GT Katie

Thanks for your reply S19. Does that mean that if I delete my cats, & put in the adapters with the O2 sensors in place, that my check engine light won't come on?? I don't have to pass I & M, but if the adapters would keep the engine light off it would save me $$$$ getting a tune to keep the light off.
Also, if just moving the O2 sensors back a little from the exhaust flow fools the ECM, would taking them out & plugging the holes, (but leaving the O2 sensors connected electrically), do the same thing as using the adapters, or would they be sensing too much pure oxy & tell the ECM that the engine was running too lean & trigger the engine light that way?
This is a bone stock '08 GT except for a BBK CAI & Basanni mufflers if that makes any difference.

S197GT07

If you go O/R, and use the non-foulers (some have said they had to stack 2 sets of them), you CAN fool the ECU to thinking the cats are there, and pass inspection.

You can't just plug the holes and remove the O2's from the exhaust. The ECU would get a cluster f*** of different readings from the air moving over the sensor at different speeds.

Also remember, the Rear O2's are really stupid. Their sole purpose in life is to detect flow. To much = cat problem. Too little = cat problem. They don't monitor A/F like the fronts do.

Milspec

Very good points made here. The non-foulers are huge on the Dodge Ram forums (I have a Ram too)...many of the Ram guys will have the double set of non-foulers and some will also stuff a little steel wool into the second non-fouler....

Our inspection is due in January, so I'll test a few methods to determine what works...will report.

GT Katie

Thanks, that's some good info. I don't have to pass inspection, I just don't want the ck engine light coming on when I go to new pipes & delete the cats. I could just take the bulb out but then it wouldn't be there to tell me if there were other engine problems that were going on. Is the part that I highlighted in red for sure? I always thought the rears were there to protect the cats & they sensed excess hydrocarbons, CO, & oxides of nitrogen that made it through the cat(s) to see if they were working properly. ie; if an injector was stuck open & flooded a cat with fuel, the cat wouldn't be able to burn it all & would show excess HC to the rear O2 sensor..

If the rears are that stupid then this is going to be easy ha ha

S197GT07

I mean, with the possibility of stacking 1 or 2, and you can drill them out, or put steel wool in there, you can find the correct amount of flow to make them think the cat is still there. I didn't bother and just went for the dyno tune.

All the rears do is detect flow. The fronts are responsible for telling the ECU "LEAN!" or "RICH!" or "DUMP FUEL TO COOL CATS!".

Rears are dumb

TomKat

yea before computerization you could pay em off like a dirty cop but now its impossible damn near be safe and throw the stock on

Milspec

Yeah, if you know the right people, you can pull the ol' "plug into a different vehicle" trick...I think I have a place that might do that, but I'd prefer to try to pass it as legit as possible before resulting to bribing and plugging into another vehicle.

GT Katie

Thanks S19 !! That makes it a win-win for me. I don't have to pay $400 for a tune & I can do the foulers myself.

S197GT07

Yea, its just going to take some playing around to figure out the right combo.

Juan Lopez

I dunno why so many people love AM. For every good part they sell at market price (that you can find cheaper if you look) they sell 5 pieces of crap that they advertise as "performance" parts. I do alot of reading now whenever I find something on their site that I want, and that research usually leads to not wanting the part, or finding it cheaper.

They sold me a DiabloSport Predator, and when I tried to get my 3 free tunes, they said "sorry, we only support the trinity, and only on post '05 applications. Why sell something you don't support?

AM can PM me too if they want, but I dunno what they would say to make me happy with them.