Saleen sc diy tips?
#1
Saleen sc diy tips?
I'm going to see a local speed shop this next week and I'm trying to decide if I can do the install myself or with a tech coming over to my garage and helping me with the harder parts. I'm not a mechanic and I have very limited abilities to what work on a car I can do.
I've been looking over the e force and saleen for a real long time now and I still can't decide. I found a base saleen for 4200 without the sct which I already have. But then again the e force is like 5800 as a complete kit with higher boost potential.
I can't decide? I like the looks of the saleen better, but I think the edelbrock has better power potential. I was quoted at 500 to install the e force. I couldn't get a quote off the saleen.
I am also wondering how much of a difference me going with a 430 rwhp kit would differ from me going all out with an e force and aluminator trying to push 550 rwhp? I mean a high number is great, but what can my auto trans, factory internals, and my factory suspension actually handle? I have read many threads about a sc s197gt beating gt500s quite often due to the traction issues. I would like the most streetable power than I can actually use as a dd with street tires, my auto trans, and my facory internals. I am also trying to stay away from the gt500 fuel system if I can. I mean, on the street with street tires and a dd, is there a huge difference from a 440rwhp saleen sc compared to a 47-500 rwhp e force? That is if I can't get good traction and I need to learn the proper takeoff.
Any opinions guys? I'm looking at 4200 base saleen with jdm tune, and I would later add smaller pulley and possible cai, bigger injectors. I'm trying to stay away from the boost a pump and gt500 fuel system if possible.
Any help guys? Moeny is tightand I want to make my baby more respectable.
Thanks.
I've been looking over the e force and saleen for a real long time now and I still can't decide. I found a base saleen for 4200 without the sct which I already have. But then again the e force is like 5800 as a complete kit with higher boost potential.
I can't decide? I like the looks of the saleen better, but I think the edelbrock has better power potential. I was quoted at 500 to install the e force. I couldn't get a quote off the saleen.
I am also wondering how much of a difference me going with a 430 rwhp kit would differ from me going all out with an e force and aluminator trying to push 550 rwhp? I mean a high number is great, but what can my auto trans, factory internals, and my factory suspension actually handle? I have read many threads about a sc s197gt beating gt500s quite often due to the traction issues. I would like the most streetable power than I can actually use as a dd with street tires, my auto trans, and my facory internals. I am also trying to stay away from the gt500 fuel system if I can. I mean, on the street with street tires and a dd, is there a huge difference from a 440rwhp saleen sc compared to a 47-500 rwhp e force? That is if I can't get good traction and I need to learn the proper takeoff.
Any opinions guys? I'm looking at 4200 base saleen with jdm tune, and I would later add smaller pulley and possible cai, bigger injectors. I'm trying to stay away from the boost a pump and gt500 fuel system if possible.
Any help guys? Moeny is tightand I want to make my baby more respectable.
Thanks.
#2
I think it's generally accepted by most modders that 450 rwhp is within the safe range for stock internals and that 500 rwhp is at the edge. Beyond that and you should seriously consider a forged rotating assembly. So if you intend to stay within the "safe" range then whether you get there with a Saleen blower or e-Force is a matter of affordability. The base Saleen with a 4.0" pulley is good for about 400 rwhp so I'm not sure what you're getting for the $4,200. I'd recommend a BAP or dual fuel pumps at 450 rwhp and 39# injectors. Also beyond 400 rwhp you should consider a 98mm MAF. Again, see what's in the kit. So the power potential is not the issue - what power range you intend for you and the car is. As for the install, you can do it yourself with a friend even if you're not a gearhead. Just read the instructions thoroughly, bag and tag the parts you take off, and take your time. Oh, by the way, there is a plumbing change from the '07 GT's compared to the '05-'06, make sure you get the right Saleen kit. I don't know much about the e-Force so I can't help much there.
#3
i have a saleen sc kit i bought off the forums. we havent installed yet, but i will install at my friends house who is experienced. i dont know that the eforce has more potential, but u want to keep stock internals so that shouldnt matter because both kits will deliver 450whp. i would NOT install without the necesary fuel upgrades, thats an engine waiting to be starved.
#4
I'm thinking of the base saleen kit, bigger fuelk injectors and the 3.4 pulley, with jdm's tune. I would like to keep my stock fuel system and not go for an all out big hp/tq number that my stock suspension with 20's would spin all day. I would love that high dyno number with an aluminator, the highest boost pully for the saleen unit, and the gt500 fuel system. But I don't think I could use all that power as a dd on the street with only street tires. i'm trying to find the best setup for my car's needs on the street.
Just a thought I'm thinking of, should I try to go with a useable 435-440rwhp over a higher stage unit at say 470rwhp? I'm wondering if I could really feel that estimated 30rwhp and if it would even matter if my auto's spinning in first or second?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Just a thought I'm thinking of, should I try to go with a useable 435-440rwhp over a higher stage unit at say 470rwhp? I'm wondering if I could really feel that estimated 30rwhp and if it would even matter if my auto's spinning in first or second?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
#5
I track my car only about 3-4 times a year so the rest of the time its a DD. I have two tunes, a 3.8 for DD and 3.4 when I go to the track. Its just a quick pulley and belt change before and after. With the 3.8 pulley I'm at about 420 rwhp and thats plenty enough for my street tires and 19" wheels. I installed Steeda adjustable UCA, fixed LCA, UMI UCA Mounting Bracket and BMR Panhard Bar, and I have a hella fun time on the street when I punch the go pedal with the 3.8 pulley/tune. With the 3.4 I use MT/ETs at over 465 rwhp on stock internals. I also have a KB BAP, 39# injectors and HT0 plugs gapped at .032 and its worked well for me in the past 3-1/2 years.
BTW, I never realized how squirrely my car's rear end was until I changed out the stock UCA Mounting Bracket for the UMI one in the lower mounting position (to adjust the instant center). A noticeable difference for sure.
BTW, I never realized how squirrely my car's rear end was until I changed out the stock UCA Mounting Bracket for the UMI one in the lower mounting position (to adjust the instant center). A noticeable difference for sure.
Last edited by RedFire281; 03-05-2010 at 04:22 PM.
#6
Good to hear redfire. The main thing I'm trying to find is the best tune and pulley to go with for the most power my stock suspension and my 20's can handle without spinning on the street too long. Also, I have heard conflicting opinions on whether I need a kb boost a pump for this 3.4 pulley setup with the bigger injectors? It's not too expensive of an add on, but won't it basically kill your feul pump sooner than later due to having the levels set on high all the time? I'm assuming that's how it works? No expert here.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
I'd hate to see this thread deteriorate into a he said/she said discussion about the BAP. I can only tell you what I know about the BAP and even then, most of it comes from Kenne Bell - so consider the source. First, the BAP only activates when in boost so even though it's set to max it is a passive system otherwise. There are thousands of BAPs in service up to 525 rwhp. In the SN95 world KB Superchargers are the cats meow and every one was sold with a BAP as part of the kit. These have been in service for years without a single pump failure that could be traced to a properly installed BAP. Dual pumps seem to be the rage for S197s but I've haven't read a thread where a stock pump running a BAP (under 500 rwhp) has failed. I have no doubt that if I were going to run over 500 rwhp I would install dual pumps but until then the BAP is working okay for me for 3-1/2 years. If you're going with a 3.4 pulley you should install one or the other.
A 3.4 pulley on a stock suspension is overkill IMHO. All that power is useless if you can't put it to the ground. I recommend you beef up your suspension before you install the SC.
A 3.4 pulley on a stock suspension is overkill IMHO. All that power is useless if you can't put it to the ground. I recommend you beef up your suspension before you install the SC.
#8
+1 on the BAP. Brenspeed has been running with it for years and has never had a failure. Pumps are rated at 14v, but generally only receive 10-12v. It's the same thing in the industrial world with heat pumps, water pumps, etc. A lot of people may badmouth them, but they generally come up short when asked to provide any proof or first hand knowledge of one failing. People gripe about working a pump past its limits, but we essentially do the same thing every time we mod our engines (which are simply air pumps). There are ranges in which its safe to do so, and the same applies to a fuel pump.
#9
I, with the help of a few buddies, installed my Saleen about 7 weeks ago. I'm relatively adept at working at cars, but I couldn't have done it without the help of my friends. First and foremost the supercharger itself is very heavy... around 80lbs if I remember correctly so you'll definitely need some help dropping it in. There were also several other instances where it was very helpful having an extra set of hands, like when installing the heat exchanger.
I didn't get the BAP, but I did get Bosch 39lb injectors. I'm currently only running the Brenspeed Stage II kit, so the BAP isn't necessary.
You could also consider a wiring upgrade instead of the BAP.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...de-kit-p-15290
I'm strongly considering upgrading to the Brenspeed 302 stroker motor and at that time I'll upgrade with the GT500 fuel pumps... I'd run nothing less than that with 550+rwhp.
I didn't get the BAP, but I did get Bosch 39lb injectors. I'm currently only running the Brenspeed Stage II kit, so the BAP isn't necessary.
You could also consider a wiring upgrade instead of the BAP.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...de-kit-p-15290
I'm strongly considering upgrading to the Brenspeed 302 stroker motor and at that time I'll upgrade with the GT500 fuel pumps... I'd run nothing less than that with 550+rwhp.
#10
see if you can download their directions. if you can get a copy just look over every step and see if you're comfortable doing all the work. if it looks overwhelming and "scary" then you may not want to do the install yourself. I've only installed KB superchargers and their directions are great, very easy to follow.
honestly a supercharger install isn't too bad, you're not getting into the guts of the motor, you're just swapping out the intake manifold and adding a bunch of parts if you're intercooled (which I strongly suggest!). set aside a couple days and have a buddy help you. it'll be fun and an extra set of eyes will help keep you from overlooking stuff and making mistakes. the last install I did I took the hood off, getting that out of the way made things a lot easier. a couple of fender mats will help keep you from scratching things up.
as far as the BAP the KB kits come with them and we used it, works great, never had fuel problems. KB says the s197 pump with a BAP is good till about 600whp. that's about the limit of the dual pumps without a BAP, with the BAP dual pumps are good for about 900whp. my buddy's GT ran the BAP for over 2 years no problem, still working great when he sold the car.
honestly a supercharger install isn't too bad, you're not getting into the guts of the motor, you're just swapping out the intake manifold and adding a bunch of parts if you're intercooled (which I strongly suggest!). set aside a couple days and have a buddy help you. it'll be fun and an extra set of eyes will help keep you from overlooking stuff and making mistakes. the last install I did I took the hood off, getting that out of the way made things a lot easier. a couple of fender mats will help keep you from scratching things up.
as far as the BAP the KB kits come with them and we used it, works great, never had fuel problems. KB says the s197 pump with a BAP is good till about 600whp. that's about the limit of the dual pumps without a BAP, with the BAP dual pumps are good for about 900whp. my buddy's GT ran the BAP for over 2 years no problem, still working great when he sold the car.