liberty911

160 is way too hot to wait for the fans to come on. Mine run with the key in the "on" position.

I'd do water/meth injection in a minute if I could find an adapter. I know BBR has the plate for the Ken Bell which is nice as long as you have the 1" clearance under the hood. You could go with aftermarket motor mounts which would lower the motor about a 1/2" if your close.

candymanjl

I would just run AEM's water/meth kit and put the nozzle right in front of the throttle body on the intake. got a link to the BBR thing you're talking about?

2007CalSpec

It's actually 150 to 220 but I can turn the dial all the way counter clockwise to have the fans come on all the time with the key on. Maybe I'll do that instead.

candymanjl

at cruise with it being about 80-90 out right now and no fans I'm around 120-130 degrees on the intake temps. I agree that the fans not coming on till 150 is a little too high. if you could set them at like 100 degrees then it would be cool. if I add fans I'll just have them on 100% of the time. you can never have too cold of intake temps

AmericanSpeed

CalSpec, can you post up a parts list?

2007CalSpec

Derale 9" fans x 2

Derale adjustable fan control thermostat. Temp range is 150-240; not 220 like I thought.

You might need some 16ga wires (depends on thermostat mounting location) to extend the fan wires to the thermostat. I had to extend because I mounted the thermostat on the strut tower.

liberty911

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbr2628scmep.html

On FI applications the meth/water injection must take place after the intake air is compressed to have any benefit. This requires drilling and tapping the intake or a plate sandwiched between the blower and intake manifold. If you place the plate at the TB then the meth/water is being heated through compression so any results are nominal at best. I am not aware of any sandwich plate for the Whipple, only the one above fro Ken Bell.

AmericanSpeed

I've heard of people spraying pre-blower. Why wouldn't that be effective? Cooling comes from evaporating the water/meth as it takes the addition of heat for this process to occur (hence heat is sucked from intake air). I know that some people are against pre-blower applications due to the possibility of the methanol corroding the surface coating inside the blower.

liberty911

I'm relaying information I received from BBR, Lethal Performance, and some internet research relating to the Twin Screw SC. I haven't tried the water injection either way, but it just seems to make sense to me that if you want the maximum benefit from injection you do not want to heat the Water/meth by running it through the blower. I am sure you have some cooling the IATs but I am told it is negligible. I would really like to see some dyno sheets with the pre and post blower injection. Here is one link of the only dyno sheet I could find.

http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/wate...20with%20Water

I am not convinced with this dyno run since the HP is low and the boost is relatively low as well.