doodad

Well, I [put new OEM replacement rotors up front and got duralast gold ceramic pads, but the pads were just too THICK to slide on the rotor. I LITERALLY sand papered 50% of the thread to get them fit.

Can anyone tell me what is going on here?

And yes, I did compress the pistons with a C-clamp all the way.

Thanks

doodad

anyone????

dysan

When you compressed the pistons, did you open the bleeder valve? If not you may be able to compress them more.

doodad

I always remove the cap from the master cylinder so there wont be any pressures and yes i pushed them all the way back. The problem is, the pad siting by the pistons wasnt the issue. The outside pad was giving me trouble. The pad by the pistons was sitting propery all the way in and there were no contact to the rotor upon install since i pushed the pistons all the way in. I dont know hopw to explain, the damn pad was too thick and i had to grind 50% of the thread to get it fit.

SCCAGT

Opening the bleeder is messy and unneccessary. The fluid simply goes back to the reservoir and raises the level.

As far as the clearance issue, dont know what advice to offer without seeing it. The choice of pads isnt what I would use at my shop though. Not an AutoZone fan at all. Wagner Thermo-Quiet is my pick. Next time you get to the brakes, make sure the piston is damn near flush with the caliper. There should be virtually nothing poking out of the caliper.

157dB

Did you do a side be side comparason of the OEM and
the new OEM rotors for any differences that could
be seen?
Are these Genuine Ford OEMs or parts store replacement
OEM 'type'?
Are the rotor thicknesses the same?
Is the mounting surface offset the same
from the old OEM to the new OEM?

What 'thread' did you sand?
Explain this to me....
Brakes are nothing to be modifying to get things to fit.
Bad news Charlie Brown....

Bleeders never need to opened during the pad replacement procedure.
FAIL.
Neither do brake fluid reservoir caps. They are internally vented.

doodad

Check this pic out first and then read below:






Ok pad number 2 is pressed all the way in, not even in contact with the rotor upon installation. The problem is, the space between the "WALL" and "pad number 2" is too narrow for the rotor to slide right in between. Does that make sense?

I had to grind the pad about 50% to get it wide enough to slide the rotor in between.

The rotor is an OEM replacement, so are the pads. WTF is going on here? I have done brakes many times before and never had this problem before. I did push the pistons all the way back in and it wasnt the issue. distance between the "wall" and "pad # 2" is too narrow.

Thanks for any inputs.

doodad

I didnt compare side by side because the bad rotors were eaten alive, no thread left almost. These did feel heavier. I bought them on ebay "OEM type"

I sanded the brake pads' thread it was very thick, so i sanded it down 50% and then i was able to slide them on.

doodad

anyone????

kevinmalec

I would suggest calling the place where you ordered the OEM rotors from and make sure they sent the correct ones.
Here's size info I located on New Take Off website.

2005-2009 Mustang GT Front Brake Rotors 12 1/2" R/L (Pair)

http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_gt...2009_pair.aspx