Brakes pulse a bit under hard braking
#11
I've noticed this same problem, whenever i have to brake hard from higher speeds I get a "wobble" in the car.... which makes me lean towards rotors..... So I'm looking at some good slotted rotors here inthe future (Was thinking of those ones with the nifty design on AM) with a good set of HAWK (those are still good pads right?) non-ceramic pads
But Like others here, I would lean towards rotors over abs
But Like others here, I would lean towards rotors over abs
#12
Try "re-bedding" your pads. When the transfer film is not uniform, it is possible to feel a pulsing that can be mistaken for a warped rotor.
I'll suggest driving around during Step 4 without using the brakes at all if this is possible. Do NOT stop and set the parking brake while everything is still hot, as that could cause rotor warpage due to uneven cooling. Best to not set the P-brake any time that the brakes are hot.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
Using the brakes harder than necessary on at least a semi-regular basis may help avoid encountering this problem.
Norm
I'll suggest driving around during Step 4 without using the brakes at all if this is possible. Do NOT stop and set the parking brake while everything is still hot, as that could cause rotor warpage due to uneven cooling. Best to not set the P-brake any time that the brakes are hot.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
Originally Posted by hawkperformance.com
Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
- After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
- Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
- DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
- Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
- After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-14-2012 at 06:50 AM.
#13
I've noticed this same problem, whenever i have to brake hard from higher speeds I get a "wobble" in the car.... which makes me lean towards rotors..... So I'm looking at some good slotted rotors here inthe future (Was thinking of those ones with the nifty design on AM) with a good set of HAWK (those are still good pads right?) non-ceramic pads
Norm
#14
Years and years ago a magazine took one of those 3-5k brake kits, slapped it on a 5.0 and did some testing, in the real world it accomplished almost nothing. I asked a famous mustang tuner what brakes I should put on my stang and what type of pads.. His answer, pep boys.. What's on my car right now? Pep boys with stock rotors..
Brake upgrades unless you do road courses are a waste of money, period. There is no evidence they perform any better. Pedal feel aside, the actual stopping distances are virtually identical.
Plus they give you a life time warranty.
OP, inspect your brakes, if need the arises buy some pep boys gear... Don't get ripped off.
Brake upgrades unless you do road courses are a waste of money, period. There is no evidence they perform any better. Pedal feel aside, the actual stopping distances are virtually identical.
Plus they give you a life time warranty.
OP, inspect your brakes, if need the arises buy some pep boys gear... Don't get ripped off.
#17
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