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2010GT, These brakes are the worst I've ever used.

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:03 PM
  #11  
moosestang
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How much did a 1992 300zx TT cost new in 92?
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:47 PM
  #12  
Entaille
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Originally Posted by George_ORH
Thanks guys.

I know it's not a "race car" but I suppose I just expect that if they are going to make a car "go", Then They should also make it "stop", haha.

I guess I look at 3 things in a sports car.
Go Fast
Turn Like a champ
Stop.

I know a Honda Civic isn't going to do this, But then again they only cost 18k new (decently equiped, haha).

The 300Zx was somewhat lighter but then again the brakes were designed for the car, haha. Also back in 1992, That Z was considered HEAVY. I should appoligize for bringing up another car... I will just focus on what I have and what I want it to do!


I will try some decent pads and flush the lines with some quality fluid and see how that goes.

Thanks guys, Have a great weekend!
if you're doing that you might as well swap to stainless steel brake lines too - those rubber hoses are no good for high performance driving.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:59 PM
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TRexGAWD
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Originally Posted by moosestang
How much did a 1992 300zx TT cost new in 92?
Pretty pricey.. Somewhere around mid to high 30s.. Like 37 or something.. I know they were as much as Supras and more than RX7s around that time..
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:53 PM
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2011scgt
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this is why you install slotted rotors...these cars are built for the avg. buyer this is why there are after market companies to build to your driving style..
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:33 PM
  #15  
PNYXPRESS
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Originally Posted by 2011scgt
this is why you install slotted rotors...these cars are built for the avg. buyer this is why there are after market companies to build to your driving style..
Slotted rotors are strictly for looks for most people as they dont understand the real reason for using them as they arent much good if you dont have a good set of pads to grab ahold of them, fluid to take the heat, and brake lines that can stand up to the pressure and heat.
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:16 AM
  #16  
Fort LiquordaleGT
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Oil, steel lines, pads won't help, waste of money. Try the Ford racing brake cooling kit, it's not that expensive and should help your real problem, heat.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-b...-kit-1112.html
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:01 AM
  #17  
George_ORH
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Cost was around 30k for a non tubro tbar coupe.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:04 AM
  #18  
George_ORH
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You could get a TTZ for around $35 I believe, I bought used of course.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:12 AM
  #19  
JThor
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2+ year old fluid would be enough to cause the fade. I like the ATE Racing fluid http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...cat=BrakeFluid It's a bargain at $15 per quart. It comes in two colors Blue and gold. So when you change out the fluid, you go to the opposite color and can easily see when the old fluid is gone.

Hawk HPS pads are a popular option. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...eet+brake+pads

The Performance Friction pads that are OE on the 2008-09 Bullitt and 2010 GT Track Pack cars are really good too. That's what I have on mine, and they seem to hold up pretty well to the occasional HP event.

When I was doing HPDE events a lot in my Porsche, I had two sets of pads - one for the street and one for the track. I would switch out the pads for the track days and put the street pads in the rest of the time. Worked really well.
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:18 AM
  #20  
TheDivaDanielle
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You can easily put hawk pads on it, and get the brembo brakes used for 700 something. Add in brake fluid with a higher boiling point and you should have all the braking your little heart can want.
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