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Old 10-22-2015, 03:03 PM
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Replacing Brake Pads & Rotors

Old 06-08-2010, 05:03 PM
  #11  
HT
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If you go to O'Reilly, they rent parts for free, essentially. Basically, they charge you for the part, which in this case is like $60, which is ridiculous, but it doesn't matter, and then when you return it you get it all back. The brake tool from my local O'Reilly was brand new when I used it, so basically I have a free tool whenever I need it.

I don't know if they all do it this way, maybe I'm just lucky and have a nice O'Reilly haha.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:51 PM
  #12  
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I bought the rear caliper tool from Harbor Freight for only $10, it was on sale, usually $20 bucks.

https://mustangforums.com/articles/2...tang.html#more
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:29 PM
  #13  
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Got the caliper piston tool at HF for like $10...

So, jacked the car up, wheel off and ready to go... cannot get the two bolts on the back of the caliper off for the life of me. I'm no weakling, those f'ers are ON there. (Rust and such I'd imagine so) UGH
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:17 PM
  #14  
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Try some bolt grease. Comes in a can and its like WD40. They are hard as hell to get off. Then, take a wrench, put it in place, and hit it with a hammer. It's hard to get to but after a while it will shock loose and be able to be turned.
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:37 PM
  #15  
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Got them off with lots of elbow grease. Everything's off and the new brackets, pads and rotors are on. Calipers don't seem like they want to go back on like they're too small
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:00 PM
  #16  
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Push the pistons in further if you cant slide the caliper over the pads. The spring clips on the top of the rear brake pads also provide a good amount of resistance when trying to put the caliper back on. I usually push down on one side and get one bolt started, then hold down the other side and thread the other bolt in. Pay close attention to the spring clips as they like to move around during install.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:59 PM
  #17  
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As someone had already mentioned, you have to line up the face of the piston so the notch fits into the pin on the back side of the in-board brake pad.

Here's a thread that may help.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...rake-pads.html
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:59 PM
  #18  
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I noticed you have a 2005 Mustang. If your brake fluid has never been flushed you better make sure you do this. You can put new rotors and pads on your car, but if the fluid is old and absorbed water (turned from golden color to brown/black) it's a MUST to change it. I just did mine tonight. I have a 2008 with 30,000 miles and my fluid was extremely dark. Imagine what yours looks like after 5 years. My 2004 Lincoln Town car has never been changed and the fluid is black, not good. The brakes feel spongy like a ragged out car. I'm changing the fluid in it tomorrow.

Long story short, change the fluid or your money investment is worthless and braking will not improve. Also, you can mail order ATE SuperBlue fluid, or if you need it ASAP go to Pep Boys and buy Castrol GTLMA brake fluid. It works well, and can be had for 8.99 per liter. If you flush it well expect to use 1.5 liters. The reservoir on the Mustang is large.

Last edited by Unleashedbeast; 06-08-2010 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:21 PM
  #19  
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Well it's two hours after the fact, but if you're still having trouble, just make sure the piston is pushed back all the way, but keeping in mind to have the two notches lined up the correct way. Then like said before, push down on the caliper and get one bolt started, then push the other side on and start that bolt.

Hope you got it man.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:32 PM
  #20  
ronniegibson1978
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i do too lol...this brake problem gives alot of ppl a PIA
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