To those who have built 4.6's... A little help
#11
I've had both. Talk to people that actually use their cars on the street and the strip. Get opinions from people who have been there and done that, not from those that are trying toget you to buy their product. I've had both, you know what I prefer and what I've seen work better.
When I had air/air I could get on the dyno and make the power. IAT's would be what they said. But driving around, making passes, racing, it's different than a dyno.
Rated to 900hp means it can flow that much air. Not that it will cool that much air . . .
If I was going t be running 8-10 psi and not going to the track, I may consider the air/air. But at the PSI level your are thinking about, the air charge climbs expotentially. Basically you will make IATs into the 150 degree range and the computer will pull all the timing.
When I had air/air I could get on the dyno and make the power. IAT's would be what they said. But driving around, making passes, racing, it's different than a dyno.
Rated to 900hp means it can flow that much air. Not that it will cool that much air . . .
If I was going t be running 8-10 psi and not going to the track, I may consider the air/air. But at the PSI level your are thinking about, the air charge climbs expotentially. Basically you will make IATs into the 150 degree range and the computer will pull all the timing.
#13
As for your blower,
Start looking at compressor maps. Just because Vortech says it is good to 20-22lbs, and it very well may be, your efficiency of the blower goes down as boost goes up.
Example,
If you're running 8lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 90%.
If your running 20lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 65%.
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Camp Lejeune, North Carolina and Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 470
none taken. i dont see how i will be less reliable if built right. plus when i got this car new, SEP 11 2008, i could afford it as an E-4 in germany. I got it as a platform to build off of as money became available. 29,000 out the door, put 20 down, paing 170 a month. im very happy with it thank you very much. and why have a heavy (by a small amount) iron 5.4 when i can have a fully built aluminum 5.0?
As for your mods, the B302 isn't aluminum as far as I know (I was looking at it too while i was in afghanistan a couple months ago) but it is the cheapest forged stroker i've found and I plan on swapping it in if I blow my motor with teh Saleen S/C im about to drop on it.
As far as a Shelby...not all of us have $35k to drop into a used shelby. I financed $10k of the $15k I paid for my stang and just have enough to do some nice mods after a deployment check...
#15
yes an army mechanic, now out of bragg. now in iraq. and only second deployment. what did you think of that little pay scare they had? pissed me off. prety sure the b302 is all new alum block.
#16
Water can pull the heat out of the charged air more efficiently.
As for your blower,
Start looking at compressor maps. Just because Vortech says it is good to 20-22lbs, and it very well may be, your efficiency of the blower goes down as boost goes up.
Example,
If you're running 8lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 90%.
If your running 20lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 65%.
As for your blower,
Start looking at compressor maps. Just because Vortech says it is good to 20-22lbs, and it very well may be, your efficiency of the blower goes down as boost goes up.
Example,
If you're running 8lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 90%.
If your running 20lbs of boost, your compressor efficiency might be 65%.
#17
Water also has the ability to cool the air charge to or below ambiant. When running water/air at the track, a larger tank can be placed in the vehicle that lets water circulate through it and ice can be put in there. The ice cools the water, water cools the air. Dense air is better and more timing can be ran which creates more power.
Even with the Vortech, a larger resevoir can be added to put ice into. It makes a huge difference. .3 and 3 mph in the quarter difference, sometime sup to .4 and 4 mph.
Our computers are very sensitive to IATs with the FI. Depending on how the tune is set up will depend on what temp the PCM pulls timing. You will start at X timing making Y horsepower, but as the IAt come up, the PCM pulls timing to 8 or so and you are making hardly any power.
I have no idea what your goals are, what your climate is like or if you will go to the track. If you want to have a fast car with a big dyno number, then you are on the right track. However, I may think of a larger Vortech. If you want a car with a big dyno number, and something you can go to the track with and rip off 10 second passes, consistantly, get the set up you have talked about and add an air/water IC with a resevoir for adding a little ice if you must.
Good luck
#18
my goals are to scare myself on the street, pull a tire on the track, and do it reliably and consistantly. what do you think about the H.O. kit with the upgraded heat exchanger off brenspeeds site? think thats the route i should go? will it keep me cool enough?
#19
Nothing wrong with an air to air intercooler though. It's a simple/basic and effective design..
#20
per vortechs site, the v3 max boost is 22psi, max hp is 775 with Peak Efficiency 78%, im sure i would be better off with a ysi or simmular, but i realy want to see what i can get maxing this out before i upgrade it seing as i already got 4g's into it and 8 hours of sweat.
Honestly, the V3 is a good sized blower but I still thin it'll be over spun at 22 psi.. I say, max it out and see what the numbers are if you're set on it...