GT500 UCA and LCAs
#11
I'm having my stock 3.31 gears replaced with 3.73s and will change the UCA and LCAs out at the same time to eliminate wheel hop. Considering my mods (bolt-ons allowing me to push ~11PSI), do you guys feel that B&M Control Arms would be sufficient? I would be getting the lowers and the upper (non-adjustable; I don't plan on lowering).
These are what I'm looking at and seem to be really reasonable as far as pricing:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/upper-...jandm2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html
I know I could buy more expensive ones, but I figure since I'm still putting down <600rwhp, these should be good.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
These are what I'm looking at and seem to be really reasonable as far as pricing:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/upper-...jandm2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html
I know I could buy more expensive ones, but I figure since I'm still putting down <600rwhp, these should be good.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
J&M definitely makes a great product. Due to issues with suspension design, your stock bushings are very soft, which can cause wheel hop during hard braking or acceleration. The J&M Rear Lower Control Arms offers a patented bushing design that eliminates wheel hop and improves straight line grip. Your stock upper control arm isn't stiff enough to support all the power your Mustang puts down, especially when you're launching off the line. The J&M Upper Control Arms will make sure you don't have that problem anymore !
The J&M Rear Control arms are perfect for any street or strip driven 'Stang. These arms are made to the same tolerances as their race performance arms to assure a perfect fit and long life. J&M also offers a life time warranty on they're bushings!
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions! Our Mustang Experts are here Monday-Friday from 9AM-9PM EST and Saturdays from 9AM-5:30PM EST. If you want to hit them up, their number is 866.727.1266. I can also have one of them call you directly.
- Dan
#12
#14
Also, is it necessary to get the UCA Mount upgrade?
Last edited by 04AZUREBLUEMACH1; 08-15-2012 at 12:07 PM.
#15
It's UPR but I can't find them on their site right now. If you look at this UCA, you'll see it's the billet spacers at the very bottom with the slight edge. Maybe email them or call them to see about ordering them. I think I paid about $7-$11 for them.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...nubber-05.html
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...nubber-05.html
#17
Thanks again for all the suggestions... here's what I'm getting (unless you guys see something incredibly wrong with my reasoning?):
BMR LCAs with Poly bushings
BMR non-adjustable UCA (don't plan on lowering)
BMR UCA Mount (improvement over stock and will eliminate the need for the spacers)
BMR LCAs with Poly bushings
BMR non-adjustable UCA (don't plan on lowering)
BMR UCA Mount (improvement over stock and will eliminate the need for the spacers)
#18
For most ordinary driving and for dealing with wheelhop your list looks OK.
It's only if/when you start driving through the corners a lot harder than ordinary average-driver hard that you'd be better off with LCAs that have a spherical joint of some sort in one end.
These wouldn't have to be all-metal rod ends/Heim joints, so take a look at LCAs with a Johnny Joint (Currie), Roto-Joint (UMI), or Del-Sphere (Spohn). Within the J&M line-up you need to be looking at their Extreme series rather than at the $100 level. Don't forget that 600 HP.
Norm
It's only if/when you start driving through the corners a lot harder than ordinary average-driver hard that you'd be better off with LCAs that have a spherical joint of some sort in one end.
These wouldn't have to be all-metal rod ends/Heim joints, so take a look at LCAs with a Johnny Joint (Currie), Roto-Joint (UMI), or Del-Sphere (Spohn). Within the J&M line-up you need to be looking at their Extreme series rather than at the $100 level. Don't forget that 600 HP.
Norm
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