinning launch. Anyway, hold the throttle in that position until the squealing stops, like 2 seconds or so, then immediately switch to 2nd gear and get on it. Your goal is to gain the off the line punch of 1st gear while limiting spin, then getting a long controlled pull in 2nd. See how it works for you. Its not for everyone.

Riptide

IMO 3500 is a bit high on the revs in the first place. You're really going to have to toast it if you don't want any spin.

SpeedingBullitt

I would try 3000 hole shot until i knew my cars handeling and my own skills at handeling that amount of power. After your comfortable with that and you can pull it off the way you want(controled)try higher rpms. If anything its going to be a learning process.

Tylus

that is exactly what I want. I want controlled max power for moving forward when i want to play

it is stupid easy to just roast these tires. It can do it without even trying....and since I am going to FI, it will get worse.



I appreciate the info/help guys. here is my definate list for now to help combat the issue, and prevent it from getting worse when blower is addedremoving my Trac Pack and putting an actual spare in the trunk. not a mod really, but the extra 50 (ish) lbs will help get some more traction...and keep the gas tank sorta full. rear end is sorta light like a Pickup right now without a spare tire