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Brakes pulse a bit under hard braking

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Old 08-13-2012, 11:14 PM
  #11  
dlazrael
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I've noticed this same problem, whenever i have to brake hard from higher speeds I get a "wobble" in the car.... which makes me lean towards rotors..... So I'm looking at some good slotted rotors here inthe future (Was thinking of those ones with the nifty design on AM) with a good set of HAWK (those are still good pads right?) non-ceramic pads

But Like others here, I would lean towards rotors over abs
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:47 AM
  #12  
Norm Peterson
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Try "re-bedding" your pads. When the transfer film is not uniform, it is possible to feel a pulsing that can be mistaken for a warped rotor.

I'll suggest driving around during Step 4 without using the brakes at all if this is possible. Do NOT stop and set the parking brake while everything is still hot, as that could cause rotor warpage due to uneven cooling. Best to not set the P-brake any time that the brakes are hot.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php



Originally Posted by hawkperformance.com



Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
  1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
  2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
  3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
  4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
  5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Using the brakes harder than necessary on at least a semi-regular basis may help avoid encountering this problem.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-14-2012 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:01 AM
  #13  
Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by dlazrael
I've noticed this same problem, whenever i have to brake hard from higher speeds I get a "wobble" in the car.... which makes me lean towards rotors..... So I'm looking at some good slotted rotors here inthe future (Was thinking of those ones with the nifty design on AM) with a good set of HAWK (those are still good pads right?) non-ceramic pads
If it helps any, I've had very good results using Hawk HPS pads and ATE rotors. They work OK when cold, and get noticeably better once you've put some heat into them. I've never noticed any pulsing or wobbling, but then again I do use them pretty hard on a fairly regular basis (which also tends to keep me "current").


Norm
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:06 PM
  #14  
Fort LiquordaleGT
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Years and years ago a magazine took one of those 3-5k brake kits, slapped it on a 5.0 and did some testing, in the real world it accomplished almost nothing. I asked a famous mustang tuner what brakes I should put on my stang and what type of pads.. His answer, pep boys.. What's on my car right now? Pep boys with stock rotors..

Brake upgrades unless you do road courses are a waste of money, period. There is no evidence they perform any better. Pedal feel aside, the actual stopping distances are virtually identical.

Plus they give you a life time warranty.

OP, inspect your brakes, if need the arises buy some pep boys gear... Don't get ripped off.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:06 PM
  #15  
Derf00
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Having the rotors turned while ON the car should fix the problem. Had the same issue myself a while back and that's what it was.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:26 AM
  #16  
FastBreak
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If the rotors haven't been turned before, just have them turned. Depending on the car, sometimes this can be almost as expensive as buying new rotors, but I haven't checked GT rotor prices.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:22 AM
  #17  
wcgman
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Originally Posted by Derf00
Having the rotors turned while ON the car should fix the problem. Had the same issue myself a while back and that's what it was.
This can be done? I've never heard of this. Pretty cool!
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