Notices
2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Storin' it - Need some info.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-21-2009, 09:53 AM
  #1  
nicksfoursix
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nicksfoursix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Midwest
Posts: 125
Default Storin' it - Need some info.

I'm located in the midwest area. Snow and ice are pretty much around the corner and I'm putting the 'Stang away for a few months. I'd like to disable the vehicle so it can not be started/driven.
I'm curious to know if the vehicle has, per se, an injector fuse. This is the extent of disablement I need. Engine cranks, no fuel would be fine.
I don't want to do anything extensive nor any type of permanent modification.
Is this injector fuse idea feasible? If so, where is the fuse?
If not, any other ideas?
Thanks...
nicksfoursix is offline  
Old 11-21-2009, 10:48 AM
  #2  
Nuke
6th Gear Member
 
Nuke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
Posts: 16,182
Default

Lot's of threads on this except I'm not sure about disabling except for lifting the battery cable.


I'm in the Chicago NW burbs and put the Stang away last weekend and it'll be for about 4-5 months. Here are my "should do's" for anything less than 4-5 months:
  1. Fresh oil/filter change. A few hundred miles on fresh oil is ok providing the last run gets everything good and hot (at least 20-30 miles)
  2. Sta-bil in the tank (~6.5-7 ounces to treat 16 gallons), then fill-up and drive at least 10-20 miles to get the treated fuel thru the system
  3. Battery tender IF you still have the Motorcrap battery. Otherwise this can go on the "Optional" list
Optional:
  1. Steel wool in the exhaust tips and any opening(s) in the intake (keeps critteres out)
  2. Car cover
  3. dryer sheet(s) in the cab
  4. Carpet or plastic or cardboard under each tire
  5. Inflate tires to ~40 PSI
There may be a way to enable the fuel cutoff (occurs in an accident and the reset switch is located in the drivers side kickboard) also to disable the car. I'm sure others will chime in.
Nuke is offline  
Old 11-21-2009, 04:16 PM
  #3  
TPony
6th Gear Member
 
TPony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 11,962
Default

Mine is currently in storage and I have done basically all of the above.
TPony is offline  
Old 11-21-2009, 04:19 PM
  #4  
157dB
Cut & Paste Expert
 
157dB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Default

The best way is to use the PATS key as the security you desire
from unintentional start-ups while stored.
Hide the key(s) and no one including you will be able to start the stang.
Except maybe a dealership...
But they could also replace the removed fuse or relay also...

You could always pull the Fuel Pump Relay from inside the BEC under the hood...
The fuse you desire is in the BEC by the FPR.
The # is located in the owners manual btw...

A couple of boxes of baking soda will absorb any unwanted odors and moisture.
If you do disconnect the battery, be sure its the negative cable and be aware
that the short drop windows will not work and the PCM will require retraining
of the adaptive learning upon unstoring of the stang.

Last edited by 157dB; 11-21-2009 at 04:33 PM.
157dB is offline  
Old 11-22-2009, 01:33 AM
  #5  
doode
3rd Gear Member
 
doode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 638
Default

i throw my car up on jack stands

im not worried about the springs stretching or sagging
doode is offline  
Old 11-22-2009, 02:28 AM
  #6  
mygt500
Multi-Tasking Moderator!
 
mygt500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Detroit Rock City!
Posts: 15,618
Default

Originally Posted by Nuke
Lot's of threads on this except I'm not sure about disabling except for lifting the battery cable.


I'm in the Chicago NW burbs and put the Stang away last weekend and it'll be for about 4-5 months. Here are my "should do's" for anything less than 4-5 months:
  1. Fresh oil/filter change. A few hundred miles on fresh oil is ok providing the last run gets everything good and hot (at least 20-30 miles)
  2. Sta-bil in the tank (~6.5-7 ounces to treat 16 gallons), then fill-up and drive at least 10-20 miles to get the treated fuel thru the system
  3. Battery tender IF you still have the Motorcrap battery. Otherwise this can go on the "Optional" list
Optional:
  1. Steel wool in the exhaust tips and any opening(s) in the intake (keeps critteres out)
  2. Car cover
  3. dryer sheet(s) in the cab
  4. Carpet or plastic or cardboard under each tire
  5. Inflate tires to ~40 PSI
There may be a way to enable the fuel cutoff (occurs in an accident and the reset switch is located in the drivers side kickboard) also to disable the car. I'm sure others will chime in.
I did everything he said too.....she is sleeping now....no need to pull fuses for anything IMO....get a battery tender if sitting connected to the car for more than a week IMO...(esp with motorcraft batteries).

No need to start the car if you ran the car for a bit (driving is preferred) to get fuel stabil in the fuel lines up to the injectors. Done.....

I have done this for many yrs and most recently the last 3 for the stang in the sig.....no problems and no worries

IMO dont waste time on putting the car on jack stands....JMO
mygt500 is offline  
Old 11-22-2009, 08:19 AM
  #7  
Nuke
6th Gear Member
 
Nuke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
Posts: 16,182
Default

Originally Posted by mygt500
...IMO dont waste time on putting the car on jack stands....JMO

Same opinion here. The issue with the tires is typically 2fold:
  1. Flat spotting - tires won't flat spot if they're not touching the ground. But flat spots occur on most tires anyway, even after 1 day sitting and the cooler the worse it is. But flat spots are just a nuisance and will go away as the tire warms up from driving. Pumping the tire up to ~40 PSI will lessen the flat spotting somewhat but not prevent it.
  2. Tire rot - any rubber in contact with a surface in which moisture can readily flow back and forth will cause tire rot except this is only a real issue for long term storage AND/OR if you drive your car so infrequently that you replace tires due to age and not mileage. Placing some type of media as I suggested earlier will decrease this interaction but again, it's unnecessary if you replace your tires within a normal frequency. It often takes many, many years for a tire to rot. Sitting on concrete speeds the process up somewhat.
BTW, how'd those wheels I sold you work out?
Nuke is offline  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:10 AM
  #8  
157dB
Cut & Paste Expert
 
157dB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Default

I have a few sets of tires/rims in storage and they are aired down as
recommended by the manufacturer for storage on rims.
Out of the UV light is best.

F41 for the fuel pump and the injectors.
F40 for the ignition circuit.

Both located in the BEC under the hood.

Last edited by 157dB; 11-24-2009 at 08:01 AM.
157dB is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ThatJuanStang
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
4
09-25-2015 08:01 AM
Valek
Pipes, Boost & Juice
15
09-30-2004 01:31 AM
deesgt
Pipes, Boost & Juice
29
09-23-2004 01:17 AM
gasketdave
New Member Area
1
09-17-2004 01:39 PM
egraz21
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
0
02-29-2004 11:43 PM



Quick Reply: Storin' it - Need some info.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:11 PM.