hit 90k,... sway bars?
#11
What I did to my 2008 V6 convertible was to install a set of Roush Extreme springs with the KONI STR.T orange non adjustable shocks and struts. My car is lowered 1" in front and 2" in rear. Even without the rear sway bar my car handles so much better. The springs and Shocks/Struts did the trick.
#12
So I am finally deciding to slowly re-work the suspension. First order of business is sway bars. I have decided to go with the Eibach kit on AM.
But just wanted some opinions first.
1. My car atm does not have a rear sway bar, so how much difference will I realistically feel by going with Eibach? I drive my car alot and $300 is not pocket change for me since im a broke college student lol. Will I be happy with the purchase? Everyone seems to speak highly of this kit and the difference it makes.
2. After 90k have the rear shocks degraded in any way? My plan was to replace the struts and shocks before the year is over, but if they are not hurting after all these miles I may use the money for other suspension mods.
Just trying to spend the money in the order that will have the most impact first.
Thanks!
But just wanted some opinions first.
1. My car atm does not have a rear sway bar, so how much difference will I realistically feel by going with Eibach? I drive my car alot and $300 is not pocket change for me since im a broke college student lol. Will I be happy with the purchase? Everyone seems to speak highly of this kit and the difference it makes.
2. After 90k have the rear shocks degraded in any way? My plan was to replace the struts and shocks before the year is over, but if they are not hurting after all these miles I may use the money for other suspension mods.
Just trying to spend the money in the order that will have the most impact first.
Thanks!
If you're going to add much of a rear bar, plan on upgrading the front bar to something stiffer as well. Adding too much rear bar as the only mod will tend to loosen the handling a little . . . or maybe a lot. Tailhappiness when you're not expecting it is a pucker moment.
As far as adjustabilty goes - you may or may not take advantage of it very often.
Adjustable bars (like Sam's, which I happen to have) you would probably tinker with a little in the beginning until you find the settings you like best, and you'd leave them alone after that.
Adjustable struts/shocks might possibly be another matter, should the stiffness you prefer be too much for others, or if you compete with your car as well as just use it on the street. It takes less than five minutes to adjust all four once you've been through the drill a couple of times.
Norm
#13
I found that I didn't need an adjustable panhard bar. I lowered mine 1" in front and 2"s in rear. After measuring my rearend I was only 1/8 inch off center. That was surely within limits. I wonder how much you have to lower it before you get an offset that needs correcting?
#14
I found that I didn't need an adjustable panhard bar. I lowered mine 1" in front and 2"s in rear. After measuring my rearend I was only 1/8 inch off center. That was surely within limits. I wonder how much you have to lower it before you get an offset that needs correcting?
Within limits? I guess the glass is either half empty or half full. To me, if it's off center at all, it needs to be centered.
#15
The matter of finding where "center" is to within 1/8" might be tougher than it sounds. I don't think I'd trust the exterior sheetmetal to be that good.
Geometrically, there's 1/16" or so of lateral axle movement in bump and rebound, which sounds like trying to get any closer than that is a waste of time.
Norm
Geometrically, there's 1/16" or so of lateral axle movement in bump and rebound, which sounds like trying to get any closer than that is a waste of time.
Norm
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