Iluminated Door Sill Plates - Self modified....
03-18-2011, 06:21 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 59
Iluminated Door Sill Plates - Self modified....
Hi,
I imagine you would like to be here my last project, the change in my not so beautiful door sills. (Scratches on the emblem already by the previous owner)
I was about to realize as much effect and good looking for me with a little charge. ( I think 30 $ is enough)
Maybe someone here in the forum likes to do something too. I try as much as possible to describe, but i can not explain all the technical procedures.
Chronological description of my work:
1. Replace the relatively thin aluminum emblem of skirts. This is to do best by using a strong hair dryer. Aluminum plate heat well and gently pry the top and bottom with a plastic spatula. (Not from the sides, the risk of bending is too high) If the plate is off, remove adhesive residue all good.
2. Alphabet jigsaw saw out and take them all well, so as to produce clean edges. Correct everything with small files.
3. Aluemblem grind properly and spray surface with Aluminium Pre-Coating. Then spray paint in several layers. If you want a more stable surface ist better to to grind (800 or higher) the paint and spray hard clear paint.
4. Plexiglas (Acrylic Glass) plate get blue clear 3mm and rectangles according to the letter saw out with jigsaw (size: letter + 2mm overhang) Then comes a special part that corresponds to the actual later desired effect of "Twinkling" or the look of old car lights. So one side of the Plexiglas rectangles with a checkering file (I use this normaly for gun shafts) editing, creating a honeycomb pattern with peaks. That looks like a knurling and means that the light is refracted at different points.
5. Plexiglas rectangles with Epoxy glue to the inside of the letters. Take care that no glue is visible from the outside. If something comes out, its removable in a given time frame.
6. Now comes the LED installation. I've used Clear blue LED's with 1.8 mm size, since they have a relatively strong light at low size. First you have to glue the two conductors parallel to the Plexiglas rectangles, so you can easily solder the LED's in them. I used a total of 21 LED's per emblem, 3 each in series with 150 ohm series resistor. This arrangement results in the lowest possible power consumption of about 150 mAh per page. Now the LED's are with your Sun resistors soldered to it in an angle of 20 degrees to the corners seem to be the emblems. This has the best effect. Of course, little space between the rectangles, that is all a bit of fiddling, so not for those without patience. Then the spaces filled with hot glue so that no light can move everything and everything is insulated top. But careful with the hot glue, the LED's do not tolerate too much heat, so in stages.
7. Now the door sills in the area of rectangles is cut so that everything fits nicely. It is important to an overall height of about 6-7mm from the bottom of Aluemblems to the inside of the sill is not exceeded, then it fits. The Aluemblem is now with the assembly line, in my case around 3 layers, each 1 mm thick bonded to the plastic skirts. I recommend this car assembly line foamed. The emblem is for me only slightly higher than before.
8. Then, the plastic skirts in the cable connection is somewhat sophisticated, so that a cable run inside. This then soldered to the contact strips and neatly through Insulating tubes to the outside. I have used AMP plugs, as they are very good and you can expand easily at any time the sill.
Then tape over the bottom of the sill with a good tape and fabric tape. I have the soldering of the LED's, it bears noting that only plastic parts from the LED are the highest, so it is never possible for a current-carrying part can affect the body work.
9. In the bay I've tailored chrome trim strip concerned (5mm), suitable pieces processed, adapted and filled with mounting tape to the wells. Then the chrome trim pieces glued on. Importantly very good assembly line is used, no DIY stuff. Innot .... is optimal.
10. Finally, the wiring in the car. I have tapped into the ceiling console, + is the black and blue - the light green-yellow cable. spread from there to the two door sills. This can be found in the harness that goes right up.
The burden on the SJB that controls even the ceiling lights as low as possible, as I said the LED's have arranged in series. I have a current flow of about 300 mAh for both door sills. That is just 3.6 W, which is usually not a risk to the SJB. Since I wanted to have minimized the risk still further, I have 2 St. 5W5 LED lamps used in the ceiling plate (3 times as bright). This only consume about 1 W per unit and thus the total charge for the SJB less than before.
One can of course implement the lighting with luminescent films that achieve a planar light like LCD backlighting. I wanted to achieve a particular effect.
Here are some pictures of my work:
I imagine you would like to be here my last project, the change in my not so beautiful door sills. (Scratches on the emblem already by the previous owner)
I was about to realize as much effect and good looking for me with a little charge. ( I think 30 $ is enough)
Maybe someone here in the forum likes to do something too. I try as much as possible to describe, but i can not explain all the technical procedures.
Chronological description of my work:
1. Replace the relatively thin aluminum emblem of skirts. This is to do best by using a strong hair dryer. Aluminum plate heat well and gently pry the top and bottom with a plastic spatula. (Not from the sides, the risk of bending is too high) If the plate is off, remove adhesive residue all good.
2. Alphabet jigsaw saw out and take them all well, so as to produce clean edges. Correct everything with small files.
3. Aluemblem grind properly and spray surface with Aluminium Pre-Coating. Then spray paint in several layers. If you want a more stable surface ist better to to grind (800 or higher) the paint and spray hard clear paint.
4. Plexiglas (Acrylic Glass) plate get blue clear 3mm and rectangles according to the letter saw out with jigsaw (size: letter + 2mm overhang) Then comes a special part that corresponds to the actual later desired effect of "Twinkling" or the look of old car lights. So one side of the Plexiglas rectangles with a checkering file (I use this normaly for gun shafts) editing, creating a honeycomb pattern with peaks. That looks like a knurling and means that the light is refracted at different points.
5. Plexiglas rectangles with Epoxy glue to the inside of the letters. Take care that no glue is visible from the outside. If something comes out, its removable in a given time frame.
6. Now comes the LED installation. I've used Clear blue LED's with 1.8 mm size, since they have a relatively strong light at low size. First you have to glue the two conductors parallel to the Plexiglas rectangles, so you can easily solder the LED's in them. I used a total of 21 LED's per emblem, 3 each in series with 150 ohm series resistor. This arrangement results in the lowest possible power consumption of about 150 mAh per page. Now the LED's are with your Sun resistors soldered to it in an angle of 20 degrees to the corners seem to be the emblems. This has the best effect. Of course, little space between the rectangles, that is all a bit of fiddling, so not for those without patience. Then the spaces filled with hot glue so that no light can move everything and everything is insulated top. But careful with the hot glue, the LED's do not tolerate too much heat, so in stages.
7. Now the door sills in the area of rectangles is cut so that everything fits nicely. It is important to an overall height of about 6-7mm from the bottom of Aluemblems to the inside of the sill is not exceeded, then it fits. The Aluemblem is now with the assembly line, in my case around 3 layers, each 1 mm thick bonded to the plastic skirts. I recommend this car assembly line foamed. The emblem is for me only slightly higher than before.
8. Then, the plastic skirts in the cable connection is somewhat sophisticated, so that a cable run inside. This then soldered to the contact strips and neatly through Insulating tubes to the outside. I have used AMP plugs, as they are very good and you can expand easily at any time the sill.
Then tape over the bottom of the sill with a good tape and fabric tape. I have the soldering of the LED's, it bears noting that only plastic parts from the LED are the highest, so it is never possible for a current-carrying part can affect the body work.
9. In the bay I've tailored chrome trim strip concerned (5mm), suitable pieces processed, adapted and filled with mounting tape to the wells. Then the chrome trim pieces glued on. Importantly very good assembly line is used, no DIY stuff. Innot .... is optimal.
10. Finally, the wiring in the car. I have tapped into the ceiling console, + is the black and blue - the light green-yellow cable. spread from there to the two door sills. This can be found in the harness that goes right up.
The burden on the SJB that controls even the ceiling lights as low as possible, as I said the LED's have arranged in series. I have a current flow of about 300 mAh for both door sills. That is just 3.6 W, which is usually not a risk to the SJB. Since I wanted to have minimized the risk still further, I have 2 St. 5W5 LED lamps used in the ceiling plate (3 times as bright). This only consume about 1 W per unit and thus the total charge for the SJB less than before.
One can of course implement the lighting with luminescent films that achieve a planar light like LCD backlighting. I wanted to achieve a particular effect.
Here are some pictures of my work:
03-18-2011, 02:51 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 59
Hello together,
thanks very much for your acceptance!!
It was a lot of work, but i like to create special parts by myself. Its good for bad wheater days. And there are a lot here in winter times.
The Mustang is for me not only a car, its a hobby (or hobbyhorse) and every time i spend for this its worth. (I have more time than money)
Good for relaxing.
I think a lot of the members here can also create something like that...
Greetings from Germany
Mario
thanks very much for your acceptance!!
It was a lot of work, but i like to create special parts by myself. Its good for bad wheater days. And there are a lot here in winter times.
The Mustang is for me not only a car, its a hobby (or hobbyhorse) and every time i spend for this its worth. (I have more time than money)
Good for relaxing.
I think a lot of the members here can also create something like that...
Greetings from Germany
Mario
