Not another lowering thread! Sorry guys but I have a few Q's.
08-25-2012, 11:47 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Eureka, Mo
Posts: 4,355
So would a 1" drop in the front and only slightly more in the rear screw with everything else? Is it the general consensus that I should be able to throw in some conservative springs and a panhard rod and everything would be alright? Also, on the subject of LCA's, why in the world are the Steeda ones over three times as expensive as the J&M ones? Do the J&M ones just suck or is Steeda just way marked up? While we're talking about Steeda LCA's, what is the difference between their polyurethane bushings and their spherical bearings? Less noise? Longer lasting?
*FRPP P Springs because I didn't want a huge drop. I love the amount of drop I got. See sig pic, however small.
*Eibach shocks/struts. I got a good deal on them, otherwise I would have got STR.T's. Like said over and over, lowering springs will prematurely wear out your stock shocks/struts. Aftermarkets will be necessary at some point, but not necessarily right away.
*GT500 strut mounts. I got some used ones off Ebay for $30 shipped. Good deals are out there. Some have problems with the stock mounts popping, sometimes when stock, sometimes after lowering. This was a preventive measure.
*Adjustable panhard bar. Put it on a couple days before everything else. After the drop, I didn't even have to adjust it. BUT, since your axle is already off center, you'll need it.
*Lower control arms (Steeda, because they were used and a good deal) I did this for traction and traction alone. You will NOT need these due to lowering, but the difference in traction on launch is VERY noticeable. I just wanted to do suspension mods together, but at a slight drop like I did or you want, it's a non-issue.
Bumpsteer kits, upper control arms, lower control arms, etc. (The list can go on and on), are all well and good and great upgrades, but if your goal is to drop on the cheap, all this stuff can wait. If you go with a 1" drop or so, you won't need caster/camber plates. The GT500 strut mounts can be adjusted a little (So I read) but honestly, I'm not even sure that adjustment will be necessary.
FWIW, I spent $600 on everything. The only thing I bought new was the springs from AM, the shocks/struts were new from Ebay (Poorly written auction, got for cheap but were exactly what I needed), and everything else came from classifieds on forums.
Last edited by BleedinBlue; 08-25-2012 at 11:50 PM.
08-26-2012, 07:29 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,398
I went with the Steeda springs, because I didn't want a huge drop as well. I also went with the Steeda HD mounts and Koni Adjustable Yellows at the same time. I already had the Steeda Chromoly LCAs and I do not have the Relocation brackets so I'm not sure about my angle +/-
I will say that my wheel hop was present after the LCAs (purpose of getting them was to hopefully reduce wheel hop, but it did nothing of the sort. However after updating spring/strut combo the wheel hop was completely erased.
Some new issues is some kind of squeak noise when turning at low speeds, I'm guessing some bushing needs to be lubed up someplace.
I did not get a panhard bar and the rear alignment seems to be ok. It does appear that some days the wheels stick out on either side a little more than the other, but it could be my mind fooling me. It's not noticeable either way. Eventually I plan on doing a watts-link setup which is why I avoided the panhard route.
Update: Also, about price... I think I paid $720 for the struts/shocks. (Shox.com or something) And like $500ish for the Mounts/Springs (Brenspeed) So definitely not your cheapest combo, and the adjustable struts/shocks may be a little advanced for me but I liked having the option available. Supposedly Koni's are lifetime warranty.
I will say that my wheel hop was present after the LCAs (purpose of getting them was to hopefully reduce wheel hop, but it did nothing of the sort. However after updating spring/strut combo the wheel hop was completely erased.
Some new issues is some kind of squeak noise when turning at low speeds, I'm guessing some bushing needs to be lubed up someplace.
I did not get a panhard bar and the rear alignment seems to be ok. It does appear that some days the wheels stick out on either side a little more than the other, but it could be my mind fooling me. It's not noticeable either way. Eventually I plan on doing a watts-link setup which is why I avoided the panhard route.
Update: Also, about price... I think I paid $720 for the struts/shocks. (Shox.com or something) And like $500ish for the Mounts/Springs (Brenspeed) So definitely not your cheapest combo, and the adjustable struts/shocks may be a little advanced for me but I liked having the option available. Supposedly Koni's are lifetime warranty.
Last edited by Menace; 08-26-2012 at 07:37 AM.
08-26-2012, 05:24 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ca
Posts: 187
Well I found a kit with FRPP "p" springs, FRPP non-adjustable shocks/struts (let's face it, I'm not going to adjust them), and a pair of GT500 strut mounts for a hair over 700 brand new. Paired with a panhard bar, this might be exactly what I'm looking for...
If you're interested...http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...And-Spring-Kit
If you're interested...http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...And-Spring-Kit
08-26-2012, 08:00 PM
#14
Why would you not adjust them??? It's simple and fast, plus fun to set your car up just abit different. I did not want to spend the money either, the Koni STR were out of stk so I sprung for the Yellows based on Stranos advise. Best decision I could have made.
I did the Steeda Sport Springs with Koni yellows, and an adj UMI PHB. Added in the steeda mounts.
The rear hop signifcantly went away with those mods. It changed the whole driving experience with the Mustang. That was on OEM tires.
Justed added the J&M extreme LCA because I got a good deal....tightened up wheel hop a bit more, but did increase noise.
If your planning on keeping your Stang for awhile, don't cheap out on suspension parts.
I did the Steeda Sport Springs with Koni yellows, and an adj UMI PHB. Added in the steeda mounts.
The rear hop signifcantly went away with those mods. It changed the whole driving experience with the Mustang. That was on OEM tires.
Justed added the J&M extreme LCA because I got a good deal....tightened up wheel hop a bit more, but did increase noise.
If your planning on keeping your Stang for awhile, don't cheap out on suspension parts.
08-26-2012, 08:17 PM
#15
I have some 10" rears with 275's so my driver's side rear tire is already almost sticking out past the fender. I understand that the axle moves to the left when you lower the car so I figured I would need a panhard bar as well. Will this amount of a drop cause my stock LCA's to become useless or will they still be fine for now?
Stumbled across this in my search, any good or should I stick to a particular company? I usually see FRPP or Eibach recommendations for springs.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=182
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=182
08-26-2012, 08:56 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ca
Posts: 187
Why would you not adjust them??? It's simple and fast, plus fun to set your car up just abit different. I did not want to spend the money either, the Koni STR were out of stk so I sprung for the Yellows based on Stranos advise. Best decision I could have made.
I did the Steeda Sport Springs with Koni yellows, and an adj UMI PHB. Added in the steeda mounts.
The rear hop signifcantly went away with those mods. It changed the whole driving experience with the Mustang. That was on OEM tires.
Justed added the J&M extreme LCA because I got a good deal....tightened up wheel hop a bit more, but did increase noise.
If your planning on keeping your Stang for awhile, don't cheap out on suspension parts.
I did the Steeda Sport Springs with Koni yellows, and an adj UMI PHB. Added in the steeda mounts.
The rear hop signifcantly went away with those mods. It changed the whole driving experience with the Mustang. That was on OEM tires.
Justed added the J&M extreme LCA because I got a good deal....tightened up wheel hop a bit more, but did increase noise.
If your planning on keeping your Stang for awhile, don't cheap out on suspension parts.
08-26-2012, 09:01 PM
#17
How to fix Hamhole
What is best way to fix the issue you discuss below? Checked my car out and I have more than a desirible angle with the front of the LAC lower.
When a Mustang is lowered, the arm changes its mounting angle. The arm's attachment point on the rear axle stays fixed while the attachment point on the body (towards the front of the car) drops. If the rear is lowered an inch or more, the arm will be at a disadvantageous angle because it is now higher in the rear and no longer perfectly horizontal. When you accelerate, forces push forward and down on the body. Thanks to Newton's law of equal and opposite reactions, this has the effect of lifting the axle upwards as though balloons were attached to it. This leads to tail-hop and loss of traction.
When a Mustang is lowered, the arm changes its mounting angle. The arm's attachment point on the rear axle stays fixed while the attachment point on the body (towards the front of the car) drops. If the rear is lowered an inch or more, the arm will be at a disadvantageous angle because it is now higher in the rear and no longer perfectly horizontal. When you accelerate, forces push forward and down on the body. Thanks to Newton's law of equal and opposite reactions, this has the effect of lifting the axle upwards as though balloons were attached to it. This leads to tail-hop and loss of traction.
08-26-2012, 09:08 PM
#18
If your doing the work yourself you can change up things as you go with no extra cost, If your going to pay someone to do it for you, I would install the parts I think will deliver what I want them to do, and do it together.
As in this case, change the dampers with the springs. Not going to cost as much doing both at same time. Cause you will need to do both.
Don't take cheaping out as a negative, I would just not do it with the suspension. We all spend more or less money for different things.
As in this case, change the dampers with the springs. Not going to cost as much doing both at same time. Cause you will need to do both.
Don't take cheaping out as a negative, I would just not do it with the suspension. We all spend more or less money for different things.
08-26-2012, 10:42 PM
#19
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 131
A set of relocation brackets cures the problem described below when, after lowering, the LCA is angled so that the rear end "hops" during sudden acceleration:
A set of these Lakewood jobbers did the trick on my ride:
These were welded to my car and provided several points of adjustment. My car uses a slightly aggressive configuration.
A set of these Lakewood jobbers did the trick on my ride:
These were welded to my car and provided several points of adjustment. My car uses a slightly aggressive configuration.
Last edited by Hamhole; 08-26-2012 at 10:47 PM.
08-26-2012, 11:11 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ca
Posts: 187
Well I'm being swayed towards adjustable shocks/struts by the tokico d-specs being on a super sale on AM this month. They would only be about 130 more than the FRPP non-adjustables and at that price I might be willing to pick them up. Anyone here run them with FRPP P springs? Also, what do I need to do about camber after a 1" drop?