NEED HELP,REAR END ALL OVER THE PLACE!!!
11-24-2009, 05:49 AM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Are the relo brackets themselves moving slightly under load?
At 11 PM, I wouldn't expect the technical forums to be all that busy. OT, probably.
Norm
At 11 PM, I wouldn't expect the technical forums to be all that busy. OT, probably.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 11-24-2009 at 05:53 AM.
11-24-2009, 08:09 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
Mike Castaldao:
Check my post on page one. All that you said last night was answered in my post, and everything you said done.
TheWarMachine and Riptide:
Same thing I told her, but we wanted to make sure I haven't overlooked something.
Norm:
We made sure everything was cetered and unbound when we were under there. When she does a full pull and gets all right traction, when she shifts to second there is a loud pop from her driver side rear. I told her that at this point that is probably the drivers side relocation bracket wrapping a little then snapping back, and suggessted that she probably should get them welded soon and it should clear up that last noise her car makes. She wanted to hear what people say first though cause she wouldnt take my word that it is pretty much impossible to get worse straight line traction by adding a set of correctly installed relocation brackets. Exept where in this case, the fact that she has that pop leads me to belive its loading up and snapping back acting like a spring on her mound wich is not good for traction and leaves her going a little sideways as the other mount is not wrapping.
Thanks for the info though guys.
Check my post on page one. All that you said last night was answered in my post, and everything you said done.
TheWarMachine and Riptide:
Same thing I told her, but we wanted to make sure I haven't overlooked something.
Norm:
We made sure everything was cetered and unbound when we were under there. When she does a full pull and gets all right traction, when she shifts to second there is a loud pop from her driver side rear. I told her that at this point that is probably the drivers side relocation bracket wrapping a little then snapping back, and suggessted that she probably should get them welded soon and it should clear up that last noise her car makes. She wanted to hear what people say first though cause she wouldnt take my word that it is pretty much impossible to get worse straight line traction by adding a set of correctly installed relocation brackets. Exept where in this case, the fact that she has that pop leads me to belive its loading up and snapping back acting like a spring on her mound wich is not good for traction and leaves her going a little sideways as the other mount is not wrapping.
Thanks for the info though guys.
11-24-2009, 08:16 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 179
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okay its your 3 member or rear mount if that helps .. its the one that is above the rear.. you need to replace it.. it also allows you to adjust angle the rear is at relation to the trans.. that must be replace.. you have adjustable panhard rod..make sure both tires are even on both sides.. that allows you to adjust side to side.. hope this helps.. by replaceing the mount you have now tighten the rear.. you may have to much or not enoungh perload on the rear.. did you replace the 3rd member bracket.. thats holds the rear mount. hope you are following me here.. ill get a pic..
METCO Heavy Duty Upper Control Arm Bracket
2005 & Newer Ford Mustang, Shelby GT500
This new bracket is a direct replacement for the stock upper control arm bracket found on all 2005 and newer Mustangs. It is made from high-grade laser cut steel and is precision welded on a jig. The bracket is powdercoated for surface protection and includes an application-specific grade 8 front control arm bolt with matching hardware.
This bracket eliminates the 'clunk' in the rear suspension often felt by Mustang owners after high performance control arms have been installed. The 'clunk' is the result of the loose fit between the factory's front control arm bolt and the factory upper control arm bracket. All Mustangs suffer from this loose fit, but the addition of high performance control arms with firmer bushings amplifies the noise. Our bracket solves the problem because of the precise fitment of our bracket and the included heavy-duty bolt.
Our bracket also offers two front control arm mounting locations, one that approximates the stock location and a second, lower attachment point designed to to improve the car's 'instant center' upon launch. The lower attachment point also offers much-needed clearance between the car's floor pan and the control arm in lowered vehicles.
okay its your 3 member or rear mount if that helps .. its the one that is above the rear.. you need to replace it.. it also allows you to adjust angle the rear is at relation to the trans.. that must be replace.. you have adjustable panhard rod..make sure both tires are even on both sides.. that allows you to adjust side to side.. hope this helps.. by replaceing the mount you have now tighten the rear.. you may have to much or not enoungh perload on the rear.. did you replace the 3rd member bracket.. thats holds the rear mount. hope you are following me here.. ill get a pic..
METCO Heavy Duty Upper Control Arm Bracket
2005 & Newer Ford Mustang, Shelby GT500
This new bracket is a direct replacement for the stock upper control arm bracket found on all 2005 and newer Mustangs. It is made from high-grade laser cut steel and is precision welded on a jig. The bracket is powdercoated for surface protection and includes an application-specific grade 8 front control arm bolt with matching hardware.
This bracket eliminates the 'clunk' in the rear suspension often felt by Mustang owners after high performance control arms have been installed. The 'clunk' is the result of the loose fit between the factory's front control arm bolt and the factory upper control arm bracket. All Mustangs suffer from this loose fit, but the addition of high performance control arms with firmer bushings amplifies the noise. Our bracket solves the problem because of the precise fitment of our bracket and the included heavy-duty bolt.
Our bracket also offers two front control arm mounting locations, one that approximates the stock location and a second, lower attachment point designed to to improve the car's 'instant center' upon launch. The lower attachment point also offers much-needed clearance between the car's floor pan and the control arm in lowered vehicles.
11-24-2009, 04:14 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: maryland
Posts: 155
thats fine.. but did you change the mounting point.. in the pic i posted..The lower attachment point also offers much-needed clearance between the car's floor pan and the control arm in lowered
Last edited by mike castaldo; 11-24-2009 at 04:35 PM.
11-24-2009, 04:19 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: maryland
Posts: 155
Mike Castaldao:
Check my post on page one. All that you said last night was answered in my post, and everything you said done.
TheWarMachine and Riptide:
Same thing I told her, but we wanted to make sure I haven't overlooked something.
Norm:
We made sure everything was cetered and unbound when we were under there. When she does a full pull and gets all right traction, when she shifts to second there is a loud pop from her driver side rear. I told her that at this point that is probably the drivers side relocation bracket wrapping a little then snapping back, and suggessted that she probably should get them welded soon and it should clear up that last noise her car makes. She wanted to hear what people say first though cause she wouldnt take my word that it is pretty much impossible to get worse straight line traction by adding a set of correctly installed relocation brackets. Exept where in this case, the fact that she has that pop leads me to belive its loading up and snapping back acting like a spring on her mound wich is not good for traction and leaves her going a little sideways as the other mount is not wrapping.
Thanks for the info though guys.
Check my post on page one. All that you said last night was answered in my post, and everything you said done.
TheWarMachine and Riptide:
Same thing I told her, but we wanted to make sure I haven't overlooked something.
Norm:
We made sure everything was cetered and unbound when we were under there. When she does a full pull and gets all right traction, when she shifts to second there is a loud pop from her driver side rear. I told her that at this point that is probably the drivers side relocation bracket wrapping a little then snapping back, and suggessted that she probably should get them welded soon and it should clear up that last noise her car makes. She wanted to hear what people say first though cause she wouldnt take my word that it is pretty much impossible to get worse straight line traction by adding a set of correctly installed relocation brackets. Exept where in this case, the fact that she has that pop leads me to belive its loading up and snapping back acting like a spring on her mound wich is not good for traction and leaves her going a little sideways as the other mount is not wrapping.
Thanks for the info though guys.
drag bar as well. does great for 60'.. i had the same thing when i change the suspension too the crazy thing is it was my alum drive shaft hitting the bottom of car.. till i changed the factor upper mount bracket.. i believe that is what is flexing..
Last edited by mike castaldo; 11-24-2009 at 04:33 PM.
11-24-2009, 05:38 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
well that BMR rear anti roll bar kit does look pretty nice, but it recomends drag use only. Shes not going for just drag, this is her leasure, smoke someone at a light, or have fun blasting down back roads car. Shes just trying to make sure we havent missed something causing her to have less traction then when she had her stock tires and no relocation brackets.
11-24-2009, 05:47 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
I got new supercars put on my car last Friday. The temp was around 45 degrees when I left the tire shop. I got into the throttle in 2nd gear a little bit after leaving the shop, no more than a few hundred yards down the street, and the back end wanted to swing out on me. Kinda gave me a bit of a scare.
Summer tires under 50, and being new.. I'd just give it some time. That is if there is much time left before the temps get even worse.
Summer tires under 50, and being new.. I'd just give it some time. That is if there is much time left before the temps get even worse.
11-24-2009, 05:59 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
yeah, I'm telling her to wait till spring when the ground is like 70+ instead of 45 or less, and the tires are 80+ instead of 50 or less. Also told her shes going to want to spin em a few times to clear the layer of crap and oils and stuff that get on em from packing / shipping.
I have the supercars too, and when I want to hook, I always do a burnout for like 5 seconds or so. You dont want to overheat street tires and do a big billowing burnout, but you do want them pretty warm and running on a clean layer.
I have the supercars too, and when I want to hook, I always do a burnout for like 5 seconds or so. You dont want to overheat street tires and do a big billowing burnout, but you do want them pretty warm and running on a clean layer.
11-24-2009, 06:00 PM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 179
that is possible.. i weld mine.. i also run the bmr
drag bar as well. does great for 60'.. i had the same thing when i change the suspension too the crazy thing is it was my alum drive shaft hitting the bottom of car.. till i changed the factor upper mount bracket.. i believe that is what is flexing..
drag bar as well. does great for 60'.. i had the same thing when i change the suspension too the crazy thing is it was my alum drive shaft hitting the bottom of car.. till i changed the factor upper mount bracket.. i believe that is what is flexing..
