Superchargers, I'm at a loss on what to do.
#14
Yea if u dont make enough money to expect a blown motor then u shouldnt bother. Or if u can save another 6 grand in two years so that u are prepared for a blown motor then by all means do it. I have seen alot of guys blow there motors and it is not something that someone should do if they dont have the money. Get 410s and cams if u want some extra power, better tires make a difference too. Good luck
#16
Lol, well they expect it to last enough that they will fix anything you break in the powertrain for 3 years or 36K. I don't know if its true, but the roush guy i talked to said they helped design the 4.6 so it could handle boost. they should know what they are talking about when it comes to longevity. And FWIW, ford racing doesn't really offer a good warranty any more. Only the 400hp kit has a warranty now and it is only 12 months 12K. the 550 kit has none at all. The roush m90 has the full 36/36 warranty on it.
#17
I have to tell ya if I did it all over again, I would have gotten a used GT500. Just a simple pulley swap, CAI, & tune and you're looking at a safe 550rwhp. That forged motor can take a serious pounding. There are lots of people running 700 rwhp on them.
#18
I would rather take apart the car one bolt at a time, replace what I want, and make it suited to me. Half the fun is researching, learning, turning the wrench, and seeing the improvements after each mod. Plus, when its done I know every nut, bolt and connection on the car!
#19
Money:
I do not want a SC that is going to cost me 7k in the end.
I'd like to stay at 6k or lower if possible.
I WILL BE HAVING IT INSTALLED PROFESSIONALLY.
(keep this in mind when price is calculated)
What I want:
Instant boost (if I can on that budget and safety issues)
LOUD WHINE
Over 420RWHP (I'd like to get 450)... if possible safely.
I do not want a SC that is going to cost me 7k in the end.
I'd like to stay at 6k or lower if possible.
I WILL BE HAVING IT INSTALLED PROFESSIONALLY.
(keep this in mind when price is calculated)
What I want:
Instant boost (if I can on that budget and safety issues)
LOUD WHINE
Over 420RWHP (I'd like to get 450)... if possible safely.
100% safe. You cannot blow the motor with this setup. If a failure occurs, it is because that component was already likely to fail
the 4.6 3v and 5.4 3v are good for years of reliable forced induction duty with pressure up to 8 psi. above 8 psi you are starting to risk the block. over 10 psi and the block is a ticking time bomb
add some custom tuning and a pulley (max about $500 for pulley + tune), and you can pretty much expect your goal of 420+ RWHP. Especially if you add some power adders like LT's and a good exhaust later on down the road.the 4.6 3v and 5.4 3v are good for years of reliable forced induction duty with pressure up to 8 psi. above 8 psi you are starting to risk the block. over 10 psi and the block is a ticking time bomb
hell, just custom tuning alone will get you over 400 RWHP. the stock Roush Tuning SUCKS. I could not stand that tune.
But it was safe
But it was safe
My old RoushCharger was pretty loud. You cannot miss it. I really loved the sound of the boost when in a tunnel.
The Boost Bypass is usually a modulated valve that starts getting shut at a certain % of throttle, and is finally shut at another % of throttle
ie: starts shutting at 50% throttle, then fully shut by 75% throttle
incidentally, the Roushcharger isn't fully shut until about 80% throttle. can't remember when it starts to shut though.
vice a Centri blower which is under boost 75% of the RPM band. There isn't any boost worth talking about under 1,500-2,000 rpm...but over 2,000 rpm they are pressurizing the motor completely. The boost value increases until you reach the setpoint for the Blow-off valve which opens and maintains the boost (hopefully) at a predetermined value. Which is typically 6-8 psi.incidentally, the Roushcharger isn't fully shut until about 80% throttle. can't remember when it starts to shut though.
all things considered, yes I agree the centri is "easier" on the motor. I say that based only on shock loading.
A centri blown motor will see a gradual rise in boost. the boost is never just dumped into the cylinders and stressing the pistons/rods.
a Posi blown motor is running around fat dumb & happy...then you nail the throttle and the Boost Bypass Valve shuts. Instant boost applied which is harder on the pistons/rods. That is why you should stick with 6-8 psi for a non-forged motor
a Posi blown motor is running around fat dumb & happy...then you nail the throttle and the Boost Bypass Valve shuts. Instant boost applied which is harder on the pistons/rods. That is why you should stick with 6-8 psi for a non-forged motor
Hope I helped you some. I personally really recommend the Roush Blower. The price is amazing, you will get pretty decent HP/TQ results...and it's a well designed system. Roush is a Top Quality company IMO.
or you can spend the extra $1-2,000 and get a higher HP capable blower. Whipple and KB are awesome...but when looking at a $$$ to HP ratio...the Roush wins
#20
Roush supplements the 3yr/36k Warranty themselves. They don't expect or depend on Ford for any portion of it. How many companies do that? Not many Companies have such faith in their product.
No, Saleen advertises it...Roush talks the talk and will back it up. They blew up a bunch of 2005-2006 Stage 2-3 F-150's due to a tuning error a few year back. Without question, they fixed the issue.
I've also seen them repair driveshafts that were sheared by a few guys in their Stage 3 trucks at the Dragstrip when running slicks.
Roush doesn't just ***** nilly say they'll warranty it. They are serious