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Hi Temp Brake Fluid? Should I change?

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Old 02-02-2010, 11:42 AM
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CalmLikeaBomb
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Default Hi Temp Brake Fluid? Should I change?

Im going on track day and ive ordered some new rotors and pads. I was considering changing my brake fluid. As far as I know its the stock fluid right now and its at 53k miles on the car. I dont race everyweekend, but im considering doing a flush?

1. Can someone reccommend me a high temp DOT4 fluid? How many quarts?

2. Should I really change the fluid at all? Or do a flush?
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:47 AM
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jahudso2
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ATE superblue or ATE type 200. I cant remember exactly how much you need, but i think its 3 liters. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/acces...tail.jsp?ID=21
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:32 PM
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liberty911
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Change out the fluid to ATE Blue. I've run ATE on track cars in the past with improved results over the OEM fluid. You won't see that much improvement on the street, but it's nice to know you have a higher boiling point if necessary. After 53k miles you would think some moisture has worked its way into the lines so it's a good idea to change.

Did you also get Speed Bleeders? They replace the bleeder screws and make the switch very easy and allow for easy bleedings at the track in between sessions.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:40 PM
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CalmLikeaBomb
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I havent ordered anything yet.

Is the fluid change relatively easy? I have changed rotors and pads before.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:24 PM
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zkiller
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Castrol SRF
Very pricy but great DOT 4 fluid.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:30 PM
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liberty911
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Originally Posted by CalmLikeaBomb
I havent ordered anything yet.

Is the fluid change relatively easy? I have changed rotors and pads before.
With SpeedBleeders it is simple. (1) Attach a tube to the end of the speedbleeder, (2) place the other end of the tube in an empty can, (3) turn the speedbleeder about 1/2 turn to open it up, (4) pump brake peddle, (5) watch brake fluid reservoir to ensure it does not run dry and add fluid as needed, (5) when the fluid is changed out (easy when you use a different color fluid) tighten the bleeder valve and move to the next one.

I let the reservoir run almost empty before adding the ATE to avoid mixing. I also start at the caliper that is furthest from the reservoir (passenger rear). Without the speedbleeder you will have to have a buddy open the bleeder valve as you step on the brake peddle, and then close the valve as you let off the peddle.

There are other products for the one-man brake bleeding and I've tried several. The speedbleeders are the easiest, simply replace the OEM bleeder valve, and are always there. I think a set of 4 will run about $30. The fronts are a different size from the rear. I know Summit has the SpeedBleeders as do some Autozones, PepBoys and similar places.

Last edited by liberty911; 02-02-2010 at 03:32 PM. Reason: I added step 5 . . . just in case.
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