pascal

I will, good night.

breathegood

My tuner told me he had a customer put in the thumpers (don't know what stage), and later the customer put on a whipple and had him put the stock cams back on because he was only able to get 6psi of boost on a 10psi pulley with the thumpers. Probably a good idea to get a blower cam for a boosted application.

I think I'm going to go the forged and stroked route this summer. I know I could get more with F/I for less coin, but I really like the idea of pushing ~400whp N/A....later I'll think about F/I.

JDWalton

Indeed,


What do you guyst think is the sickest sounding blower friendly cam? I like the performance of the brenspeed customs, but really want int to have the real sound of the built motor it will be also.

SirKnightTG

One of these two for sure:

XFI™ SPR Ford 4.6L/5.4L Modular 3V Cams

Blower Grind, Stage 2 - Big power gains in mid to upper-rpm range for bolt-on blowers with high boost. Rough idle, solid power gains above 4900 rpm, requires spring & phaser upgrade. Custom tuning required. Best with 3.90+ gears & 3000+ stall. Blower Grind, Stage 3 - Max effort blower cam with very rough idle, needs ported heads. Great mid-range power with incredible gains up to 7000+ rpm. Solid power gains above 4900 rpm, requires spring & phaser upgrade. Custom tuning required. 4.10+ gears & 3200+ stall.

JDWalton

yeah, just discovered brenspeeds video of the stage 2s, I like.. alot. now if only we can get back on topic for this thread! lol.

jrockgts197

As much as I would like to insert a crude comment right here I will try to refrain and add some useful information. I've been researching the stroker engine idea for the past year and from what I have gathered from variuous sources it seems that stroking a 4.6 yields mixed results. The limiting factor on the motor seems to be the heads and the fact that the valves are shrouded pretty badly from the factory. By increasing the stroke of the motor you are trying to move more air through the same shrouded valves and the horsepower gain is minimal if you are planning to stay N/A. I talked to a local engine builder to get some ideas and he told me that his motor made more power with aftermarket heads / cams and the stock bore / stroke than it did with a stroker kit when he was N/A. Before I start a flame war let me explain. He said that the stock bore / stroke did not have the mid range power of the stroker motor, but it kept making power all the way to red line while the stroker motor tended to flatten out past 4500 rpm. He also said that the peak horsepower and torque numbers were higher with the stock bore / stroke. Boring the motor tends to help unshroud the valves, allowing you to take better advantage of aftermarket heads / cams, but at a significantly higher price mostly due to the fact that the cylinders require sleeving and machine shop labor is steep these days. However, a lot of people run the forged stroker kits with a supercharger and have seen fantastic results. My conclusion is that if you want to stay N/A then get the motor bored out to help unshroud the valves, but if you want FI then a stroker kit would probably suit you just fine due to the fact that you could increase displacement, drop in forged internals, and have minimal downtime. If money is not a concern then do both. This is all just my opinion based off of my own research, of course, and I welcome any input that any of you might have.

X3xMONGOOSEx3X

I could use a nice massage. Sorry need to stop.

dysan

I don't think sleeving is necessary until you go big bore. Mine's bored 20 over and it's not sleeved and I have no heat issues. I will agree about the top end power though not being there when compared to the standard bore/stroke. It does pull real hard down low which is nice. I also no longer have my VCT so that hurts the top end as well so it's a double whammy for me. I know I'll be happier than a pig in SH*T once I get some forced induction on it though which is where I'm headed once I get the dang build paid off hopefully in the next 2 months.

JDWalton

Check the Sig, already at 9.5 PSI on the saleen. The forged stroker is to support the 14psi pulley I want to drop on.

Also 20 over is not really a bored motor. 20 is basicly to give you a fresh surface for your pistons/rings. I'm going to get the 20 over 5.0 kit. Already talked to a shop that builds engines here, they said the machine shop they use is very reliable / experienced, and generaly charges $40 a piston for the machine work. I can afford the $320 for the block work. I'm going to try to do as much of the labor as I can, so far with the stroker assembly, cams, and some required supporting mods, I'm planning about $3500 in hardware. I'll probably grab some dished pistons set up for about 9.2 compression