GTRaider

I've been changing my oil and friends' and family for 40+ years and I tighten it as tight as I can get it with one hand. No strap wrench needed. Never had a problem - ever!

I did have one time when a brother-in-law asked me to change the oil in his pretty new '70 Monti Carlo. The strap wrench was a cheapie so it collapsed the side of the filter. The screw driver just tore the sheet metal. I called a buddy and we wound up cutting the rest of the filter off just leaving the top part screwed on the filter housing. Thankfully, we were able to use a hammer and punch on the holes to drive it off the housing. I don't recall if it was the OEM filter or one that he had replaced by someone else but it sure was a lesson to me to get a decent filter wrench and never over-tighten an oil filter.

modru2004

i personally like to do hand tight than half a turn with a filter wrench.

but there's something to be said for using the proper tools for a job....

id rather have it a little snug than too lose.

CPTCO

Always tighten by hand IMO.
And guys, put the screw drivers away and get yourself a gigantic set of channel locks. (This is coming from someone who has used screwdrivers, punches, heck even my own belt a few times.)

Nuke

Actually, I only had 2 occassions when I had a real issue and had to resort to destroying the filter to get it off in over 100's of oil changes. One was a Camaro I had when I had first started doing my own changes where the dealership had darn near welded it on (screwdriver thru the can did the trick) and on my present '07 Stang when I did the first oil change. Evidently, the factory must have had King Kong working that day (oil filter vise grips from hell did the trick, although the filter was barely distinguishable when I was done).

Art161

For those interested in what Motorcraft has to say, the instructions on the carton for the FL-820S filter indicate the gasket on the filter should be oiled, and the filter should be tightened 3/4 of a turn after the gasket seats. Add oil, start the engine and check for a leak. While Motorcraft doesn't say this specifically, if there's a leak at the filter, tighten it a bit more. When there is no longer a leak, turn the engine off and check the dipstick level. Again, Motorcraft doesn't say this, but wait five or ten minutes to make sure all the oil has drained into the pan.

Some folks add a quart less than the oil capacity, on the chance that not all of the old oil drained out. Then they add additional oil to bring the level to full on the dipstick. It's easier to add oil than to drain oil.

Oh, and when you remove the old filter, make sure that the gasket comes off with the filter. If the gasket, or pieces of it, are stuck to the engine, make sure you get the mating surface clean. Don't use a metal tool and gouge the mating surface.

baddog671

This doesn't really pertain to our Mustangs because for the most part Ford was reasonable on their filter locations with this model, but on many cars it is extremely difficult or impossible to use a strap wrench. There is another tool that I call a "claw" which can be very helpful. Coupled with a long-handle ratchet and extension, it gives you more leverage than a strap and can get into tight spots, (the ones that make you want to punch engineers!).



Pre-2002 Cavalier/Sunfire automatics are my favorite [sarcasm], anyone else have that pleasure?