rds1952

I installed SHR S197-805 next to my headlight switch assembly. I have attempted to write down the instructions. I suggest you read and get comfortable with SHR's instructions with tell how to mount the switch in the glove box. I tried to explain in simple detail how I installed the switch. Use at your own risk.

Installing SHR S197-805 Trunk Release Switch Kit
(next to the headlight switch assembly.)
Ref: SHR and/or AM websites for images of similar installations.
(Copy SHR’s instructions and familiarize yourself with them.
Please refer to them as needed.)

(If locating the switch in the glove box, use SHR’s instructions.)
This is simply an attempted guide and no warranties are given.
(This was performed on a 2007 Ford Mustang.)

Remove the trim panel that the headlight switch and the dash brightness control are mounted on. Carefully slip a small screwdriver between the dash and the trim panel, approximately ½” from the left end and then lightly pushed down until it tilts forward a little bit. Then do the same for the top right end. Then carefully tilt it out from dash and then pull out the bottom to remove it from the dash. You should be able to see how to remove the wiring harness for both switches by pushing in the catch on each on one side. On mine, I wanted to mount the switch, as close to center, vertically and horizontally from the brightness switch and the right end of the trim panel. Please note this location is slightly rounded, so the trunk switch will not fit perfectly flat. If you wish to have it close to perfectly flat, you may wish to mount it above the vertical center. If you look inside the assembly, you will see a preformed, almost square four sided box. Because I had never used a step drill before, I chose to take a pair of small and almost new(still sharp) wire clippers and cut the box, carefully breaking off pieces until I had it almost flat. I then drilled a pilot hole close to center. Now I used the step drill to cut my ¾” hole, cutting from the outside to the inside of the panel. This gave me a smooth cut on the outside and only a few places to de-burr on the inside. I straightened the wires and fed them thru the new hole (front to back). I gently inserted the trunk switch thru the hole and made sure the little car emblem was horizontal. When I didn’t find a place to my liking to attach the ground wire, I decided to use the same screw by the glove box listed in the SHR instructions. I needed extra wire for both wires due to the fact I was making a longer run. With the headlight switch still in my hand, I clipped the ground wire and used two butt connectors to add the necessary wire between the switch and the ring connector. I wanted to keep the ring connector, as is on the end. I used another butt connector on the power line to add the extra wire needed. I used electrical tape over the butt connectors for added security. I ran all my wire thru the hole in the dash and after making sure they were not tangled with anything behind, I remounted the headlight assembly back on the dash. I attached both wires to an existing group of wires running from the drivers left to passenger side with electric tape or zip ties. I left maybe 6 inches of extra wire between the switch and my first tie. This will allow the headlight switch trim panel to be removed, if it should ever need to in the future. Now that the switch is installed, the panel is reinstalled and the wires on the drivers side are clamped so they can’t be pulled loose, I needed to get my wires to the passenger side of the car. I happened to have a two foot piece of ¾ inch copper pipe. I used this just to make it easier to get the wires from the driver’s side to the passenger’s side. I ran both wires thru the pipe and slipped it between the dash and the center hump. From the passenger side, I held the wires and removed the copper pipe. I attached the ground wire to the screw behind the glove box. I pulled the bottom of the passenger side trim loose, where the Smart Junction Box is located. I ran the power wire behind the panel so that it would run along the bottom of the glove box and then straight down the side panel and under the corner of the panel. I removed the entire door sill, which is where the “Mustang” plate is located. I removed some of the tape that the factory had wrapped a bunch of wires with in a spot that seemed to allow me the most access to trying to locate the thin white wire with the pink stripe. Take the scotch-lok connector, put the white w/pink stripe wire thru the straight thru side of the connector and stick the power wire thru the open side. Take a pair of pliers and clamp down on the metal piece until the metal is even with the plastic and then close the cover using the pliers to make sure you get it closed completely. Test the switch. If it doesn’t work, check your ground connection and make sure the scotch-lok connector made contact with both wires. Retape wires and the scotch-lok connector.
Put the two carpet retainers back over the metal frame. Make sure the carpet is laying flat like it was when you started. Tap the door sill plate back into position.
Test switch again and the button on you key fob. If all is well, they both should work.
Zip tie any excess wire above glove box or over the transmission hump under the dash.

I hope this was a help. Nothing beats a try but a failure.

doode

well they can always fold down the rear seats to gain access to the trunk ....so it's pretty moot

157dB

Some mustang owners cant even figure out how to fold the seats downlittle lone a criminal in a haste to gain access to the trunk area. What theif wants to be head first into the rear seat area allowing himself to be prone to someone coming by and him/her being unaware of it.

157dB

Some mustang owners cant even figure out how to fold the seats down
little lone a criminal in a haste to gain access to
the trunk area. What theif wants to be head first
into the rear seat area allowing himself to be prone
to someone coming by and him/her being unaware of it?

HenryinFlorida

I have a convertible. I don't even want a trunk release button, but if I had to have one, it would be in the glove box panel. Locks are only there to keep honest people out. the real crooks will get in no matter.