"Break-in" Period
09-14-2009, 09:27 PM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 402
I use Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend with a FL820S filter (4.6L V8). It's Ford Spec for that engine, and what you'll get if you go to the dealership. Call me plain if you must.
On the upside, that oil does come in 5-qt jugs for $16.99 at the AutoZone in my area, and the FL820S filter is $3.50. Neither were on sale at the time.
And for those who are interested, the Motorcraft FL820S filters appear to be from the Purolator family, which also includes Bosch, ProLine, and a few others. See http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html for more info.
On the upside, that oil does come in 5-qt jugs for $16.99 at the AutoZone in my area, and the FL820S filter is $3.50. Neither were on sale at the time.
And for those who are interested, the Motorcraft FL820S filters appear to be from the Purolator family, which also includes Bosch, ProLine, and a few others. See http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html for more info.
And apologies to the forum for going off topic ("Break-in" Period) in this thread.
09-16-2009, 08:36 PM
#22
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 278
@10GTPony: If you want more info on changing the oil, including removing the lower engine cover and getting at the filter (the drain plug is at the back of the pan, easily accessible), check out https://mustangforums.com/forum/6492576-post19.html
With pictures!
With pictures!
09-16-2009, 09:01 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 402
@10GTPony: If you want more info on changing the oil, including removing the lower engine cover and getting at the filter (the drain plug is at the back of the pan, easily accessible), check out https://mustangforums.com/forum/6492576-post19.html
With pictures!
With pictures!
Sure, I'm a DIY oil changing type of guy with all previous rides, but this looks like some serious work. (Serious as in "pain in the **** work", not as in serious overly complicated.)
Aye carumba.
What happened to the days of a "slide under your car" simple oil filter wrench and drain plug socket wrench 30 minute job? Though I did have to ramp my 3000GT to change its oil (dang thing was so low to the ground), it wasn't much beyond that.
Maybe worth it just to take it in to the dealer... 4 paid oil changes gets me 1 free. Then again, that takes away from the DIY part, which keeps me in touch with what/who touches my vehicle.
T.Y. again, FordEngineer
09-16-2009, 09:21 PM
#24
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 278
No prob. Make sure you see https://mustangforums.com/forum/6385861-post12.html if you want more of the skinny from that first (admittedly pain in the @#&!% oil change). But once you do it once, you'll get into the groove. The only real 'extra' step is getting that lower engine cover off. And that's just four 7/32 bolts. Not too bad.
Just BE CAREFUL with ramps--see the link above for why my Rhino Ramps don't jive with my front fascia. I just use my jack/jack stands + p-brake, with some wooden cribbing/chocks to be safe. (See picture 1 for where to lift the front end from--this is just behind the front wheel-driver's side in this case. It's the OEM service manual indicated jack point.) With as low as these cars are, just 'sliding under' them isn't an option. It's even close on my Explorer. I can just barely make it, but usually lift the front end a smidgen anyway. Picture 2 shows the car after lifting the front end and removing the lower engine cover. Plenty of room to work. (The oil pan is in the approximate center of the picture, with the faint 'X' on it. The 5/8 drain plug is on the back, facing the rear of the vehicle). Picture 3 better shows the hoses and lines below the filter, and Picture 4 shows the 'tight squeeze' it is to get in there with a band-style filter wrench. A ratcheting style is completely out of the question.
See the oil board for more info, as well. I don't hang out there as much as I do on this board, but there's some good discussion over there on this stuff as well (though not '10 centric)
Just BE CAREFUL with ramps--see the link above for why my Rhino Ramps don't jive with my front fascia. I just use my jack/jack stands + p-brake, with some wooden cribbing/chocks to be safe. (See picture 1 for where to lift the front end from--this is just behind the front wheel-driver's side in this case. It's the OEM service manual indicated jack point.) With as low as these cars are, just 'sliding under' them isn't an option. It's even close on my Explorer. I can just barely make it, but usually lift the front end a smidgen anyway. Picture 2 shows the car after lifting the front end and removing the lower engine cover. Plenty of room to work. (The oil pan is in the approximate center of the picture, with the faint 'X' on it. The 5/8 drain plug is on the back, facing the rear of the vehicle). Picture 3 better shows the hoses and lines below the filter, and Picture 4 shows the 'tight squeeze' it is to get in there with a band-style filter wrench. A ratcheting style is completely out of the question.
See the oil board for more info, as well. I don't hang out there as much as I do on this board, but there's some good discussion over there on this stuff as well (though not '10 centric)
Last edited by FordEngineer; 09-16-2009 at 09:34 PM. Reason: I can't spell.
09-16-2009, 10:26 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 402
Just BE CAREFUL with ramps--see the link above for why my Rhino Ramps don't jive with my front fascia. I just use my jack/jack stands + p-brake, with some wooden cribbing/chocks to be safe. (See picture 1 for where to lift the front end from--this is just behind the front wheel-driver's side in this case. It's the OEM service manual indicated jack point.) With as low as these cars are, just 'sliding under' them isn't an option. It's even close on my Explorer. I can just barely make it, but usually lift the front end a smidgen anyway. Picture 2 shows the car after lifting the front end and removing the lower engine cover. Plenty of room to work. (The oil pan is in the approximate center of the picture, with the faint 'X' on it. The 5/8 drain plug is on the back, facing the rear of the vehicle). Picture 3 better shows the hoses and lines below the filter, and Picture 4 shows the 'tight squeeze' it is to get in there with a band-style filter wrench. A ratcheting style is completely out of the question.
Additionally, I'd have to get a band wrench for the oil filter (I have the large socket "cup" wrench, which -- as you described -- just won't cut it here.)
I do have a microTorque wrench, so I can properly tighten everything to factory specs (although I wouldn't be able to use it for the oil filter, as I had in the past -- but that's not a big problem -- just about a 1/4 turn past contact, I think?)
Wonder why the oil filter (from the factory) was installed so tight? I doubt they oiled the gasket (adds time to assembly?), but overtighening the filter is just plain unnecessary.
09-16-2009, 10:45 PM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: IN
Posts: 168
You don't need a wrench to put a filter back on, just hand tighten it with all your might. I just use the oil that is already on the surface to lube the gasket. The factory doesn't lube the gasket and must use a machine to tighten the filter, that sucker is way to tight!
09-17-2009, 09:52 PM
#28
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 402
I ask because with my previous ride (3000GT), the factory OEM manual actually specified a torque specification when tightening it.
Then again, if you can't get a torque wrench up into these 2010 GT models, it's all a moot point. (I've never seen a band wrench with a torque meter on it anyway.)
09-18-2009, 07:51 AM
#29
2010 Section Moderator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lithia, FL
Posts: 3,328
I just simply used the owner's manual criteria for break-in. Seemed easy enough to me.
Ford does in fact sell a full synthetic oil. I changed mine at 3K miles and used the Ford filter and full synthetic oil
Ford does in fact sell a full synthetic oil. I changed mine at 3K miles and used the Ford filter and full synthetic oil
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