Brake fluid swap questions
#1
Brake fluid swap questions
So today I had a.........hmmmm...... 'situation' on track (Road course).
The Brake fluid in my Brembo Calipers Boiled up and I had what you would call a "high speed off track excursion". No harm done, except to my underpants, so no foul.
I had those front calipers so Hot the 'heatproof' White Brembo decals are now a burnt Orange
So I want to renew the brake fluid in the whole system, I guess most of the fluid is original factory still. I know, my bad.
I'm totally cool with bleeding brakes but I have some quite specific S197 questions which might help me streamline the operation...
- What is the best order I should use for bleeding out the calipers or does it really not matter?
- Is each caliper serviced by it's own line from the ABS unit or is it a dual system? (Diagonally opposite calipers for one ABS line)..
- I know it's an old question, but what is the current thinking regarding DOT3/4 fluids for track use?
I had a number of guys declare that the Ford OEM DOT3 stuff is perfectly adequate but would appreciate some more input.
The Brake fluid in my Brembo Calipers Boiled up and I had what you would call a "high speed off track excursion". No harm done, except to my underpants, so no foul.
I had those front calipers so Hot the 'heatproof' White Brembo decals are now a burnt Orange
So I want to renew the brake fluid in the whole system, I guess most of the fluid is original factory still. I know, my bad.
I'm totally cool with bleeding brakes but I have some quite specific S197 questions which might help me streamline the operation...
- What is the best order I should use for bleeding out the calipers or does it really not matter?
- Is each caliper serviced by it's own line from the ABS unit or is it a dual system? (Diagonally opposite calipers for one ABS line)..
- I know it's an old question, but what is the current thinking regarding DOT3/4 fluids for track use?
I had a number of guys declare that the Ford OEM DOT3 stuff is perfectly adequate but would appreciate some more input.
#3
You should match your pads to your driving and your fluid to your pads. What pads are you running at the track? A lot of track people run ATE Superblue fluid. The boiling points on it are 388*F wet and 536*F without water contamination. I just bought some for my car, but haven't had a chance to swap it yet. Anyone know how to flush the fluid out of the clutch line as well?
#5
You should match your pads to your driving and your fluid to your pads. What pads are you running at the track? A lot of track people run ATE Superblue fluid. The boiling points on it are 388*F wet and 536*F without water contamination. I just bought some for my car, but haven't had a chance to swap it yet. Anyone know how to flush the fluid out of the clutch line as well?
I'm very hard on the brakes, very much a late brake artist running deep into the turn entry. Additionally I tend to trail brake into a particularly high speed turn to keep the car settled. I've been working on the car this Winter adding a watts linkage which is getting me out of turns quicker and enabling me to attain higher entry speeds into the next turn and running Nitto NT05's as opposed to last years Nitto 555's, these allow me to lean on the brakes ever more.
It's all working though, I'm 2 secs faster on a 1:25 course than my previous best. I am struggling to think there's much more in her at this point timewise.
Last edited by marcuskeeler; 05-17-2010 at 08:29 AM.
#6
I'm no expert, but since that is a street/track pad, I think the Superblue will be enough fluid for you. If you are scared of boiling the ate superblue, the motul brake fluid has a slightly higher boiling point, but costs about 4 times more.
#7
Oh believe me, I've taken 'being scared' to a completely new level after hammering into the 110 degree first corner at 180kmh+ and my brake pedal hitting the carpet..........
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