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Axleback Exhaust Leaks

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Old 03-26-2011, 03:00 PM
  #11  
157dB
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Originally Posted by mapitts
How in the world is the muffler made??? I have been welding stainless steel pipe for a long time. A lot of it x-ray work in what is called lethal chemical service. That is totally incorrect.
The only difference I see is that with TIG welding, an inert gas (ARGON)
surrounds the red hot stainless steel during welding and heating up an
exhaust pipe to red hot before slipping the muffler on and tightening
the clamp is that the stainless steel is exposed to oxygen while
red hot. What ya thinks about that. Turn off your inert welding gas
and try a few welds and get back to me on the subject.

There is a BIG difference between T304 stainless and T409 stainless.

Last edited by 157dB; 03-30-2011 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:10 PM
  #12  
CutterWolf
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This is what type of clamp you need:



Once you crank it down your leak will be gone.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:01 PM
  #13  
pascal
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Originally Posted by mapitts
How in the world is the muffler made??? I have been welding stainless steel pipe for a long time. A lot of it x-ray work in what is called lethal chemical service. That is totally incorrect.
So true.

But it's like everything else... There is good quality and poor quality in every metal.
It applies to stainless steel when the mixture between Chromium and Nickel is a little off.
In that case it will be prone to corrosion (and fatigue) and it's called Oxygen Starvation.
I'm sure you know all that, being a welder and all.

I have seen some exhausts that didn't look so stainless after a while, lol.
Pitted and everything else, although it will never corrode as quick as regular steel or galvanized stuff.
Salt and chlorine will take its toll on stainless as well no matter what.
I also found out that using steel bolts on stainless hardware will cause corrosion on both metal when the regular steel bolts starts to break down and rust.

Oh, and 157db, you're full of it.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:59 AM
  #14  
smokestang
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Use a lap style band clamp like this http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...56861/10002/-1 ive used these with much success (especially with borlas)..sealed both ends with no leaks and held everything tight.. maybe give it a try.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:06 AM
  #15  
Tylus
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I think I found a solution.

went and drove around for awhile until the exhaust tips were burning to the touch. cranked down on the clamp

waited until she cooled off and then went driving around again. cranked down on the clamps again.


it took 3 trips, but I don't have anymore movement now. and the leak seems to have been sealed
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:28 AM
  #16  
mapitts
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Originally Posted by 157dB
The only difference I see is that with TIG welding, an inert gas (ARGON)
surrounds the red hot stainless steel during welding and heating up an
exhaust pipe to red hot before slipping the muffler on and tightening
the clamp is that the stainless steel is exposed to oxygen while
red hot. What ya thinks about that. Turn off your inert welding gas
and try a few welds and get back to me on the subject.

There is a BIG difference between 303 stainless and 409 stainless.
It is called SMAW (stick electrode). You go try that and get back to me.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:48 AM
  #17  
wcgman
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Originally Posted by Tylus
I think I found a solution.

went and drove around for awhile until the exhaust tips were burning to the touch. cranked down on the clamp

waited until she cooled off and then went driving around again. cranked down on the clamps again.


it took 3 trips, but I don't have anymore movement now. and the leak seems to have been sealed
Thats a hot tip...or is it cool? Either way, seems to make sense to me. You just cranking down as hard as you can then between the cycles?
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:11 PM
  #18  
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I was cranking down while the tips were burning hot. Waited for the exhaust to cool down to ambient and then went and got it all hot again by driving around.

When the metal cooled off it cinched down even tighter. After 3 times I couldn't get the bolts to move anymore and the noise is gone
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:21 PM
  #19  
howarmat
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Originally Posted by CutterWolf
This is what type of clamp you need:



Once you crank it down your leak will be gone.
this, problem solved lol....i used those on each of mine and no leaks for going on 5 years now with my stingers
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:42 PM
  #20  
pascal
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Originally Posted by howarmat
this, problem solved lol....i used those on each of mine and no leaks for going on 5 years now with my stingers
I don't always get a home run with those...
Especially if the outer pipe (like stainless) is harder that the inner one (plain regular steel).

Also, you might have silent leaks...
You don't always hear them.

Oh, and LOL @ 157db again with his post editing.
You're out of your league here dude, stick to electrical stuff.
Mmmmkay?

Last edited by pascal; 03-27-2011 at 08:49 PM.
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