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Wheelhop?

Old 05-03-2010, 03:49 PM
  #11  
JDWalton
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wow, you went over 4k posts before looking up wheelhop! That must be some kind of record. As others have said though, first part is usualy LCA, then UCA and relo brakcets.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:21 PM
  #12  
Lupo222
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So my mustang is lowered with steeda springs...I'm guessing the relo brackets are something I should invest in as well as the LCAs? I don't want to lose my cornering but I really would like to "hook" better at the track!

Also, does the LCA affect my traction when shifting, or just on the initial launch?? Because this car tends to face the car in the lane next to me when shifting into 2nd!!
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:50 PM
  #13  
90stang5.0
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Originally Posted by Lupo222
So my mustang is lowered with steeda springs...I'm guessing the relo brackets are something I should invest in as well as the LCAs? I don't want to lose my cornering but I really would like to "hook" better at the track!

Also, does the LCA affect my traction when shifting, or just on the initial launch?? Because this car tends to face the car in the lane next to me when shifting into 2nd!!
If your car is lowered and you DON'T have an adjustable panhard bar, then your differential may be shifted to one side slightly and that could be causing the rear to kick out. Also without adjustable UCA or LCA, your pinion angle could also be off.

The LCA's with poly bushings PLUS the LCA relocation brackets are what gets it to hook on accel and shifting. Just my $0.02.
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Old 05-03-2010, 06:55 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JDWalton
wow, you went over 4k posts before looking up wheelhop! That must be some kind of record. As others have said though, first part is usualy LCA, then UCA and relo brakcets.
Don't be a dikhead, I've made less than 100 posts in here
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:10 PM
  #15  
Lupo222
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Originally Posted by 90stang5.0
If your car is lowered and you DON'T have an adjustable panhard bar, then your differential may be shifted to one side slightly and that could be causing the rear to kick out. Also without adjustable UCA or LCA, your pinion angle could also be off.

The LCA's with poly bushings PLUS the LCA relocation brackets are what gets it to hook on accel and shifting. Just my $0.02.
So I need an adjustable panhard bar as well? I thought it was just runnin 255 tires in the rear (haven't changed em since I bought the car 2 months ago).

ok, panhard bar (adjustable?? are they all adjustable?) and an LCA with relo brackets. Then if that doesn't work, i'll get UCA.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by baddog671
Don't be a dikhead, I've made less than 100 posts in here

Ummm... your being a ******** right now... I made a observations based off your post count at 4,411 that was meant as a joke, as it is funny unless I know that somone had handed you a account with 4,300 posts...

That aside I also gave you straight forward advice on a logical patern of parts, instead of being a ******** and telling you to learn how to use the freaking search button.

I'll go one step further just for you though, cause god forbid someone can assume that a person is posting as themself instead of making there own account.

http://tinyurl.com/23gnb72

yeah, I'm the ******** here.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:26 PM
  #17  
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Don't get all butthurt JD
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:34 PM
  #18  
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well dont be a tool when people are trying to help you.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:37 PM
  #19  
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Gotcha. LCA's will be on my list of "need to buy"
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Lupo222
So I need an adjustable panhard bar as well? I thought it was just runnin 255 tires in the rear (haven't changed em since I bought the car 2 months ago).

ok, panhard bar (adjustable?? are they all adjustable?) and an LCA with relo brackets. Then if that doesn't work, i'll get UCA.
No they are not all adjustable. Factory is not. I went with UMI, but others are also good. When the suspension is lowered, the stock length panhard bar will move the rear to the drivers side some because the body drops closer to the differential and the panhard bar is attached at one end to the frame and the other end to the diff. Not sure how much it moves, but will move some. Also by lowering, the pinion angle changes and that is where you need the adjustable UCA. But for traction, the LCA's and relocation brackets will help you out.

Anyway, some may disagree, but I believe when the car is lowered, you need these pieces to keep the rear aligned properly. When I break the tires loose on my car, the car stays straight and just spins, unless the road is slanted of course. Ed
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