So you want to install a Roush shifter knob...
09-10-2009, 07:29 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 533
So you want to install a Roush shifter ****...
On a stock shifter...
Sounds pretty simple right? If you have an aftermarket shifter, yes. Stock shifter... it gets interesting. Especially with no instructions. But thats the fun part right?...
If you are like me you have your new mustang five speed and you look down and touch the **** and you go "meh, its kind of boring". Its a carry over from last year, but I think it might be mounted differently (at least thats what i gathered from reading other posts).
I heard horror stories about removed ***** and the hulk strength it took. Mine came right off, with little effort.
Here is what the stock shifter looks like. My interior is the same thing as in the picture.
Unscrewed the **** and this is the bottom of it. I think last gen had a ring that recessed into this notch and held the boot. Not the case with the current install.
The **** seats in this "cup". you can see that there is a black plastic ring on the interior. The boot comes over the lip and folds into the cupped area and the plastic ring holds it along with some light adhesive.
The black piece that comes with the **** is on the left, the stock cup is on the right. This was after i pulled the ring out with a 90 pick.
Stock cup on the left and the inner plastic retaining ring on the right.
Here is the boot without the inner ring or plastic cup.
Now there is really no instructions. I removed that cup because when i sat that Roush supplied black spacer in with the wider part at the bottom, the **** bottomed out and there was a gap between the top of it and the jam nut. Not on my watch... So, I removed all the pieces and placed tape around the shifter arm. When i reinstalled the stock cup, then placed the black spacer, there was no gap after tightening the **** and nut due to the tape resisting the spacer from going any lower on the shaft. Bingo.
I pulled off the ****, nut, and spacer. I then tucked the boot back over the cup and pushed the retaining ring in. I put back in the spacer, wide end down, and then reinstalled the ****.
This is to tide me over till I decide on a short throw and shifter arm.
Here is the finished product.
Seems odd to make a write up for a shifter ****, but I wish there something when I was doing it because of the lack of instructions. There are obviously other ways of doing this. This seemed the quickest and easiest to hold me over. Besides, who doesn't like pictures of car parts?
Sounds pretty simple right? If you have an aftermarket shifter, yes. Stock shifter... it gets interesting. Especially with no instructions. But thats the fun part right?...
If you are like me you have your new mustang five speed and you look down and touch the **** and you go "meh, its kind of boring". Its a carry over from last year, but I think it might be mounted differently (at least thats what i gathered from reading other posts).
I heard horror stories about removed ***** and the hulk strength it took. Mine came right off, with little effort.
Here is what the stock shifter looks like. My interior is the same thing as in the picture.
Unscrewed the **** and this is the bottom of it. I think last gen had a ring that recessed into this notch and held the boot. Not the case with the current install.
The **** seats in this "cup". you can see that there is a black plastic ring on the interior. The boot comes over the lip and folds into the cupped area and the plastic ring holds it along with some light adhesive.
The black piece that comes with the **** is on the left, the stock cup is on the right. This was after i pulled the ring out with a 90 pick.
Stock cup on the left and the inner plastic retaining ring on the right.
Here is the boot without the inner ring or plastic cup.
Now there is really no instructions. I removed that cup because when i sat that Roush supplied black spacer in with the wider part at the bottom, the **** bottomed out and there was a gap between the top of it and the jam nut. Not on my watch... So, I removed all the pieces and placed tape around the shifter arm. When i reinstalled the stock cup, then placed the black spacer, there was no gap after tightening the **** and nut due to the tape resisting the spacer from going any lower on the shaft. Bingo.
I pulled off the ****, nut, and spacer. I then tucked the boot back over the cup and pushed the retaining ring in. I put back in the spacer, wide end down, and then reinstalled the ****.
This is to tide me over till I decide on a short throw and shifter arm.
Here is the finished product.
Seems odd to make a write up for a shifter ****, but I wish there something when I was doing it because of the lack of instructions. There are obviously other ways of doing this. This seemed the quickest and easiest to hold me over. Besides, who doesn't like pictures of car parts?
09-10-2009, 07:39 PM
#2
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ontario (Canada)
Posts: 31
Thanks Xcelsius,
I was planing to do the same and this helps for sure. ( I am still waiting for
my GT ...)
Now if someone tells me how to remove this Microsoft plate next to the shifter (I am a no Microsoft person, and this will be the first thing I have to remove from the car) I would be very happy!
I was planing to do the same and this helps for sure. ( I am still waiting for
my GT ...)
Now if someone tells me how to remove this Microsoft plate next to the shifter (I am a no Microsoft person, and this will be the first thing I have to remove from the car) I would be very happy!
Last edited by sterling_gray; 09-10-2009 at 07:41 PM.
09-10-2009, 09:57 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 533
umm....that is what it is...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=792
do you mean without a logo?
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=792
do you mean without a logo?
09-10-2009, 11:10 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: KS
Posts: 167
I replaced my shift **** with a Chicago Bears Billiard Ball. I drilled out the ball and used a tap bit to thread it. I didnt take the "cup" out and I left the "cup" in with the boot. Then, this is going to sound odd, but I took a 35mm film canister (the diameter of the opening fits perfectly into the cup) and used it as a spacer between the boot/cup and the billiard ball shift **** once I screwed it on. Additionally, you have a nice thick transition from the boot to ****, not a thin stalk and you dont have the nut on the bottom of your shift ****.
09-11-2009, 06:46 AM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 533
09-11-2009, 09:40 AM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 329
Looks good. I have the same ****.
I installed the same shift ball on my car and was able to install it without cutting up the stock shift boot. All you need is something to fill the space left between the plastic cup built into the shift boot and the bottom of the black aluminum retainer piece that comes with the ****. I used 3 nylon washers from Lowes that had a big enough hole to fit over the stock shift lever. Put these washers over the lever in the plastic cup. Set the black retainer piece on the washers to fill the gap. When you put the lock nut and **** on the lever it will all fit together tightly and no rattles or gaps.
I have since switched to the Roush short shift kit and the longer Roush aluminum billet shift lever.
I installed the same shift ball on my car and was able to install it without cutting up the stock shift boot. All you need is something to fill the space left between the plastic cup built into the shift boot and the bottom of the black aluminum retainer piece that comes with the ****. I used 3 nylon washers from Lowes that had a big enough hole to fit over the stock shift lever. Put these washers over the lever in the plastic cup. Set the black retainer piece on the washers to fill the gap. When you put the lock nut and **** on the lever it will all fit together tightly and no rattles or gaps.
I have since switched to the Roush short shift kit and the longer Roush aluminum billet shift lever.