Still Hunting for that Popping Noise (help please)
#1
Still Hunting for that Popping Noise (help please)
So I posted a thread a couple days ago on hearing a popping/creaking/rubbing noise when I turn my car from a stop.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...t-a-noise.html
I got some good feedback, and I was told the problem is most likely a bearing at the top of the strut. I just disassembled the strut assembly and inspected the bearing (at least what I think is) and I can't seem to find anything that would be making this noise. I saw a pivot point in the swing arm (I believe that is what it's called) that looks like it could possibly be making that noise, but apart from a couple of rubber pieces taken out of it everything seems so be well greased and nothing is dried out.
I'm posting a few pictures of everything, please tell me if anything looks out of the ordinary or seems like it would be a problem (besides being really dirty) Thanks!
(!!!!!EDIT!!!!!!-----Fixed this problem, view page 2-----!!!!!EDIT!!!!!!)
(The strut cap) Seems to be spinning freely, sprayed WD-40 on it anyways.
(The pivot point I had referred to)
(Everything behind the dust shield)
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...t-a-noise.html
I got some good feedback, and I was told the problem is most likely a bearing at the top of the strut. I just disassembled the strut assembly and inspected the bearing (at least what I think is) and I can't seem to find anything that would be making this noise. I saw a pivot point in the swing arm (I believe that is what it's called) that looks like it could possibly be making that noise, but apart from a couple of rubber pieces taken out of it everything seems so be well greased and nothing is dried out.
I'm posting a few pictures of everything, please tell me if anything looks out of the ordinary or seems like it would be a problem (besides being really dirty) Thanks!
(!!!!!EDIT!!!!!!-----Fixed this problem, view page 2-----!!!!!EDIT!!!!!!)
(The strut cap) Seems to be spinning freely, sprayed WD-40 on it anyways.
(The pivot point I had referred to)
(Everything behind the dust shield)
Last edited by whosniffedme; 09-23-2012 at 02:20 AM. Reason: Fixed problem
#2
That's your tie-rod end. It has a protective boot that will most likely crack/tear but as long as its greased then it should be fine. One, you should get some of those push-pins for the fender lining just to alleviate that as being a problem. Might try WD40ing the bushings on the front swaybar as well, couldn't hurt...
I think there is a problem with the strut mount (what you call cap) in general on these cars, that causes popping; etc. Might look into upgrading to the GT500 strut mounts (economical) or the Steeda HD mounts (much more pricey). If you can't otherwise find the issue.
I think there is a problem with the strut mount (what you call cap) in general on these cars, that causes popping; etc. Might look into upgrading to the GT500 strut mounts (economical) or the Steeda HD mounts (much more pricey). If you can't otherwise find the issue.
#3
Well, after I finish paying off my tuition I'll finally have enough saved up to drop the full Roush suspension on it. Right now I'm just looking to keep everything sound until I do so. I wish they would have just kept putting grease points on these cars. I mean Jesus Christ Ford, have you not gotten enough of my money already?
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
With the tie-rod end boot being totally screwed it needs to be replaced (the whole tie-rod end) because dirt and other crud gets down in there and destroys the thing. Also it looks like your lower ball joint has puked all of it's lubricants out onto the lower control arm.
I would pick a new tie-rod end up from your local Auto parts place and replace it. Just count how many turns it takes to remove and then install the new one the same number of turns. You should still get the alignment checked but that will get it close.
I would pick a new tie-rod end up from your local Auto parts place and replace it. Just count how many turns it takes to remove and then install the new one the same number of turns. You should still get the alignment checked but that will get it close.
#5
With the tie-rod end boot being totally screwed it needs to be replaced (the whole tie-rod end) because dirt and other crud gets down in there and destroys the thing. Also it looks like your lower ball joint has puked all of it's lubricants out onto the lower control arm.
I would pick a new tie-rod end up from your local Auto parts place and replace it. Just count how many turns it takes to remove and then install the new one the same number of turns. You should still get the alignment checked but that will get it close.
I would pick a new tie-rod end up from your local Auto parts place and replace it. Just count how many turns it takes to remove and then install the new one the same number of turns. You should still get the alignment checked but that will get it close.
#7
I'm looking into it. If it's the camber plates, I'll replace those. If it's the tie rods, I'll replace those. But if neither need to be replaced, I'd rather save my money for other things.
Does anyone know if GT/CS's come with factory installed lowering springs? If such a thing exists?
Does anyone know if GT/CS's come with factory installed lowering springs? If such a thing exists?
#9
Ok then they aren't, good to know. After I get home from work, I'm going to grease everything as well as I can and reassemble it and see if I can better isolate the noise if it still exists. If not, I'm going to use my friend's air lift so I can figure out exactly where it's coming from.
#10
Okay, so I disassembled everything and cleaned/greased every component. There were a couple of spots where rocks and dirt got built up on the strut, so I got all that off and everything looks/works better.
No more noise as of yet, we'll see how it holds up in the next couple of days. I still might replace those tie rods though...
No more noise as of yet, we'll see how it holds up in the next couple of days. I still might replace those tie rods though...