U joint replacement
12-18-2017, 12:55 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Doha
Posts: 4
U joint replacement
Hi
i have 2010 gt,above 40km my car start vibtarte very badly i got to know smthing wrong with my drive shaft.my question is rather than changing whole shaft i want to replace only U joint,is it possible on 2010 Gt and whta is the part name.i tried on the internet i did not see this part for 2010 mustang
please help me with this
tks lot
i have 2010 gt,above 40km my car start vibtarte very badly i got to know smthing wrong with my drive shaft.my question is rather than changing whole shaft i want to replace only U joint,is it possible on 2010 Gt and whta is the part name.i tried on the internet i did not see this part for 2010 mustang
please help me with this
tks lot
12-18-2017, 08:54 AM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ft. Worth Tx
Posts: 601
parts for the 09' GT "should" fit as ford didn't change anything till 11' when they dropped the coyote motors in the GT. 2010 cars are reskinned around the 09' drivetrain. you will be looking for CV joints as there are no U joints per se used anymore. might be cheaper to find a used driveshaft on CL, ebay or someplace online. rockauto has a dorman 1 piece aluminum ds for 541$ if you want to go that route. good luck
12-18-2017, 05:01 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 86
If you go the driveshaft replacement route go with Shaftmasters for $550 free ship with the discount. I have it and works very well. They give a full satisfaction guarantee. However you should be able to replace just the universals. They are a common wear part.
http://shaftmasters.com/3mualdr1.html
http://shaftmasters.com/3mualdr1.html
12-18-2017, 11:23 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 849
parts for the 09' GT "should" fit as ford didn't change anything till 11' when they dropped the coyote motors in the GT. 2010 cars are reskinned around the 09' drivetrain. you will be looking for CV joints as there are no U joints per se used anymore. might be cheaper to find a used driveshaft on CL, ebay or someplace online. rockauto has a dorman 1 piece aluminum ds for 541$ if you want to go that route. good luck
The driveshaft must still utilize regular Cardans, or I'll be a monkey's uncle!
12-19-2017, 09:53 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ft. Worth Tx
Posts: 601
12-23-2017, 09:05 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Doha
Posts: 4
Hi agin
i have to replace drive shaft now there is no way to replce to parts. I was thinking to replce with one pice drive shaft. How ever if i do so do i need to get some extra parts or i can replace without any hussle.please share your knowldege.
tks
i have to replace drive shaft now there is no way to replce to parts. I was thinking to replce with one pice drive shaft. How ever if i do so do i need to get some extra parts or i can replace without any hussle.please share your knowldege.
tks
12-23-2017, 01:41 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 489
U joint replacement
Installation
1. Check your package to see that you have an adapter plate, and brand new metric hex bolts.
2. Get the car on jack stands level. Be sure to use all secure points on the frame. It also helps to have a creeper as well.
3. Remove the (6) 10mm bolts that hold the factory driveshaft onto the rear differential pinion flange.
4. Removed the (4) 12mm bolts that hold the driveshaft to the back of the transmission housing. (12 point) Do NOT attempt to use 6 point sockets as you will strip these bolts!!
5. Removed the tunnel brace. The brace is held on by 2 x 13mm bolts. You can easily turn this so it will come past your exhaust.
6. Remove the factory safety loop which is part of the mid joint CV-Axle style boot. (2x 13mm bolts) A long extension will be needed. There are washers in place between the chassis and the actual brace itself. Make sure to catch those and to be careful in case they fall as it could cause injury.
7. Once you have removed the factory joint safety loop you can then remove the factory anchor of a driveshaft starting at the rear of the car. Use a rubber mallet and tap a pry bar forward towards the transmission to help guide the driveshaft out of the rear seating.
8. Once it has come forward, you can rest it on the ground. Now make your way to the transmission flange. You will have to pry this off of the transmission flange as its snug. It won't require a lot of force, you will have to pull a bit or pry. Once you do the driveshaft will slide out of the back. Just wiggle it past the exhaust gently and take your time as it’s very heavy.
9. Grab the adapter plate that came with the DSS driveshaft. You will place this inside the factory pinion flange. Make sure to use a mallet to tap around and get it flush and snug inside without damage.
10. Use your thread locker blue and put a pea sized amount on the smaller length hex bolts and let it fill the threads. Use these bolts to tighten the adapter in place. Torque to specs in the manual, this can vary between cars.
11. Use your thread locker blue and put a pea sized amount on the smaller length hex bolts and let it fill the threads. Use these bolts to tighten the adapter in place. Torque to specs in the manual, this can vary between cars.
12. Now make sure you set the DSS driveshaft on the transmission flange and stand it up. Use the rubber mallet to tap on the differential pinion flange side and compress the boot. Tapping around in a circular motion as when you tap one side the other leans up, it may seem annoying but this will save you heartache because the boot is tight and brand new. If you skip this step there is a very high probability the driveshaft will be too long and it will not fit. As you can see in the picture the differential side is snug in place and the transmission flange will not fit. This is what WILL happen if you do not tap the rear CV boot side of the driveshaft.
13. Slide the DSS driveshaft in the way the factory shaft came out. Just be patient and careful not to damage anything and it will slide right in (thanks to the tapping on the CV axle boot to compress length).
14.
Again use thread locker for the transmission flange bolts, and the rear axle pinion flange bolts (which are the long hex bolts supplied with the DSS shaft). Slide the shaft over the retainer on the transmission flange to hold it in place, then make your way to the back and start putting in the bolts on the rear flange. If you compressed the boot a little too much, you can put one bolt through into the flange adapter to hold the shaft in place while you tap towards the rear of the car with the rubber mallet to EXTEND the shaft. It doesn't have to be perfect because once you torque the bolts down it will expand perfectly anyway. Torque all bolts to 50ft lbs as stated by DSS.
15. Now make your way back to the transmission flange and torque down all transmission flange 12 point bolts to factory specs from ford. If you don't have a socket you can use a wrench and if you need more leverage use 2 wrenches together.
16. Re-Install the tunnel brace the same way you removed it.
17. Once everything is installed, check over everything to make sure all is in order.
18. Now take it for a spin and feel the difference! Enjoy!!
1. Check your package to see that you have an adapter plate, and brand new metric hex bolts.
2. Get the car on jack stands level. Be sure to use all secure points on the frame. It also helps to have a creeper as well.
3. Remove the (6) 10mm bolts that hold the factory driveshaft onto the rear differential pinion flange.
4. Removed the (4) 12mm bolts that hold the driveshaft to the back of the transmission housing. (12 point) Do NOT attempt to use 6 point sockets as you will strip these bolts!!
5. Removed the tunnel brace. The brace is held on by 2 x 13mm bolts. You can easily turn this so it will come past your exhaust.
6. Remove the factory safety loop which is part of the mid joint CV-Axle style boot. (2x 13mm bolts) A long extension will be needed. There are washers in place between the chassis and the actual brace itself. Make sure to catch those and to be careful in case they fall as it could cause injury.
7. Once you have removed the factory joint safety loop you can then remove the factory anchor of a driveshaft starting at the rear of the car. Use a rubber mallet and tap a pry bar forward towards the transmission to help guide the driveshaft out of the rear seating.
8. Once it has come forward, you can rest it on the ground. Now make your way to the transmission flange. You will have to pry this off of the transmission flange as its snug. It won't require a lot of force, you will have to pull a bit or pry. Once you do the driveshaft will slide out of the back. Just wiggle it past the exhaust gently and take your time as it’s very heavy.
9. Grab the adapter plate that came with the DSS driveshaft. You will place this inside the factory pinion flange. Make sure to use a mallet to tap around and get it flush and snug inside without damage.
10. Use your thread locker blue and put a pea sized amount on the smaller length hex bolts and let it fill the threads. Use these bolts to tighten the adapter in place. Torque to specs in the manual, this can vary between cars.
11. Use your thread locker blue and put a pea sized amount on the smaller length hex bolts and let it fill the threads. Use these bolts to tighten the adapter in place. Torque to specs in the manual, this can vary between cars.
12. Now make sure you set the DSS driveshaft on the transmission flange and stand it up. Use the rubber mallet to tap on the differential pinion flange side and compress the boot. Tapping around in a circular motion as when you tap one side the other leans up, it may seem annoying but this will save you heartache because the boot is tight and brand new. If you skip this step there is a very high probability the driveshaft will be too long and it will not fit. As you can see in the picture the differential side is snug in place and the transmission flange will not fit. This is what WILL happen if you do not tap the rear CV boot side of the driveshaft.
13. Slide the DSS driveshaft in the way the factory shaft came out. Just be patient and careful not to damage anything and it will slide right in (thanks to the tapping on the CV axle boot to compress length).
14.
Again use thread locker for the transmission flange bolts, and the rear axle pinion flange bolts (which are the long hex bolts supplied with the DSS shaft). Slide the shaft over the retainer on the transmission flange to hold it in place, then make your way to the back and start putting in the bolts on the rear flange. If you compressed the boot a little too much, you can put one bolt through into the flange adapter to hold the shaft in place while you tap towards the rear of the car with the rubber mallet to EXTEND the shaft. It doesn't have to be perfect because once you torque the bolts down it will expand perfectly anyway. Torque all bolts to 50ft lbs as stated by DSS.
15. Now make your way back to the transmission flange and torque down all transmission flange 12 point bolts to factory specs from ford. If you don't have a socket you can use a wrench and if you need more leverage use 2 wrenches together.
16. Re-Install the tunnel brace the same way you removed it.
17. Once everything is installed, check over everything to make sure all is in order.
18. Now take it for a spin and feel the difference! Enjoy!!
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