Nuke

Terminal voltage is basically useless. You need to have the battery load tested to be sure.

It's either a battery/charging system issue or the water leak/SJB FUBAR issue IMO.

doode

in my own past experience ( 3 times ) i would say battery

surface voltage shows 12.2+ volts, once i hit crank, it drops to 10 volts, doesn't crank and makes all the buzzing, clicking noises that you decsribed.

jump the car, see if it works...i betting it will start up and run

05redfire6

Alright update
Took off the neg cable to the battery and scrubbed/cleaned the terminal and left it unhooked for about 10 or so minutes. Plugged the horn relay back in and as soon as i started putting the cable back on the horn beeped and startled me haha glad i know progress is being made. Turn the key to ON..... everything is normal YESSSSSSSS. GO TO CRANK CLICK NADA! WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pull the key out and my little horn relay starts clicking but not as bad as it was before. Now whenever i go to ON its the same dim yellow belt light and red lock but no crank or anything whatsoever. And when i take the key out the cluster would buzz/tachs would move below resting spot and now my Anti Theft would constantly blink, even when i press the black button behind it, it would come back on and also makes a ticking noise in that general area by my OBD connector. This is really frustrating me now

HypromanGT

1. It is normal for the horn to honk slightly when re-connecting the battery.
2. Get that battery load tested!! I think Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc will do it for nothing.

wilkinda

Like the others said..get the battery load tested. That was how i found out my was bad

3fan

Yep sounds like a battery. I had one with a dead cell and it would be fine then stop for gas or something and car would not start and all the noises like you describe. Jump car off and it might not do it for days or weeks then bam it was back. They load tested it and thats all it was. 50 bucks and I was on my way.