ATTN all stock shifter guys - Please stop in
#1
ATTN all stock shifter guys - Please stop in
What is the throw length for the OEM shifter? If it's not too much trouble, could y'all measure it for me? Pictures? See below for an example.
I put a Hurst into my car at the 500 mile point, and today (6,050 miles)swapped that for the Tri-Ax. Long story short, the Tri-Ax feels like the OEM rowboat. It has a 3" throw from 1st to 2nd.
I put a Hurst into my car at the 500 mile point, and today (6,050 miles)swapped that for the Tri-Ax. Long story short, the Tri-Ax feels like the OEM rowboat. It has a 3" throw from 1st to 2nd.
Before I go all 1/2 cocked and pissed at Steeda, I'm wanting to compare the stocker vs. the Tri-Ax. I've already missed 2nd gear twice due to the long *** throw...at least it doesn't rattle like the Hurst does.
1st Gear
2nd Gear
EDIT: and yes, that is a Hurst shifter handle and ball on the Tri-Ax. The Tri-Ax was marketed as "using the factory ****", however the arm it came with is course threaded and doesn't work with my Bullitt ****. Luckily the bolt holes on the linkage line up with the Hurst arm.
EDIT #2: the arm is using the lower 2 holes. When I used the upper 2 holes, the leather boot kept getting pulled loose from the console.
1st Gear
2nd Gear
EDIT: and yes, that is a Hurst shifter handle and ball on the Tri-Ax. The Tri-Ax was marketed as "using the factory ****", however the arm it came with is course threaded and doesn't work with my Bullitt ****. Luckily the bolt holes on the linkage line up with the Hurst arm.
EDIT #2: the arm is using the lower 2 holes. When I used the upper 2 holes, the leather boot kept getting pulled loose from the console.
#5
+1
Would have gotten an MGW if I had the dough... IDK if the MGW shifters for t5s and t3650s are interchangeable so I figured Id spend the big bucks on a shifter after I wore out the t5 and got a 3650
At that point, the $50 saleen unit (Just a block that attatched to the stock shift linkage) will be a shiny nostalgic paperweight
IMO- if you really want to up your shift quality, throw some AMSOIL multi vehicle 100% synthetic ATF in too... youll notice a world of difference
Would have gotten an MGW if I had the dough... IDK if the MGW shifters for t5s and t3650s are interchangeable so I figured Id spend the big bucks on a shifter after I wore out the t5 and got a 3650
At that point, the $50 saleen unit (Just a block that attatched to the stock shift linkage) will be a shiny nostalgic paperweight
IMO- if you really want to up your shift quality, throw some AMSOIL multi vehicle 100% synthetic ATF in too... youll notice a world of difference
#6
Cause they were over $300 last year when I bought the Tri-Ax. The Steeda was $100 cheaper at the time. I think the Tri-Ax has been sitting in the garage for about 10 months
At this point I might just buy the MGW and swap it for the Tri-Ax in October. Just hate throwing more money after this
At this point I might just buy the MGW and swap it for the Tri-Ax in October. Just hate throwing more money after this
Last edited by Tylus; 08-03-2011 at 09:49 PM.
#9
Hurst is only 2 and a half inch travel...
But it makes all the difference.
Put your Hurst back on and use copper washers to take care of the rattling because at this point you're wasting too much dough on that ordeal.
But it makes all the difference.
Put your Hurst back on and use copper washers to take care of the rattling because at this point you're wasting too much dough on that ordeal.
#10
I get right around 4.1", measured at the lower rear edge of the bright insert that has the shift pattern on it. I'm guessing that's about where the center of a ball **** would be. Movement at the top of the **** would be somewhat greater.
The office internet connection refuses to display your pictures, so I took the measurement that was easier to hold the ruler still for.
Norm
The office internet connection refuses to display your pictures, so I took the measurement that was easier to hold the ruler still for.
Norm