mods/emissions Q's
So I have finally decided to start modding my GT. I don’t want to get too crazy but thinking about starting off with a CAI and pypes-pype bomb axle back. Since I live in AZ, and emissions are pretty strict, I was originally planning on getting the K&N CAI since it didn’t require a tune. After reading more about CAI, it seems that if you don’t tune, then the CAI isn’t really worth the money. My question is, does anyone think that a CAI with a tune would cause a problem with emissions? If so, would uninstalling the CAI and doing a disconnect/reconnect of the battery be enough to reset the ECU?
That way AZ tests newer cars for emissions is by plugging their machine directly into the cars ECU. (I know the pypes-pype bombs will probably fail emissions too since they don’t have mufflers, but I can deal with uninstalling and reinstalling those every 2 years)
That way AZ tests newer cars for emissions is by plugging their machine directly into the cars ECU. (I know the pypes-pype bombs will probably fail emissions too since they don’t have mufflers, but I can deal with uninstalling and reinstalling those every 2 years)
I have a CAI & a Bama tune on my 6 and it didn't pass emissions here in PA. It said the systems weren't ready and I needed to do a drive cycle. I put the stock airbox on, tuned it to stock, drove it about 40 mi or so and it passed no problem. Some tuners can write tunes just for emissions so that you don't have to take it all off. But it's well worth it
They do the OBDII test here in central Texas. I passed with C&L racer intake, longtube headers and full exhaust including hi-flow catted h-pipe and straight thru style mufflers.
The main thing you have to look at to pass the OBDII 'readiness' test is to have all of your emissions controls enabled, mainly the O2 sensors. Many tunes disable the rear O2 sensors and longtube headers/hi flow cats exascerbate the problems by moving the cats further away from the longtube headers which by nature take longer to warm up and get the cats functioning effectively.
I added extenders onto my rear O2 sensors which lift them out of hte exhaust stream and 'fool' the computer into thinking the cats are working effectively.
Now if they sniff the tailpipe thats another problem...
The main thing you have to look at to pass the OBDII 'readiness' test is to have all of your emissions controls enabled, mainly the O2 sensors. Many tunes disable the rear O2 sensors and longtube headers/hi flow cats exascerbate the problems by moving the cats further away from the longtube headers which by nature take longer to warm up and get the cats functioning effectively.
I added extenders onto my rear O2 sensors which lift them out of hte exhaust stream and 'fool' the computer into thinking the cats are working effectively.
Now if they sniff the tailpipe thats another problem...
luckily, here in AZ, they only use the sniffers for the older cars. The newer cars are all electrical.
Thanks for all the info everyone. I didnt realize how easy it was to tune back to the original settings. I might skip the CAI all together and just get a hand held tune.
luckily, here in AZ, they only use the sniffers for the older cars. The newer cars are all electrical.
Thanks for all the info everyone. I didnt realize how easy it was to tune back to the original settings. I might skip the CAI all together and just get a hand held tune.
Thanks for all the info everyone. I didnt realize how easy it was to tune back to the original settings. I might skip the CAI all together and just get a hand held tune.
Whoever you buy the CAI and Tune from just asked them to write you an emission tune you won't have to take the stuff off just program the car to that tune drive easy for about 25 miles and go pass your emissions test. Then reprogram the car back to the performance tune.
How do you think the guys with superchargers pass you think we are pulling those off every 2 years.
Last edited by Analyzer52; Aug 27, 2010 at 10:33 AM.



