What do i need to replace slave cylinder?
#1
What do i need to replace slave cylinder?
I know i need to remove the tranny. I would like to do it myself and save about 450 bucks in labor. I have someone who said they will let me do it/and help me at his place, even if it took a couple weekends. I just want to know what I am getting myself into if i do this myself.
I have heard you had to remove the K-member, and also that you had to turn the tranny 45 degrees. Last time i did a tranny removal was on my 87 stang 2.3L and it was easy enough.
If anyone has any links on How To's. Video would be awesome!
And if anyone is in the Manchester NH area who knows what the heck he is doing and would wanna maybe help hit me up lol.
Any and all input would be appreciated.
On side note, I am also replacing the Flywheel with a RAM steel flywheel. And a FRPP pilot bearing is being installed. The clutch is new as of last summer. And I may as well do the rear main seal.
Not doing shifter for now.
I have heard you had to remove the K-member, and also that you had to turn the tranny 45 degrees. Last time i did a tranny removal was on my 87 stang 2.3L and it was easy enough.
If anyone has any links on How To's. Video would be awesome!
And if anyone is in the Manchester NH area who knows what the heck he is doing and would wanna maybe help hit me up lol.
Any and all input would be appreciated.
On side note, I am also replacing the Flywheel with a RAM steel flywheel. And a FRPP pilot bearing is being installed. The clutch is new as of last summer. And I may as well do the rear main seal.
Not doing shifter for now.
#2
If the rear main seal isn't leaking, then don't touch it. All you really need is the new slave and some hand tools. You don't need to remove the K member, just the transmission cross member. Do you have a transmission jack? It's a must IMO. This transmission is heavy.
Turning the transmission 45 degrees helps clear the transmission tunnel, but it's not absolutely necessary.
It's just a hassle on these cars. You have to unbolt the shifter, then the drive shaft, then the starter. Pay close attention when removing the transmission bolts. There are two which are longer than the others, be sure to put them back where they came out. Removing and connecting the hydraulic line is a pain. you need to reach up there with a long flat blade screw driver to pull the clip out. Have something ready to cap the hydraulic line. I used the tapered top of a royal purple gear oil bottle. Just push it on and put a piece of duct tape over it to hold it.
I've done it twice, on my back, it sucks.
Turning the transmission 45 degrees helps clear the transmission tunnel, but it's not absolutely necessary.
It's just a hassle on these cars. You have to unbolt the shifter, then the drive shaft, then the starter. Pay close attention when removing the transmission bolts. There are two which are longer than the others, be sure to put them back where they came out. Removing and connecting the hydraulic line is a pain. you need to reach up there with a long flat blade screw driver to pull the clip out. Have something ready to cap the hydraulic line. I used the tapered top of a royal purple gear oil bottle. Just push it on and put a piece of duct tape over it to hold it.
I've done it twice, on my back, it sucks.
#3
Ditto. This is by far the worst job I've done on my car. In my opinion, you can get by without the tranny jack, but only if you've got some upper body strength. It takes some finagling to get the input shaft clear of the pressure plate fingers, so the tranny jack was more in my way than anything.
#4
Yeah I didnt think it would be a fun job to do. But I will have plenty of time to do it and not have to rush so it might not seem so bad lol. I will probably only have a floor jack and not a tranny jack to work with, but I think i can manage. Thanks for the input guys!
#6
#8
Technically, if you are replacing the clutch, you could pull the transmission back far enough to unbolt the pressure plate and then lower both down together, but you'd have to do the same to get it back up there. This is only if you have a pd blower though. You could always remove the blower.
#9
Shouldn't be necessary unless you have a supercharger bolted to the top. The PD blowers hit the firewall when the transmission crossmember is removed. They don't allow the engine to tilt back enough to get the trans out.
Technically, if you are replacing the clutch, you could pull the transmission back far enough to unbolt the pressure plate and then lower both down together, but you'd have to do the same to get it back up there. This is only if you have a pd blower though. You could always remove the blower.
Technically, if you are replacing the clutch, you could pull the transmission back far enough to unbolt the pressure plate and then lower both down together, but you'd have to do the same to get it back up there. This is only if you have a pd blower though. You could always remove the blower.
#10
It might be possible to get it out by turning it 45 degrees. I didn't try that the first time and had all ready lowered the k member/engine cross member the second time, but it did seem easier by turning it 45 degrees.
Or you could cave in the firewall right behind the blower. The thought has occurred to me. If I every need to pull the blower, I'll be breaking out the mallet.
Or you could cave in the firewall right behind the blower. The thought has occurred to me. If I every need to pull the blower, I'll be breaking out the mallet.