Simon1

I didn't need camber bolts or anything different in the front. There was enough adjustment to make it just right. But each car is different. As far as the new mounts, I haven't even heard of those but if you are going to have to take the front end apart later anyway, why not try to use what you have. Wouldn't saving the money would it?

I would highly recommend shocks/stuts (I like the Tokico D- Spec) get done at the same time. For one, you won't have to redo the front suspension all over again and #2, changing to a different front shock later may change your alignement, causing you more money to be spent.

Makes sure your relocate brackets are in the lowest hole after the install.

JDWalton

You say there was just enough adjustment.. What was it that you did adjust? My understanding was the front was not adjustable.

Rubrignitz

The closest I could get with stock control arm alignment and my steedas pulled ALL the way out was -1.2 with the 1 degree of adjustment they allow, which is still quite a lot of negative camber! Now with the X5 balljoints and bumpsteer kit it's a bit more under control. I have them a tad under halfway out and am now at -.6/-.7.

I had my relocation brackets on the lowest hole with the 1.25'' lowering of the steeda competition springs (which I still run out back because of the much lighter weight of the comp rears over the ultralite rears). Oddly enough the front comp springs were 3 lbs!! heavier than the ultralites yet the ultralite rears were 2 lbs!! heavier than the steeda comps. Made no sense but I feel the rear is more responsive with the much lighter weight comp rears along with the much lighter weight ultralite fronts. With the lca's on the lowest hole of my BMR brackets they were at an extreme angle, which helped traction substantially but also induced quite a bit of roll steer. I moved them back up to the highest hole and they are still slightly lowered to the axle-side for traction yet don't induce roll-steer nearly as much. It's a traction-handling tradeoff...

I had my bumpsteer professionally adjusted last week, got the camber to .6/.7 and caster is still 6.5/7.5. For some reason caster is off from the factory...maybe for crowned roads??? Whatever the case, once I install a caster kit to correct that the steering will put me to sleep on long trips.

itsokimapilot

Delete-Double post

itsokimapilot

Anyone ever look into installing a Watt's Linkage vs Panhard? Sounds like Watt's offers more control and wasn't designed by the French...Not that there's anything wrong with that.

deekum1627

i got that here man http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com.../m-18183-a.htm

JDWalton

I actualy plan on doing the watts link in a few months. Much better imho

Simon1

There is adjustment within the front suspension, but not very much. I forget who it was but a few years ago when I did lower my car I used a spec sheet he had provided with what the aspects of everything should be. They were within parameters and the car has driven fine ever since. Not strange tire wear or noises.

There are some people that can't get away with lowering without using camber bolts or plates. But some can. It depends on what springs/shocks you use and you car.

Rubrignitz

If you decide to go wattslink give Sam Strano a call. The guy is a 5 time national champion in SCCA and a wealth of knowledge. He carries many different brands. Each has its own design and some suffer from shearing issues so choose carefully. They're pretty expensive lol.

JDWalton

Thank you for the info, but you sound like you love the guy IRL or something. Seen you telling alot of people to call him directly, lol. Already done my research and know what I am putting in for most ever thing else.

Got these springs, going with Tokico D-Specs, gonna get a Steeda adjustable front sway arm, maybe the bump steer kit, depending on how this does, and the Saleen Watts link kit (includes rear end links and thicker sway arm.)

So thats got me all picked out on springs, shocks/struts, all my control arms (already on car,) relocation brackets (already on car,) adjustable pan hard on for now till the watts link down the road. Not much else I need at that point.

So for now just going to lower it and see how it drives. If I end up with bump steer or noticeable camber, I'll buy the parts then go down to the shop here that will let me work with the guy while there aligning it, so basicaly I'm just using there machine and adjusting it how I want.