Emmisions inspection FAIL
10-14-2009, 04:27 PM
#21
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 149
I just went through this over the last month here in Texas and finally passed yesterday. I went back 4 times, but the place only charged me the very first time I went and failed.
I have read a ton on this. I was only "Not Ready" on the Catalyst and Evap. I run a BamaChips 93 Race tune. My problem is I am in the middle of switching to LT's and sold my mid pipe to a buddy and in the process of needing an inspection I decided to put the stock h-pipe back on. The problem was I disconnected the battery too. Everytime you disconnect the battery or install a tune it resets all the monitors and you have to get them back to the "Ready" state. From what I saw they all go back to ready state quickly except for the Catalyst and Evap.
To get mine to pass I only needed to get the Evap to be in a ready state. I followed the instructions found here:
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
From my experience not everythign in this document is 100% required, but it appears you need to do the following for sure: IAT (intake air temperature) has to be between 40 and 100 degrees or it wont set (this is a problem in extreme summer and winter);have the fuel tank between 1/2 to 3/4 full; start the car and let it idle for 15 seconds; drive it a bit to warm up; get on a straight stretch of highway and put the cruise control on 55 and make sure you drive that speed for 10 minutes (you can't go below 40 or above 65 mph during this time or it won't work); go home and park your car for 6 hours and next time you start it the EVAP will be reset.
You can read all about it at that link, but that is a brief synopsis for what worked for me.
It is a real PITA and I was getting annoyed and antsy at wanting to install my LT's.
Good luck. PM me if you have any additional questions.
I have read a ton on this. I was only "Not Ready" on the Catalyst and Evap. I run a BamaChips 93 Race tune. My problem is I am in the middle of switching to LT's and sold my mid pipe to a buddy and in the process of needing an inspection I decided to put the stock h-pipe back on. The problem was I disconnected the battery too. Everytime you disconnect the battery or install a tune it resets all the monitors and you have to get them back to the "Ready" state. From what I saw they all go back to ready state quickly except for the Catalyst and Evap.
To get mine to pass I only needed to get the Evap to be in a ready state. I followed the instructions found here:
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
From my experience not everythign in this document is 100% required, but it appears you need to do the following for sure: IAT (intake air temperature) has to be between 40 and 100 degrees or it wont set (this is a problem in extreme summer and winter);have the fuel tank between 1/2 to 3/4 full; start the car and let it idle for 15 seconds; drive it a bit to warm up; get on a straight stretch of highway and put the cruise control on 55 and make sure you drive that speed for 10 minutes (you can't go below 40 or above 65 mph during this time or it won't work); go home and park your car for 6 hours and next time you start it the EVAP will be reset.
You can read all about it at that link, but that is a brief synopsis for what worked for me.
It is a real PITA and I was getting annoyed and antsy at wanting to install my LT's.
Good luck. PM me if you have any additional questions.
10-14-2009, 04:57 PM
#22
Mish-ogynist
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Helena, MT
Posts: 3,780
I thought most people would know if the intake they have requires a tune.. all of the good ones do. and by requiring a tune, that means your engine will be running really lean w/o it.. so it had to go into safe(limp) mode.. if you had put the stock intake back on and then reloaded the stock tune it would have been easy.
10-14-2009, 05:11 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
6606GT - you're absolutely correct about everything. but when you get your longtubes you'll have another problem. If your cats are high-flow or do not work effectively you will still throw a P0420/430 (catalyst inefficiency banks 1/2). I worked around it by installing the o2 raisers and fooling it but you can modify the tune and increase the interval at which the front o2 signals and get by w/o the raisers. It all depends on your car, how well your catted midpipe/hi flow cats work and how GOOD YOUR TUNER IS.
I probably need a new midpipe/cats. The cams I was running were pumping a lot of unburnt fuel through the cats and probably killed them.
that was my experience....hope it helps. I plan to purchase the SCT pro racer software and do my own tuning/datalogging when I start modifying the car again.
I probably need a new midpipe/cats. The cams I was running were pumping a lot of unburnt fuel through the cats and probably killed them.
that was my experience....hope it helps. I plan to purchase the SCT pro racer software and do my own tuning/datalogging when I start modifying the car again.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-14-2009 at 05:14 PM.
10-14-2009, 06:29 PM
#26
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 470
So let me get this straight...if I don't mess with the cats, I can keep my aftermarket CAI on, and simply go from a "93 tune" to a "emissions tune" from my SCT and all should be cool with the state? What would happen if I stay with the "93 tune" and go in for a sniff test?
10-14-2009, 06:43 PM
#27
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
You can probably even keep your hi-perf 93 tune!!! Sniff test is all about how well your cats are working.
From what I've gathered it's all about the cats. If your cats work well enough to pass you're good. If your cats work well enough for the rear o2's tune, you're good.
If you have stock cats, I wouldn't worry about passing the sniff test.
From what I've gathered it's all about the cats. If your cats work well enough to pass you're good. If your cats work well enough for the rear o2's tune, you're good.
If you have stock cats, I wouldn't worry about passing the sniff test.
10-14-2009, 06:46 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
clear this up for us 302. you didn't fail the SNIFF test right??? you failed the emissions test. sniff test and emissions system tests (OBDII readiness) are two different things.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-14-2009 at 06:49 PM.
10-16-2009, 11:56 AM
#30
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 48
I got lucky. I found a car wash/lube/emissions place that passed my car 2 years in a row. I have a O/R x pipe on my car, tuned, and have the MIL eliminators on the car. You would think they would a)smell the fumes b) look underneath the car. I'm just glad I can avoid all the hassle most of you have.