Gear Install..WHAT THE HELL? PLS HELP!
#41
Waiting for a ride to go get the break cleaner
But again... could this below possibly have happened:
since it has been raining here lately... if i drove through water that the water could have got the DRIED oil that was on the parts wet and made it seem as if there was a leak.
Is there usually oil on the outside of the seal RIGHT and around the areas after the install?
But again... could this below possibly have happened:
since it has been raining here lately... if i drove through water that the water could have got the DRIED oil that was on the parts wet and made it seem as if there was a leak.
Is there usually oil on the outside of the seal RIGHT and around the areas after the install?
It's not a big deal. You won't loose all your gear oil and probably not enough to do any damage on your trip back to the shop.
#42
Bought the break cleaner but now it's raining.
Gonna have to wait till it stops and dries so no puddles I'm guessing in the morning.
moosestang:
Thanks for the help!
I hope they didn't use the original seal.
I asked them to get a master install kit with the gears and I thought the kit came with that.
Am I wrong?
Gonna have to wait till it stops and dries so no puddles I'm guessing in the morning.
moosestang:
Thanks for the help!
I hope they didn't use the original seal.
I asked them to get a master install kit with the gears and I thought the kit came with that.
Am I wrong?
Last edited by bilbob2; 07-03-2010 at 06:57 PM.
#44
yikes... I thought your speedo was just off and you were worried that you might have still had the 3.55s in place, didn't know about the leak/problems.. glad you didn't take my advice from my last post lol
#45
I was wondering if maybe those parts did not get new ones on the car.
But I thought that these came with the master install kit that has new bearings and all..... which I told them to order and I was charged for.
Am I wrong about them coming with the kit?
On another note... the car will be there when they open in the morning.
Fun stuff spending the holiday doing this.
I don't care though... I just need the car fixed.
#47
Crush sleeve has nothing to do with the oil leak, it's the seal. The crush sleeve is now crushed however and a new one is required to get the proper pinion preload. A good pinion seal and the slinger should remedy your problem.
#48
Took it back.
Yes three hours I drove.
Shop said they could not find a leak and thought the oil on there was leftover from the install or some initial seepage.
They had me drive the car for 30 min.
I did and we did not see any fluid.
They fixed the tune issue and I drove home. Got halfway there.. checked it again.
No leak. Felt greasy though.. but it did a little after they cleaned it.
Got all the way home... same thing.
This morning... same thing.
But I had a guy that works at a dealership... who looked at it the first time and spotted it told me he said he did not see how that was left over and not a leak.
He said that sometimes it takes a good while for the buildup to happen because so little leaks out at a time. (he was saying up to a week)
So I guess I am going to check it for the next week and see what it looks like.
Yes three hours I drove.
Shop said they could not find a leak and thought the oil on there was leftover from the install or some initial seepage.
They had me drive the car for 30 min.
I did and we did not see any fluid.
They fixed the tune issue and I drove home. Got halfway there.. checked it again.
No leak. Felt greasy though.. but it did a little after they cleaned it.
Got all the way home... same thing.
This morning... same thing.
But I had a guy that works at a dealership... who looked at it the first time and spotted it told me he said he did not see how that was left over and not a leak.
He said that sometimes it takes a good while for the buildup to happen because so little leaks out at a time. (he was saying up to a week)
So I guess I am going to check it for the next week and see what it looks like.
#49
I bet when you did the calculations for those revs/mile that you did not correct for tire circumferential compression where it passes through contact with the road.
None of the online tire rpm or speed calculators I've ever seen do, because while the people who put them together certainly mean well, they don't understand enough about tires to know that this effect even exists. Let alone have a feel for how much of a correction is required. I know of exactly one other person who has worked a correction into his personal spreadsheet - and although his factor was good he did not understand the reason that it was necessary.
I'm not surprised that I don't see mention of this yet in this thread. Again, no flame intended, because this effect is not something that many people are even aware of.
No, it isn't the same as using "loaded radius" in the simplified formula instead of "outside diameter", either.
For most tires, actual revs/mile is about 3.5% more revs per mile than calculating from tire OD gives. 3.5% more than your 756 is either 782 or 783 depending on whether you multiply by 1.035 or divide by 0.965. That should settle the matter of what the revs/mile for 275/40-18 tires are and what you should be entering into your tuner.
I can point you toward a very technical published reference if you need better proof than you think I'm good for on my own merit.
Does this help you any? Enough to keep you from pulling the diff cover?
Norm
None of the online tire rpm or speed calculators I've ever seen do, because while the people who put them together certainly mean well, they don't understand enough about tires to know that this effect even exists. Let alone have a feel for how much of a correction is required. I know of exactly one other person who has worked a correction into his personal spreadsheet - and although his factor was good he did not understand the reason that it was necessary.
I'm not surprised that I don't see mention of this yet in this thread. Again, no flame intended, because this effect is not something that many people are even aware of.
No, it isn't the same as using "loaded radius" in the simplified formula instead of "outside diameter", either.
For most tires, actual revs/mile is about 3.5% more revs per mile than calculating from tire OD gives. 3.5% more than your 756 is either 782 or 783 depending on whether you multiply by 1.035 or divide by 0.965. That should settle the matter of what the revs/mile for 275/40-18 tires are and what you should be entering into your tuner.
I can point you toward a very technical published reference if you need better proof than you think I'm good for on my own merit.
Does this help you any? Enough to keep you from pulling the diff cover?
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-18-2010 at 01:38 PM.
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