waykooljr

Here's some 1/8", about 3 mm.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/MM-Wh...ngs-p/1304.htm

BUT, you really should check the brake repair first, if those are the wheels that were on the car before the brake repair.

The thought I had is that maybe the wheels were put on the car after a lot of pad wear. Now, with the new pads, the caliper is spread further causing the wheel to hit the caliper.

I used 5 mm for my old wheels, the spokes hit the very first time I put them on. 5 mm gave ~3 mm of clearance.

Nyhm

Wow thanks, it is the correct bolt pattern thank you. I do my research before I buy anything to make sure it will work, I just bought these like 2 years ago I don't remember the specifications

Nyhm

Exactly, these wheels were put on when the pads had a lot of wear and it seems that getting a spacer is optimal answer. Thank you for the input and not insulting me

BigDinTexas

The blued part makes no sense to me... Even if the pads were either thick or thinner than the OEM, the bottom line is they cannot be force the wheel to sit further or closer to the rotor/caliper/whatever because those are bolted separate from the rotating assembly. Besides the caliper can only accomodate a maximum thickness of it's opening minus the thickness of the rotor... Still wouldn't cause the caliper to be in a different position causing rubbing of the rim... The moving piston is fully located within the dimensions of the caliper...

OP you need to take the rim off and examine everything immediately. It could be the caliper is not in the proper position or the bolt is not fully secured, causing movement of the caliper. In which case, the caliper could come off while driving. Lord help you if the caliper separates from the line while traveling 60mph down the highway and you lose all brake fluid and have no braking...

This should not wait.

Don

Nyhm

I already did this and everything is secured tightly. Upon more research after posting this, I have found that when you go up in rim size you may need spacers to accommodate.

gmoran1469

Hmm...

If this were true then wouldn't wear on brake pads cause a shift in the center point of the calipers and thusly when you applied the brakes shift the rotor toward the outside of the car?

I believe the entire caliper shifts so that equal pressure is applied from both sides of the caliper to the rotor.

If what I think is true then in fact new pads can cause the calipers to stick out further and thus rub the inside of the spokes.

Roy_R

Geezuz, I hope I don't have this problem...my rear wheels clears the caliper by approx 1mm

Nyhm

About the same here, it's only the fronts that are rubbing at the moment

waykooljr

Copied from http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=101&viewfil...sc%20Brake.pdf

The front disc brake system includes the brake caliper, the disc brake ads, the anchor plate and the brake disc. The brake caliper on 4.0L SOHC and 4.6L (3V) equipped vehicles is a dual piston floating design. The brake caliper is mounted to the anchor plate by the caliper guide bolts. The brake caliper slides, or floats, on the caliper guide bolts.

gmoran1469

This.

If it were solid your rotor would slowly toe either in or out (depending on if the caliper is mounted in front or back of the rotor) as your brake pads wore down.

In a 4-piston design there are 2 pistons on either side so the caliper is able to be solid mounted because the pistons keep the rotor centered because they apply equal pressure from both sides.

OP just needs to get some wheel spacers ASAP.