1st oil change
#12
RE: 1st oil change
ORIGINAL: Soaring
You guys are wasting a lot of of oil and money. These engines are engineered to run the first 5K with the break in oil, then change it aftrer that.. The first oil change after 5K should be with a synthetic. Either Redline or Amsoil. Mobil one comes in third. Either use their filters or a Wix or Motorcraft.
You guys are wasting a lot of of oil and money. These engines are engineered to run the first 5K with the break in oil, then change it aftrer that.. The first oil change after 5K should be with a synthetic. Either Redline or Amsoil. Mobil one comes in third. Either use their filters or a Wix or Motorcraft.
#13
RE: 1st oil change
I'm an advocate of Redline. A friend of mine is hung up on Amsoil. We both have many miles on our various machines. Take a look at "Tufoil" at www.tufoil.com. Fella that built my custom BMW 4 banger recomended it. 128k of fast driving and some 15 sets of tires (258k and 26 sets of tires on the car's total life) and the engine runs like a top. AND, YOU KNOW! THE BMW 4 BANGER HAS TO BE DRIVEN A LOT HARDER THAN THE MUSTANG GT!!!!!!
I'm going to use 5k intervals. And, by the way, talked to Tufoil, I'm running a 10% mix along with Redline's ATF in my manual trans. and I think it shifts better.
I talked to the Ford parts guy. He said he had heard of "issues" when people complain about engine stufff and the car is not sporting a Ford filter. Was always a "Wix" fan, but, think I'll use Motocraft on my GT.
I'm going to use 5k intervals. And, by the way, talked to Tufoil, I'm running a 10% mix along with Redline's ATF in my manual trans. and I think it shifts better.
I talked to the Ford parts guy. He said he had heard of "issues" when people complain about engine stufff and the car is not sporting a Ford filter. Was always a "Wix" fan, but, think I'll use Motocraft on my GT.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
You guys are wasting a lot of of oil and money. These engines are engineered to run the first 5K with the break in oil, then change it aftrer that.. The first oil change after 5K should be with a synthetic. Either Redline or Amsoil. Mobil one comes in third. Either use their filters or a Wix or Motorcraft.
You guys are wasting a lot of of oil and money. These engines are engineered to run the first 5K with the break in oil, then change it aftrer that.. The first oil change after 5K should be with a synthetic. Either Redline or Amsoil. Mobil one comes in third. Either use their filters or a Wix or Motorcraft.
#14
RE: 1st oil change
ORIGINAL: Gloves
Well, it's just about 3000 miles on my '05 Mustang GT and I'm
wondering what you guys use for your oil?
Synthetic or the other kind?
Well, it's just about 3000 miles on my '05 Mustang GT and I'm
wondering what you guys use for your oil?
Synthetic or the other kind?
#16
RE: 1st oil change
ORIGINAL: algregory
I talked to the Ford parts guy. He said he had heard of "issues" when people complain about engine stufff and the car is not sporting a Ford filter.
I talked to the Ford parts guy. He said he had heard of "issues" when people complain about engine stufff and the car is not sporting a Ford filter.
the only way an oil filter, even the crappiest of filters would cause damage is if you never changed them!...
although I have heard from many many different sources that Fram's are not exactly top of the line...they still do the job just fine...i use them on my bike b/c they're $2.50 each and i've NEVER had a problem (along w/ mobil 1 car NOT motorcycle oil-but that's a different debate)
and as far as FORD PARTS guys telling you things...let me tell you a little story..100% true story of course...
i was at a Motorcycle dealer here in denver called "Fay Myers" to get an oil filter for my '03 CBR 600RR. At that time there really weren't many aftermarket options so I was FORCED to use the $13 oil filter that the dealer sells. I asked the parts guy if there were any aftermarket filters out for this bike yet and he told me that I shouldn't use anything but OE honda parts on my bike. When I asked why specifically the filter this is what he told me...and I quote: "because honda filters are specially formulated to removed aluminized and particulated metals from the interior of honda formed aluminum block motorcycle engines"... I said you have got to be "flippin" kidding me (only i didn't use the word 'flippin') I said do people really believe anything you people say with crap like that. I asked him if he had any idea who even made Honda's filter and bet him another filter that it wasn't Honda. He said it's a Honda filter made by honda. I said no it's not, it's a local filter manufacturer that honda probably pays $.03 a piece for so they can rape the rest of us at $12.99 each! Sure enough, on the side of the filter...and i mean printed in big white letters RIGHT ON THE SIDE OF THE FILTER it says "TYRO RITTO MFG"...well what do you know...
great story...i tell it to every bodyshop i'm in or mechanic i get to haggle with...
I will admit that I do use mobil 1 in my bike, and I will use it in my GT as well. I was sold on synthetic after a motorcycle oil change. 2500 miles on that oil change and the oil was clean and clear like it had been changed 200 miles before...so i just play it safe w/ those engines. But I do have (had-just sold) a 1994 Chevy S-10 pickup 2.2l 4cyl w/ 200k miles. Not an once of engine problems...changed the oil with Castrol GTX 10w30 since day 1 and never ever, not once had an engine problem.
Moral of the story...change your engine oil AND filter regularly and even with a moderat amount of abuse it'll last forever, and forget all this mamby-pamby crap about aftermarket parts and filter hurting your engine...afterall how many of us are dying to get intakes/exhausts/supercharges/remap the ECM and just go nuts?...my point exactly!
#18
RE: 1st oil change
It is important to stick with good filters. The range of quality varys, Fram being on the bottom in my book. I have cut open many filters in my racing carrier to look for particals, and the quality in some is poor. I no longer use fram, only motorcraft , wix, or a filter direct from the manufacturer of the vehicle i have.
Another thing i have learned in 40 years of racing (yep, 40, but not all sanctioned!!) is if you are going to question what the factory engineers designed, you had better take a vary hard look at what you are going to do, and what the outcome may be. The Ford engineers spent thousands of hours designing these motors and drivelines, and and a lot can be learned from that. I have a real hard time with people that want to outthink a full staff of engineers that have thier collective azzes on the line if something doesn't perform well! Trust the specifications that come in the manuals, they have all that research behind them.
Another thing i have learned in 40 years of racing (yep, 40, but not all sanctioned!!) is if you are going to question what the factory engineers designed, you had better take a vary hard look at what you are going to do, and what the outcome may be. The Ford engineers spent thousands of hours designing these motors and drivelines, and and a lot can be learned from that. I have a real hard time with people that want to outthink a full staff of engineers that have thier collective azzes on the line if something doesn't perform well! Trust the specifications that come in the manuals, they have all that research behind them.
#20
RE: 1st oil change
Gregsdart,
Nice post, but isnt it fair to say that the motor companies have to design a car so that it can run with middle of the road fluids?
For example, Ford recommends Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Engine apparently needs a little more than the regular motor oil. Thats fine.
BUT!!!! Doesn't the cost associated with Full Synthetic prevent them from "requiring" that in the car?
I guess I am trying to say this
Mis-guided thought A:
Motor Oil is motor oil. Cheaper the better.
Thought B:
It comes with brand X. Ford recommends brand X. I am using brand X.
Or Thought C:
Ford recommends brand X at a minimum, but if I want to spend the money for better it wont hurt anything.
I go by Thought C:
If money was no option, there is always something better.
Also, usually use Motorcraft filters in my cars. Picked up a Mobil 1 for my Mustangs second oil change. Your thoughts on their quality?
Same holds true in my opinion for add ons. Ford made a $23-$30000 car.
Everything could not have been 100% top of the line. That would turn into one of those multi million dollar super cars.
I look at upgrades and tweaks not as "what ford messed up on", but as "what Fords budget prevented in the first place"
Nice post, but isnt it fair to say that the motor companies have to design a car so that it can run with middle of the road fluids?
For example, Ford recommends Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Engine apparently needs a little more than the regular motor oil. Thats fine.
BUT!!!! Doesn't the cost associated with Full Synthetic prevent them from "requiring" that in the car?
I guess I am trying to say this
Mis-guided thought A:
Motor Oil is motor oil. Cheaper the better.
Thought B:
It comes with brand X. Ford recommends brand X. I am using brand X.
Or Thought C:
Ford recommends brand X at a minimum, but if I want to spend the money for better it wont hurt anything.
I go by Thought C:
If money was no option, there is always something better.
Also, usually use Motorcraft filters in my cars. Picked up a Mobil 1 for my Mustangs second oil change. Your thoughts on their quality?
Same holds true in my opinion for add ons. Ford made a $23-$30000 car.
Everything could not have been 100% top of the line. That would turn into one of those multi million dollar super cars.
I look at upgrades and tweaks not as "what ford messed up on", but as "what Fords budget prevented in the first place"
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