Subwoofer Problem... I Think I Goofed Up
09-07-2012, 07:18 AM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,744
Subwoofer Problem... I Think I Goofed Up
Well, before I accidentally broke an RCA cable, I was using my aftermarket subs and amps daily. Then, being both busy and lazy, I waited 5 months to fix the cable. During that time, something was causing the car to just pop and the PCM would reset. I finally figured out that it was insulation around the sub and amp fuse (dumb to have them all on one fuse, right?) - it happened about 5 times before I figured out where the insulation was worn. Since I wasn't using my subs or amps, I figured I didn't need to worry.
Jump forward to this morning. I finally replaced the RCA cable, plug my iPod in, load up my favorite song... And the subs aren't coming on. NBD I figured. After 10 minutes of trouble shooting, nothing. Finally I check both my amps, and neither of them appear to be getting power. I checked the switches and I had them all in the proper positions. Still nothing.
So now I'm sitting here praying I didn't fry $1000 worth of hard earned money, and 3 days of work.
Anyone have any ideas? Think maybe the fuse blew? If it isn't blown, what else could be the problem? Thanks!
Jump forward to this morning. I finally replaced the RCA cable, plug my iPod in, load up my favorite song... And the subs aren't coming on. NBD I figured. After 10 minutes of trouble shooting, nothing. Finally I check both my amps, and neither of them appear to be getting power. I checked the switches and I had them all in the proper positions. Still nothing.
So now I'm sitting here praying I didn't fry $1000 worth of hard earned money, and 3 days of work.
Anyone have any ideas? Think maybe the fuse blew? If it isn't blown, what else could be the problem? Thanks!
09-07-2012, 09:01 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
BTW, there isn't a fuse for the sub.. just the amp unless you're talking about 2 different amps.
But yeah, if the power wire was bare then it might have made contact with ground somewhere and popped the fuse. You might need a multimeter to check it. Make sure you have fixed whatever bare wires you saw first. Also make sure that wherever the power wire passes through the body hasn't rubbed itself bare before you power things back up.
good luck
But yeah, if the power wire was bare then it might have made contact with ground somewhere and popped the fuse. You might need a multimeter to check it. Make sure you have fixed whatever bare wires you saw first. Also make sure that wherever the power wire passes through the body hasn't rubbed itself bare before you power things back up.
good luck
09-07-2012, 03:02 PM
#8
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Don't let those in-line fuses fool you. If it's the older style glass style fuse that you have by the battery it is possible one of the ends under the metal caps are cracked at the connection point so you aren't getting enough power to sub. They solder the fusible link to each of the metal caps. If the solder joint has weakend, the fuse will get flakey. THe more current you draw the hotter the fuse gets so with a cracked connection point it opens the circuit as heat expands it.
I had an issue like that years ago, had me chasing my tail as sometimes the system would work great, other times it would flake out. I finally checked voltage AND current draw in the power line. That's how I found that beyond a certain amount of current, the fuse would cut the power. Replaced it, all was well. When I inspected the old fuse with a flashlight you could see where the solder point was cracking and the burns caused from sparking.
I had an issue like that years ago, had me chasing my tail as sometimes the system would work great, other times it would flake out. I finally checked voltage AND current draw in the power line. That's how I found that beyond a certain amount of current, the fuse would cut the power. Replaced it, all was well. When I inspected the old fuse with a flashlight you could see where the solder point was cracking and the burns caused from sparking.
09-07-2012, 03:07 PM
#9
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
Don't let those in-line fuses fool you. If it's the older style glass style fuse that you have by the battery it is possible one of the ends under the metal caps are cracked at the connection point so you aren't getting enough power to sub. They solder the fusible link to each of the metal caps. If the solder joint has weakend, the fuse will get flakey. THe more current you draw the hotter the fuse gets so with a cracked connection point it opens the circuit as heat expands it.
I had an issue like that years ago, had me chasing my tail as sometimes the system would work great, other times it would flake out. I finally checked voltage AND current draw in the power line. That's how I found that beyond a certain amount of current, the fuse would cut the power. Replaced it, all was well. When I inspected the old fuse with a flashlight you could see where the solder point was cracking and the burns caused from sparking.
I had an issue like that years ago, had me chasing my tail as sometimes the system would work great, other times it would flake out. I finally checked voltage AND current draw in the power line. That's how I found that beyond a certain amount of current, the fuse would cut the power. Replaced it, all was well. When I inspected the old fuse with a flashlight you could see where the solder point was cracking and the burns caused from sparking.