Help...Steeda 555-8120 HD strut mount Camber Adjustment?
08-18-2011, 04:22 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 595
Help...Steeda 555-8120 HD strut mount Camber Adjustment?
Installing these soon to get rid of cupping in front from too much negative camber. I can't find anywhere the exact process for adjusting these for different camber.
Any help step by step would be appreciated. Installing them is no problem as I'm replacing the GT500 non-adjustables.
Thanks!
Any help step by step would be appreciated. Installing them is no problem as I'm replacing the GT500 non-adjustables.
Thanks!
08-18-2011, 06:52 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
There are two plates that can slide relative to each other when the nuts on the four mounting screws are loosened. There are a couple of points on each of the upper plates (which carry the strut shafts) that you can pry against through holes in the strut towers to move the strut. It's going to be pretty obvious what you need to do once you're putting it together.
If you're DIY'ing the camber adjustment, get set up on a area that you either know to be level or can make level by shimming under the low side tire(s). Otherwise you'll have to know what the side to side pavement slope is and correct your measurements accordingly.
Unless you have turn plates, you'll need to measure the camber that's there, unload the wheel so that you can adjust it without having to use a lot of force, roll the car back and forth (back to the original spots) and remeasure. Plan on having to run through this sequence at least twice and probably more. Then check and adjust toe, since changing camber will cause toe to shift slightly.
Norm
If you're DIY'ing the camber adjustment, get set up on a area that you either know to be level or can make level by shimming under the low side tire(s). Otherwise you'll have to know what the side to side pavement slope is and correct your measurements accordingly.
Unless you have turn plates, you'll need to measure the camber that's there, unload the wheel so that you can adjust it without having to use a lot of force, roll the car back and forth (back to the original spots) and remeasure. Plan on having to run through this sequence at least twice and probably more. Then check and adjust toe, since changing camber will cause toe to shift slightly.
Norm
08-19-2011, 06:21 AM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 595
There are two plates that can slide relative to each other when the nuts on the four mounting screws are loosened. There are a couple of points on each of the upper plates (which carry the strut shafts) that you can pry against through holes in the strut towers to move the strut. It's going to be pretty obvious what you need to do once you're putting it together.
If you're DIY'ing the camber adjustment, get set up on a area that you either know to be level or can make level by shimming under the low side tire(s). Otherwise you'll have to know what the side to side pavement slope is and correct your measurements accordingly.
Unless you have turn plates, you'll need to measure the camber that's there, unload the wheel so that you can adjust it without having to use a lot of force, roll the car back and forth (back to the original spots) and remeasure. Plan on having to run through this sequence at least twice and probably more. Then check and adjust toe, since changing camber will cause toe to shift slightly.
Norm
If you're DIY'ing the camber adjustment, get set up on a area that you either know to be level or can make level by shimming under the low side tire(s). Otherwise you'll have to know what the side to side pavement slope is and correct your measurements accordingly.
Unless you have turn plates, you'll need to measure the camber that's there, unload the wheel so that you can adjust it without having to use a lot of force, roll the car back and forth (back to the original spots) and remeasure. Plan on having to run through this sequence at least twice and probably more. Then check and adjust toe, since changing camber will cause toe to shift slightly.
Norm
08-19-2011, 08:58 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Less than -0.5° camber is pretty mild, given that the OE preferred setting is -0.75°. Unless your cornering is normally very mild as well, or unless you are set up primarily for the dragstrip you might find that at -0.35-ish° the tire wear shifting toward being a little heavier on the outer shoulders of the front tires instead.
Cupping can also indicate wear in the steering and suspension that allows the wheel/tire to flop around a little, and I would think that you'd have felt a shimmy. Anything from the hub bearings to the tierods and struts themselves are possible origins (I see that you have run up more than just a few miles on that car).
Norm
Cupping can also indicate wear in the steering and suspension that allows the wheel/tire to flop around a little, and I would think that you'd have felt a shimmy. Anything from the hub bearings to the tierods and struts themselves are possible origins (I see that you have run up more than just a few miles on that car).
Norm
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