What is wrong with my car?
12-10-2010, 09:57 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 1,277
I have been trying to get answers from my dealer and I have also posted the question on the forum but have not received a reply. Being new to this forum I am not sure I am actually posting to the right area.
The tail pipe on the drivers side, between the muffler and Cad is a flat area about 2 ft long 3/8 inch deep on the bottom of the pipe. It looks as if it is a machined pressed flat area. It has nothing to do with passing thru anything and the other tail pipe for the other side is normal. It is on my new just purchased 2011 V6 (factory duel pipes all the way). I did not hit anything and does not look like an accidental flattened area. Is this a normal flattened area from the factory? Does any other 2011 V6's have the same thing?
The tail pipe on the drivers side, between the muffler and Cad is a flat area about 2 ft long 3/8 inch deep on the bottom of the pipe. It looks as if it is a machined pressed flat area. It has nothing to do with passing thru anything and the other tail pipe for the other side is normal. It is on my new just purchased 2011 V6 (factory duel pipes all the way). I did not hit anything and does not look like an accidental flattened area. Is this a normal flattened area from the factory? Does any other 2011 V6's have the same thing?
On a serious note, did you go looking because you were experiencing a problem or just noticed it for some other reason? If you are have a problem I would take it to the dealership... If no problems, it may be like you suggested, machine pressed at the exhaust manufacturer. You said you have not hit anything, the only thing that comes to my mind is maybe when the vehicle was loaded/unloaded off the transporter, it might have made contact with the ramps, but then I would think you would notice scrapes on the rocker panels, etc... Probably nothing and I can only speculate, but hopefully this was by design... Start a new thread and let us know...
Don
12-11-2010, 11:51 AM
#12
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 13
Flat Area on left tail pipe.
I went back to the dealer and had them place a new 2011 Mustang V6 on a rack so we could take a look. It had the same thing Flattened area top and bottom of the pipe about 2 ft long, 3/8 inch deep top and bottom. This is quite a large restriction of the exhaust flow. I have gone to the expense of placing Magnaflow street exhaust allow less restriction of the exhaust and improve performance along with MPG. This is a big screw up and for no reason. Ordering a new tail pipe would only result in getting another one the same way. I have gone to Ford for a correction, but doubt the will do anything. I can have it cut out and and have a piece put in. From our examination of the V6 it looks as if all are that way.
I discovered it from having it up to replace the muffler with the magnaflow. BTW was easy to install, fit perfectly and sounds great!
I discovered it from having it up to replace the muffler with the magnaflow. BTW was easy to install, fit perfectly and sounds great!
12-11-2010, 04:32 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 484
It's the alternator my friend. I just went through this not too long ago. Do yourself a favor and get a PA Performance replacement, the oem alternators have a reputation for going out on you. You didn't happen to just put a set of Underdrive Pulleys on did you?
12-20-2010, 09:50 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 229
Dealer says alternator is good
Did the front bumper, grill upgrade and wired the fogs via a relay into the junction box under the hood and switched off the low beam wire. Not long afterwards, the original battery died so I replaced it and that was around October. 3 days ago the new(autozone Duralast Gold) battery went dead while driving the car. I had the lights, heater and radio on so I quickly shut everything unnecessary off and tried to rev the engine above 1500 rpm in an attempt to keep the car running. I made it about 10 minutes before the whole thing shut down on me. Went back to autozone (fortunately it was about a block away and my wife was able to pick me up) and they tested the battery. They said the battery was good it just needed a charge. I bought another one just like it to get me home and installed it. Brought the car back to autozone (they insisted on checking the alternator) and the guy put the test unit on the battery and said the alternator wasn't charging the battery. Anyway I took his word for it and went home. Took the vehicle to the dealer this morning and had them check the system and they claim the alternator is fine. I've never noticed water on the floor of the car, nor have I ever seen it leak into the passenger area. I'm wondering if the same alternator is being used on the V6 pony packages is the same one as the standard Mustangs. The alternator starts charging above 1500 rpm so I'm wondering if my jaunts to work are not enough to keep the battery charged with the fogs, radio and whatever else is on. Anyway, I'm looking to put a voltage gauge and possibly a ammeter seeing how you can't tell what is going on until its too late and the radio displays a 'Low Battery' notice. Maybe a lower RPM alternator would be an alternative?
12-20-2010, 10:07 AM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
Iīm running HIDīs (factory for CS @ 5400lu), a carpc with an E8400 core 2 duo (85watts for the processor alone), peripherals and fairly high wattage amps. I start my car in the morning and leave it for sometimes a half hour, idles far below that.
Of course you have to be using an alternator that can cope, usually being say 30% over-production of what your drain is I think is the standard rule of thumb. But my stock one is still well above it even with all the after-market stuff Iīve tacked on. Still sounds like an alternator issue in one sense or another, either that it canīt charge, isnīt sensing the voltage correctly to charge at times, or the bearings are beginning to fail entirely. Many times when they fail it isnīt that theyīve died, itīs more that theyīll work ok for a bit, then stop, then work, etc..
It could also be as simple as a corroded ground for the alternator itself. Iīd check the grounding lead first before the next jaunt out. For a few simplistic tests and examples, see here.
Last edited by wayne613; 12-20-2010 at 10:25 AM.
12-20-2010, 10:18 AM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Acworth,Ga.
Posts: 812
12-20-2010, 10:30 AM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 229
For a complete answer you may wish to register and ask on the12volt.com forum. However, Iīve not heard of that. And my carīs battery would be dead many a time over were that the case.
Iīm running HIDīs (factory for CS @ 5400lu), a carpc with an E8400 core 2 duo (85watts for the processor alone), peripherals and fairly high wattage amps. I start my car in the morning and leave it for sometimes a half hour, idles far below that.
Of course you have to be using an alternator that can cope, usually being say 30% over-production of what your drain is I think is the standard rule of thumb. But my stock one is still well above it even with all the after-market stuff Iīve tacked on. Still sounds like an alternator issue in one sense or another, either that it canīt charge, or isnīt sensing the voltage correctly to charge at times. Many times when they fail it isnīt that theyīve died, itīs more that theyīll work ok for a bit, then stop, then work, etc..
It could also be as simple as a corroded ground for the alternator itself. Iīd check the grounding lead first before the next jaunt out. For a few simplistic tests and examples, see here.
Iīm running HIDīs (factory for CS @ 5400lu), a carpc with an E8400 core 2 duo (85watts for the processor alone), peripherals and fairly high wattage amps. I start my car in the morning and leave it for sometimes a half hour, idles far below that.
Of course you have to be using an alternator that can cope, usually being say 30% over-production of what your drain is I think is the standard rule of thumb. But my stock one is still well above it even with all the after-market stuff Iīve tacked on. Still sounds like an alternator issue in one sense or another, either that it canīt charge, or isnīt sensing the voltage correctly to charge at times. Many times when they fail it isnīt that theyīve died, itīs more that theyīll work ok for a bit, then stop, then work, etc..
It could also be as simple as a corroded ground for the alternator itself. Iīd check the grounding lead first before the next jaunt out. For a few simplistic tests and examples, see here.
12-20-2010, 10:40 AM
#18
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
I hate to say it, but the fastest and easiest way to get them to deal with it would be to start throwing in metal shavings to the thing.
Joking in the sense of actually doing it, but realistic in the sense the only way theyīll deal with it is if they can see it themselves that itīs failing/failed. Which means if itīs intermittent, and you canīt replicate it for them, your screwed til it finally totally bites it. And you could single-handedly keep Die-Hard batteries in business with a 10point stock market raise for an indefinite period until that occurs.
Although, being a nag works more often then not, Iīd just keep bringing it in til they cave. Maybe that Ford Customer Service guy will spot this thread later and chime in. Put in a dealer pimp-slap or two to speed the process.
Joking in the sense of actually doing it, but realistic in the sense the only way theyīll deal with it is if they can see it themselves that itīs failing/failed. Which means if itīs intermittent, and you canīt replicate it for them, your screwed til it finally totally bites it. And you could single-handedly keep Die-Hard batteries in business with a 10point stock market raise for an indefinite period until that occurs.
Although, being a nag works more often then not, Iīd just keep bringing it in til they cave. Maybe that Ford Customer Service guy will spot this thread later and chime in. Put in a dealer pimp-slap or two to speed the process.
Last edited by wayne613; 12-20-2010 at 10:55 AM.
12-20-2010, 02:10 PM
#19
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 84
After running some tests with a voltmeter I confirmed it was likely the alternator so I went and picked up an ultima alternator from oreillys auto parts for about $200. Installed it myself, used a charger to charge my battery back up (it was down to about 10.5v). Fired up fine and has been running strong for a week now.
thanks guys
thanks guys
