When pushing past the "safe" zone
06-27-2011, 01:29 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 2,248
U will be fine with with your stock block and that supercharger. Just keep everything with in reason and upgrade as time and finances allows you too.
Not sure how mechanically inclined you are but if you ever swap out the motor for a 302. I believe its somewhere around 7k for the install, motor and all misc. stuff u will need.
Not sure how mechanically inclined you are but if you ever swap out the motor for a 302. I believe its somewhere around 7k for the install, motor and all misc. stuff u will need.
07-07-2011, 09:43 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 2,073
07-07-2011, 09:48 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,645
5th, being an overdrive gear, can tend to lug the engine a bit. You don't want to be at a low RPM with sustained boost for long, as it puts a lot of extra strain on the connecting rods. With the air resistance at those speeds, think of how long it takes you to climb the RPM ladder versus when you're in gears 1-4.
High RPM and lean conditions do cause damage, but so can low RPM and high boost conditions. The inertia of the motor spinning at higher RPM can actually help in terms of relieving rod tension. It seems when our motors go, it's typically the rods.
OP, I am running a forged stroker shortblock from Brenspeed. I think I paid about 3600 something + 170 or so in shipping. Then probably another 1-1.5k in misc stuff, a lot of which I wouldn't have had to replace if my motor didn't go. You can reuse all your cam/cam timing stuff (phasers, sprockets, followers etc) so long as the engine was running fine when you removed them. That stuff alone costs me an additional 800 I think.
High RPM and lean conditions do cause damage, but so can low RPM and high boost conditions. The inertia of the motor spinning at higher RPM can actually help in terms of relieving rod tension. It seems when our motors go, it's typically the rods.
OP, I am running a forged stroker shortblock from Brenspeed. I think I paid about 3600 something + 170 or so in shipping. Then probably another 1-1.5k in misc stuff, a lot of which I wouldn't have had to replace if my motor didn't go. You can reuse all your cam/cam timing stuff (phasers, sprockets, followers etc) so long as the engine was running fine when you removed them. That stuff alone costs me an additional 800 I think.
Last edited by siggyfreud; 07-07-2011 at 09:51 PM.
07-08-2011, 01:11 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 177
5th, being an overdrive gear, can tend to lug the engine a bit. You don't want to be at a low RPM with sustained boost for long, as it puts a lot of extra strain on the connecting rods. With the air resistance at those speeds, think of how long it takes you to climb the RPM ladder versus when you're in gears 1-4.
High RPM and lean conditions do cause damage, but so can low RPM and high boost conditions. The inertia of the motor spinning at higher RPM can actually help in terms of relieving rod tension. It seems when our motors go, it's typically the rods.
OP, I am running a forged stroker shortblock from Brenspeed. I think I paid about 3600 something + 170 or so in shipping. Then probably another 1-1.5k in misc stuff, a lot of which I wouldn't have had to replace if my motor didn't go. You can reuse all your cam/cam timing stuff (phasers, sprockets, followers etc) so long as the engine was running fine when you removed them. That stuff alone costs me an additional 800 I think.
High RPM and lean conditions do cause damage, but so can low RPM and high boost conditions. The inertia of the motor spinning at higher RPM can actually help in terms of relieving rod tension. It seems when our motors go, it's typically the rods.
OP, I am running a forged stroker shortblock from Brenspeed. I think I paid about 3600 something + 170 or so in shipping. Then probably another 1-1.5k in misc stuff, a lot of which I wouldn't have had to replace if my motor didn't go. You can reuse all your cam/cam timing stuff (phasers, sprockets, followers etc) so long as the engine was running fine when you removed them. That stuff alone costs me an additional 800 I think.
so with that said, it's not recommended to run top speed events if you have forced induction applications? with stock block or forged internals?
i.e whatever top speed i can get to while in 4th gear i should consider my top speed. I as might as well turn off my o/d permanently as there seems to be no use for it.
How do other high powered automobiles deal with this?
07-08-2011, 01:38 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 125
I’m no expert but I will throw my 2 cents in. Around 450 HP or so you may want to consider replacing the two piece driveshaft with a aluminum one piece, I have heard stories of guys almost ripping theirs in half with only 450 HP but I’m pretty sure they were on the SC hard all the time and they dragged at a local track.
Next rule of thumb, at around 500HP start thinking forged internals.
With the V3 HO it’s around the 450HP so maybe consider the drive shaft but not a requirement.
As far as clutches go I know plenty of people running SC with stock and no problems.
If you plan on taking this to the track a lot then I recommend a clutch (http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...gt-clutch.html) but if this is your daily driver I don’t see the need.
Next rule of thumb, at around 500HP start thinking forged internals.
With the V3 HO it’s around the 450HP so maybe consider the drive shaft but not a requirement.
As far as clutches go I know plenty of people running SC with stock and no problems.
If you plan on taking this to the track a lot then I recommend a clutch (http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...gt-clutch.html) but if this is your daily driver I don’t see the need.
07-08-2011, 01:46 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 6,130
at about 450 rwhp, my stock clutch was slipping with only a few months after the install.
the stock clutch will not hold over 400 rwhp for very long.
when doing a 1 piece DS, get the safety loop as well. you dont want that DS coming thru the floorboard and causing a disaster.
you can do high speed runs, just not in overdrive bc not only is it bad for your engine, but you wont go any faster either.
overdrive is for saving gas, not for speed.
the stock clutch will not hold over 400 rwhp for very long.
when doing a 1 piece DS, get the safety loop as well. you dont want that DS coming thru the floorboard and causing a disaster.
you can do high speed runs, just not in overdrive bc not only is it bad for your engine, but you wont go any faster either.
overdrive is for saving gas, not for speed.