dkersten

100% agree. If you test a product, you need to test apples to apples, and even better if you start with a level playing field.

1) Drive car until tank is empty
2) Fill with 91/93 premium fuel (2011 will get more power from higher octane after it adjusts to it)
3) Drive for a while to make sure stock programming is giving max power.
4) Dyno
5) Tune car for max power. Most bolt ons only need a tune for adjusting to new equipment, the power is only affected by AF ratio, Timing advance, and cam timing (on new 5.0). Once you get the most from those, they shouldn't change unless you change the MAF sensor itself.. The MAF table will change if the MAF housing changes, but the AF ratio will stay the same.. find the max AF and timing advance.
6) Dyno. You have now established the max power capable of the stock motor on 93 octane fuel.
7) Add a part. One part, not 3 or 4.
8) Add adjustments to tune for item you added (ie adjust MAF table for CAI, O2 sensor timing for LT headers, or change ratio for gears, etc)
9) Dyno again.

Bottom line is by doing this you determine what the actual power gain from a given item is rather than adding timing or leaning the AF ratio and saying the gain came from the item. Usually, the gains will be minimal. Changing just an intake, or a manifold, or the heads, or a TB, or cams, or headers will usually not gain too much as the stock setup is designed for optimal air flow with those stock components. Changing one will not flow much more air, and hence will not add power. Obviously with a cam change, the cam timing needs to be adjusted, and that is something you can't avoid. Plus, with a cam change, the amount you can advance timing might change, so tuning for cams can add power over a maxed tune with stock cams. However, given that your AF ratio or displacement of the cylinder does not change, the only other way to get more power is to get more air into the cylinder. To get more in, you might have to get more out, which means headers. Heads, Intake Manifold, Throttle Body, and Cold Air Intake will all affect it as well, but you can only go so far with that, and without the cams to open the valves longer/more your gains there will be minimal as well. All this has to be taken into account when testing the performance gain of any bolt on product.

Rocket Ray

I believe this was gross SAE hp as measured back in the 60's as well. No alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, etc., measured at the flywheel. If it was measured like the make manufacturers do it nowadays, the numbers would be less.

bakerjd

...i think that would explain their numbers...wish they would've done it dkersten's way

Lupo222

I think that as far as Fords claims on the 40hp on the manifold, they claim that its actually a stroker motor I believe that they made the power on. It does say though that the motor was modded.

And as far as deception, I think thats why they showed the numbers and not to the dyno graphs because the graphs you'd SEE the terrible curve you get with the heads/cams/intake. I'm almost tempted to draw it out myself on a graph to see how bad the curve really is...

BruceH

You might want to look at this video before buying the new frpp intake.

Lupo222

OMG is that for real!?!?? Can you imagine what would happen with some boost!? WOW. Anybody with any fabrication knowledge know if thats safe????

BruceH

I copied and pasted the video link from the forum where it was originally posted. What's happening in that video is the intake is being sucked in during idle due to vacuum. When it's revved up the vacuum disappears enough that it returns to original size. The OP on that thread emailed the video to frpp. For now they are saying it's normal. I don't think anyone in their right mind would want that on their car.

bakerjd

when i heard about this i was pumped, 40+HP bolt on easy...now there is no way i'd do it...dammit ford, lol

stealth_GT

I bet the C&L racer intake manifold doesn't do that lol

Lupo222

well I hope they fix it. I won't buy one with it doing that. C&L,,,maybe,,,,